Daves1940Buick56S
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Posts posted by Daves1940Buick56S
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Very cool Morgan!
Cheers, Dave
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https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/buick/model-c/2185381.html
$11000 This car was up on CL last fall for $15k. He says C on the model. Anyhow does not look bad for the money, at least by my uneducated eye.
Cheers, Dave
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IOW == in other words. Sorry, old text-speak. Anyhow, you advice is just what I needed. Thanks!
Cheers, Dave
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Thanks both! Yeah, the glass company I have been using, I think Sanders?, does this. I will keep the "date" of 9 37.
I assume the lower left/right is from the viewpoint of inside the car? IOW in the outside corners?
Cheers, Dave
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I am getting ready to order the glass windshields for my car. Since this car is way ahead of "driver" I want to at least try to stay authentic.
So I would like to stay with the original glass logos. You can see from the attachments that the side glass is (likely) original with a small "9 37" down in the lower right corner.
1. For you 37/38 owners, is this logo correct?
2. Does the windshield have them? Mine seem to have nothing, or at least I cannot find them with all of the delam. If they should have them where on the windshield do they go?
Sorry for the horrible image quality, didn't have time today to dig out the good camera.
Thanks, Dave
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Looking for a good used 1110801 distributor for my 1938 Century. Housing, bushings and shaft in reasonable condition. Doesn't need the vac advance.
Cheers, Dave
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Belle is bellisima! Very nice car!
Cheers, Dave
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OK, I see that the defroster setup is the same brown color so I will repaint mine. I found a place locally to get it sandblasted, also a rechromer who does small parts. He does nickel also so we will see what's what when I take it in. I will paint the body in the black wrinkle finish and then overcoat with the brown. I should be able to get the process started next week, will update with pics as I go.
Cheers, Dave
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Got 'em off. I just put a large flat blade screwdriver behind the felt washer at the slot and they came right off.
Now, the light switch. Considering it's difficult to get a finger in there, how do you get the switch shaft released?
Cheers, Dave
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Again as part of the dash removal, I pulled the map light. The bottom appears to be covered in some kind of aluminum paint that is flaking off. This isn't original, is it? Also, the letters and stripes are painted in a dark gold paint. Isn't it supposed to be black?
Cheers, Dave
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I am in the process of pulling the dash, and I am a bit stuck on the radio knobs. On Larry D's 1937 radio they very wisely used set screws, on my '38 all I see is one small slot. I have tried feeling around in there with a small screwdriver to see if there is a small catch or something, but no joy. Anyone know about this?
Cheers, Dave
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Thanks! No rush....
Cheers, Dave
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My 1938 heater is missing the cover and defrost fan for some reason. I managed to pick up another one with the defroster. It has been repainted I think. So I am going to get it blasted and redo.
1. What is the original color and texture? Isn't it brown crackle? The one I have is a reddish gray hammertone.
2. Is the center decorative piece chrome? Mine is worn and it looks like the base metal is copper colored.
Thanks, Dave
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Bloo is correct. That is the way it is on my '38. The beams cross. Follow the procedure in the Shop Manual to check the aim.
Cheers, Dave
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I think there is also a 6A or 10A version that may give you a bit more margin. If the only problem you are trying to solve is the 12V window motors this would be the way to go.
Cheers, Dave
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OK got it loose! Lefty loosey indeed!
Cheers, Dave
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That wasn't my point. If by "future" you mean 30 or 40 years I will agree. Anything less than 20, ain't gonna happen.
Cheers, Dave
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This post is not political, but every time discussion of energy starts it seems that it goes there. This is straight science and economics and hopefully some will find it useful.
It seems that about every 5 minutes I come across some story or post exclaiming that in a few short years, all traditional cars will be banned and we all be driving electric, possibly self-driving vehicles. The timeframe ranges from “soon,” 5 years, or 10 years. This is presented as inevitable.
What nonsense.
First, most reporters/journalists are very light on scientific knowledge. Considering they profess to be lovers of science they sure don’t seem to understand it very well. The debate about whether shifting over to an all-electric US will actually reduce energy usage or reduce greenhouse gas emissions is fraught with so many variables that a full airing is too long for a posting here.
But the next time someone starts telling you that all cars, including our vintage ones, will be banned from the road “soon,” have them consider just these two things:
First, there are currently over 255 million registered vehicles in the US. About 3 million are heavy haulers (no one has a clue what to do with these in an all-electric US) and several million more are commercial medium and light haulage. Electric cars are currently less than 1 million. So let’s assume about 200 million passenger vehicles. (These figures are from NHTSA, DOT, etc.)
