Daves1940Buick56S
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Posts posted by Daves1940Buick56S
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23 hours ago, Morgan Wright said:
AMC was the last company to equip cars with that &^&%*% vacuum wiper. We had a '65 Rambler with that horrible fluke of American engineering.
Yup, I had one too in High School. Piece of junk, and so were the wipers! At a stop light a cloud of smoke would envelop the car. Kept the mosquitoes away, though.
Cheers, Dave
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While Peter is imbibing, perhaps I can shed a bit more light. Matt - the rear carb definitely has an idle circuit, including 2 needle valves and 2 low speed jets. His flapper assembly has no flapper. It is missing. I was afraid of this when I saw the counterweight was missing. He is working to get one from Greg Johnson. But your suggestion to plug the rear fuel line is good, and maybe an even better idea is to remove the rear carb completely and plug the manifold opening, like they did in WW2 to try to save on gas.
Neil, we know they are in parallel, but are assuming that one of the carbs dumping fuel would likely affect the closer cylinders more. In theory anyhow lol!
Cheers, Dave
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I think Peter is OK for now on the exhaust bypass. Both weights were in the correct 2 o'clock position.
The 2 longer tubes in your pic are the low speed jets. They are spec'd to a 65 drill. This is at the lower pinched part. You also have the bypass and economizer ports to check in the carb body, the spec should be on the sheets I sent you.
So what position is the damper valve in, does it move freely?
Cheers, Dave
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5 hours ago, avgwarhawk said:
This is not going to end well!
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I have an air flow meter that I use to balance the SU's on my TR3. I can make up an adapter for the larger carb. Good suggestion.
After some mixture tuning, his vac gauge at idle shows readings close to 20 but periodically dropping 2 or 3 inches. Definitely missing or very weak combustion. Cylinder balance test showed very little RPM drop on rear 4 cylinders. This matches with what his plugs are showing. He is going to see what the damper position is. It looks right now like the rear carb is dumping in way too much fuel. Carbs are Carter WCDs by the way.
Cheers, Dave
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You are welcome! One thing I noticed was the lack of the counterweight on the rear carb damper and according to the '42 shop manual it should be there. So that may be part of the problem.
Cheers, Dave
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All good advice. I use 0.017 go, 0.018 no go on the valves, this is what the Shop Manual suggests when doing the old run-it-and-then-pull-off-the-valve-cover-real-quick-before-it-cools routine. On the vac gauge, the manifold connection should be tapped for 1/8 MIP unless someone has messed with it. It will probably have an elbow which goes to the vacuum steel line. If you run into problems PM me, I think you are only a few miles away.
Cheers, Dave
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My 1938 66s has that. I replaced with the SS braided hose. As I recall (I did it last summer) the hose went from the master to a tee junction. One line went from the tee to the front and one to the back. Lying on my back it was an execrable job to remove/replace the master. I have to get it relined and I am paying someone to do the R/R on a lift!
Cheers, Dave
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On 4/19/2019 at 7:39 AM, Jamison39 said:
Thanks! I am located in Cincinnati Ohio.
If you need any transmission parts Northwest Transmission is only about 30 miles from you. Go out 32 to US 62 near Winchester.
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I saw it on ebay and put a link in Buy/Sell
https://www.ebay.com/itm/153459778686?ul_noapp=true
Looks pretty good for $20k
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You gotta love the overheating one. Problem: gauge goes into red area in summer with AC. Solution: replace gauge with new gauge without the red area.
Cheers, Dave
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We def wanna see pics when you get it!
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Yeah, it's the same on mine. I am hesitant to do that right yet since once I start messing with the seals I am committed to swapping out the windshields, which is next on the list. I am waiting for the new glass to be delivered.
But high on the sides the "tabs" aren't under the seal. And on mine there is what looks like old brown gunk smeared on the edges and under the dash. I have tried inserting some thin plastic scrapers to loosen it but no go as yet. I was wondering if this gunk goes all the way long the top. If so it's going to be painful.
I think I am going to trademark Old Brown GunkTM
Cheers, Dave
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I am in the process of removing my dash. It has several "unauthorized" holes and I have a replacement. But it doesn't seem to want to make the trip. Garnish molding is out, screws are out, radio and anything else I can see obstructing it are out. It seems loose on the bottom but the top side ain't budging. There seems to be a lot of sealant in the dash top area and I am wondering if this has, in effect, glued it in place? I am wary of destroying it in the removal process in case there is some fatal flaw with the replacement that I am not noticing.
Cheers, Dave
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Another suggestion, get one of the LED Black Light flashlights. Use it at night or in a dark garage. The antifreeze flouresces so it can be easily seen. Just a note, though: so does oil! So make sure you know what you are looking at...
Cheers, Dave
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Perhaps a dumb question, but did you replace the bypass hose?
Cheers, Dave
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Not sure if this one has been up before, but I like it!
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11 hours ago, Elpad said:
Location is Wheaton, IL. About 107 Front St looking East. The Tin Shop is now a Subway. Many of these buildings still exist. Is that a 1947 or 1948?
Cheers, Dave
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How about a caption to the photo with names, left to right?
Cheers, Dave
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Look at it as a "feature!" If the thermo fails the overheating of the engine will let you know right away!
Cheers, Dave
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OK, nothing like what you want, so will do from scratch:
1. Drain coolant and loosen and remove fan belt
2. Remove upper rad hose and pull off water pump end of lower rad hose
3. Pull heater hoses off of pump and bypass
4. Remove thermostat cover and thermostat
5. Unbolt bypass (2 bolts, one long, one short)
6. Loosen upper clamp on bypass hose (connects to water pump)
7. Remove bypass using twisting action to break from hose
8. Cover front of radiator with a piece of cardboard to protect it and your knuckles
9. Loosen long bolt in center area of pump
10. There are 2 bolts on the pump to block connection. Remove the inner bolt and loosen the outer one
11. Holding pump by fan to keep it from flopping about, remove long center bolt (you many have to spin fan to clear)
12. Remove pump to block outer bolt, and carefully maneuver pump/fan assembly to top of engine and out
Cheers, Dave
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Yes! I have done it several times on my 1940 56s. I think I have replied on this before, gimme a few minutes to go find it.
Cheers, Dave
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Bernie is right. Go to your Batteries Plus store and pick up a 20 ah 12v gel cell, or a couple of them and put in parallel. Easier to deal with than a lead acid, although you will have to charge a bit more often.
Cheers, Dave
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TorqueTube and Index, where to find?
in Buick - Pre War
Posted
There was a lot of other stuff on there as well such as copies of the Radio manuals and lots of other documentation. Did you bring that over as well? And is the Index for the Torque Tube there also?
Cheers, Dave