Daves1940Buick56S

I finally got back to it yesterday. Tried the drill and pry method first - no go! So I got out the hole saw and punched a 1" hole, but offset to the side. I thought I could then pry the remainder out. I used a huge pry bar with adjustable hook. Still no go! I could bend the plug a little but that's all. So I got out the 1 3/4" hole saw and removed the remainder. This all took a couple of hours. I am using a expandable rubber replacement for now so no worries about some "imperfections" on the seat. I then used a adaptation of Jeff's method. I got a standard hose fitting with a 3/8" barb on it at Home depot, along with a few feet of 1/4" copper tubing. I connected them together using a short piece of rubber fuel line and now have a flush tool like Jeff's but with no welding. I then "de-scunged" the block using this tool. Got a LOT of crud out. Now for the fun part. Using a power washer I got a bunch more out, Also reverse flushed the radiator with it. Then I did a flow test on the radiator. Looks like about 4 to 5 secs to empty. Hopefully this will be OK. So now I am buttoning back up and will try a stress test tomorrow. Cheers, Dave

My 40 Super actually has 2 Hi Beam indicators, the bottom one illuminating the "Bright Lights" words and a top one illuminating a small red dot. Cheers, Dave

Thanks! And a 1960s one would make complete sense as well. IIRC I remember that type from when I was a kid in the 50s - 60s. Cheers, Dave

Good ideas from all! Will let you know - I am going out of town this coming weekend so it'll be the weekend after that before I get back to it. Thanks, Dave

Well, as I said in another post, I spent the weekend attacking the cooling system. Pulled the thermostat and was surprised to see it appears to be original (according to posters on another thread) or very old anyway. Tested it and it basically flunked. Opened the block drain, only got a small trickle/dripping, so I assume the back of the block is garmed. Flushed system to a fare-thee-well and buttoned back up without the thermostat for a test run. Was able to idle over 30 minutes before it got over 180 - much better than before. Now I am working to open up 2 plugs and flush the block itself which should help. I also flushed the heater separately and it seems OK. So after that is done I have a decision to make - go ahead and pull pump and radiator (which means I have to have it back together and driveable by 16 Sept) or leave as is and nurse it along until next Spring. I am a bit nervous about pulling the pump - the lower hose appears to be original or very old - the cloth covered kind. I can just slice it off with a razor but I would like to take off intact if possible. Also the bypass hose and clamp assy look to be untouched. And the bolts on the fan/pulley appear to be rusted on. Is it possible to unbolt the pump and take off the pump and fan as a unit? The bypass on the exhaust manifold is frozen. I have been applying penetrating oil but no go so far. I think (and hope) it is in the closed (heat off) position, I will post a picture in a new thread with this question. More news as it occurs... Cheers, Dave

Thanks to all! Jeff - yeah, Rockville to Dayton is a bit far. But I have my neighbor's power washer and was going to try flushing thru the plugs (if this one comes out OK I will open one up towards the front as well). Cheers, Dave

When I was flushing the system this weekend, I was surprised when I saw this thermostat (248 on a 1940 Super 56S). I haven't seen this type in years. Anyone hazard a guess as to the age? BTW, I tested it and it flunked. Started to open between 190 and 200 and only opened a fraction. Could be some of my overheating cause. Cheers, Dave

To Mike's questions: I can get a straight drill on it. The problem with the hammer and drift method is getting enough power on it. I can probably drill a large hole in it and use a pry bar. Thanks, Dave

Mike: OK, here it is. You can see where I was wailing on it with a drift. Cheers, Dave

All: As part of the massive flush project I am doing this weekend to try to alleviate my overheating problem, I wanted to take out the rear expansion (freeze) plug to see if I could get some of the garbage out. Unfortunately, it seems stuck tighter than a sparrow's you-know-what. Do I apply a weapon of mass destruction or what? Any tips? Thanks, Dave

Thanks to all!! I ordered the Penrite stuff from Restoration in Escondido, should be here this week. Now I have another issue that I will warrant a new thread. Dave

Thanks Mike!

Thanks Jon! I will take a look...

All: I finished my overhaul on the WDO 440S carb and it has made a world of difference *except* the new accel pump plunger is stubborn on depression stroke. I tried working the plunger up/down a bit in the cylinder to see if I could "set in" the skirt (I assume neoprene?). I also put lubriplate on the flat part where it goes thru the cover. This all worked for a while but now it's sluggish again. You can open the throttle all the way and the pull spring is fully extended but the plunger only moves a little. Anybody seen this before and what was the best solution? Thanks, Dave

The 90 weight oil just dripping out is what I figured would happen. I will look for the ones you mentioned. Thanks Grant! BTW, what is the "proper" oil to use in the rear end and tranny? I notice the manual spec's 90 Hypoid for the rear. Is the current 75W-90 that I see a suitable sub?

All: What is the proper lube for the steering box? The shop manual says "grease" but what kind is best? Or is it really 90 weight oil? Thanks, Dave

Jon Yeah, although it was not pleasant. I ended up using 2 small wooden dowels, about 1/8 in diam. I placed the ring using my long 4" needle nose pliers, making sure 1 side engaged the groove, then held that side in place (gently) with 1 dowel and used the other to push the other side over and into the groove as well. Once it popped in I could "massage" it with 1 dowel to make sure it was equally well in the groove. Then I went and had a beer. Cheers, Dave

Larry Thanks for the encouragement. Yes, I can do a lot of the work but some things I will have to send out. For example, I may need to get a rebuilt trans and I will pay someone else to pull the rear end and replace tranny and clutch. I did that myself on my old 53 when I was 20 but not now. Cheers, Dave

Dave, I will take some pix when I get the hood back on after I get the radiator fixed. Hopefully in a few weeks. I will try to come by on Saturday. What time does it start? I only live a few blocks away from MC. Unfortunately I won't be able to bring the '40 until after I get the cooling done - it would not make it up there without a boilover. Cheers, Dave

Never mind, figured it out. Cheers, Dave

All, I am finishing up on the overhaul of the WDO-440S carb from my 40 56S - and I must say it was the filthiest carb I've seen, about 1/4" of sludge in the bowl. Anyhow, I am trying to reinstall the retaining spring clip over the check ball at the bottom of the accel pump cylinder and I am having a devil's time. Any good tricks here? Cheers, Dave

Thanks Grant!

Yeah I have a lot of play in mine as well. Since I have been busy with other things on the car I haven't had time to look at it properly but I have moved the steering wheel and confirmed that the pitman is not moving. So either a loose nut on the box to pitman, or worn splines as Grant suggested, or....worn box. Urggh. Cheers, Dave

Thanks joser! After reading your post and advice from others I am going to stay away from a dash pull if at all possible. Cheers, Dave

John and Terry, thanks for the info. I will see if I can fit the 3EH - better and cheaper. 56SSuperSport, I need this info as well. Post your message in a new thread with a descriptive title and more folks will see it then they will as a reply to my battery thread. Thanks, Dave