The government cannot just ban these vehicles. That would be considered a taking and the lawsuits would last for 20 years. So the owners would have to be paid the value of the vehicle for making it worthless. The current average for used vehicle sales is $20k, so let’s assume enough of the 200 million are junkers to lower it to $15k. 200 million times $15k is….$3 trillion dollars. That’s trillion with a “T.” The entire US yearly budget is $3.8 trillion. Obviously this would have to be done slowly over a decade or two, and with the likely big increases in healthcare costs on the horizon the better answer might be “never.”
Second, the US consumes 140 billion gallons of gasoline per year according to the EIA. The equivalent energy minus increased efficiencies will be dumped onto the grid. Can it handle it? Getting to the bottom of this actually required some digging to get to an apples to apples comparison to get to this answer. Since we are looking at the energy delta on the grid and not total energy consumed, we can ignore the energy required to produce that gasoline. Likewise we can ignore inefficiencies in power generation (but not transmission) since we are looking at generating capacity, or total output.
In looking at automobile efficiency the total chain must be looked at, from engine thru transmission and other rolling losses. The best figure I could find is an efficiency of about 0.21 with the fleet mpg of about 25 mpg. Electric vehicles also have to take into account losses in charging and battery losses due to internal resistance, as well as gains from regenerative braking. Even though we hear about efficiencies of 90%, that is for the motor only. Going from plug to wheels it is about 0.68, best case.
To use apples to apples kWh will be used as the unit of energy. Knowing that a gallon of gas contains about 34 kWh, so turning the crank, 140 billion gallons * 34 kWh/gal * (0.21/0.68) = 1.5 trillion kWh…again with a “T.” Considering that the current total US grid consumption is 4 trillion kWh according to the EIA it can be seen that the grid will have to be upgraded at considerable cost to handle the 35% additional required kWh. And this doesn’t even consider the diesel fuel required for commercial vehicles. Also keep in mind that currently only about 8% of electricity produced is from wind and solar. So to support this extra energy it will require quite a few traditional electric plants to take up the slack.
And what will the cost be? Again, going back to the EIA, the cost of constructing the plants alone will be at least $300 billion, and then the cost of adding new transmission lines and distribution will have to be added in as well. In the end the cost may well be close to $1 trillion, especially since absolutely no one wants a power plant built in their backyard and the lawsuits will drag it out and increase the cost.
So next time someone starts blathering that your vintage car will soon be an undriveable museum piece remind them of these things and ask: where is the money going to come from?
Cheers, Dave
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Hmmm, I have a full ignition test bed on my bench, I will check.
Cheers, Dave
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The capacitor for the coil and alternator should be about 1 ufd. I would get a voltage rating of at least 50 vdc to be on the safe side. The resistor should be abt 5k ohms, but if you are already using R plugs and resistor wires leave it be. Do you have a lot of static interference that goes with the rpm?
Cheers, Dave
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Actually, the paint is beautiful. It is black and the shine is miles deep. I just wanted to know in order to preserve it like it is.
Cheers, Dave
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I know my 1938 66S has had a repaint, likely in the 1980s but not sure of the timeframe. How can you tell what type of paint was used? I assumed it was some kind of single stage enamel but a friend looking at it swore it was lacquer. Is there a good way of telling?
Cheers, Dave
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OK, brain lock on my part. I will pick up some long curved nose pliers tomorrow and try it.
Cheers, Dave
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Yup, I tried this today as an experiment. Worked great! It may not get all of the ethanol out, but if it lowers the % from 10 to 1 or 2 percent I am happy. I will start "production" this Spring in 4 gallon batches. At least it will cover the local touring. And if they shove E15 down our throats, a real possibility here in MD, we have a solution. As it were.
Cheers, Dave
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Buick Battery
in Buick - Pre War
Posted
Fleet Farm!
https://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/master-disconnect-switch/0000000243308?Ntt=battery switch
I have one in each of my cars, along with 00 cable. Works real good!
So back in college (the first time!) in the very early 1970s I was helping a buddy swap out his Mopar alternator. For some reason the + terminals on those alternators were exposed during that period and I (stupidly!) did not disconnect the battery. My metal flexible wristwatch band made contact with that terminal and ground! I just saw a small spark and the next thing I knew I was jumping around trying to get my watch off! I got 2nd degree burns on my wrist and 3 of the links were welded together. Lesson learned.
Cheers, Dave