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bhead1968

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About bhead1968

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 12/13/1968
  1. Thank you! That did the trick! I had taken out the headlight switch as i had to fix some wiring anyway, I put it back on and just vigorously pressed the dimmer switch several times and boom... my headlights turned on! Ha! I was actually thinking of changing the dimmer switch anyway, but i don't have to know. Again thank you very much! #untilthewheelsfalloff
  2. Gents thanks for the responses! Going to check that and report back!
  3. Hello! I have a '55 4 dr Special and have an issue. My headlights stop working but everything else does. I know the lamps themselves are good as they were just working but believe my headlight switch is the culprit. How can I be sure? Also it seems there isn't anyone remanufacturing those and all I see are those universal ones. Thanks for any help
  4. I went with an AC Delco. It works great. When it craps out, i'm going to get it rebuilt. Just google AC Delco Electric fuel pump.
  5. Elec pump ending up being the issue, i inadvertently got a 4si pump and didnt consider the loss of pressure by the time it got to the carb. changed to a 8-9 psi that puts about 5-6 pounds at the carb. Took her on a nice long ride and ran like a champ. Thanks for all the advice...now on to the other things on the car....
  6. It is mounted next to the tank.. but being 4psi, I have a strange feeling that at the carb it may be too low and thus causing my issues. Once i do the fuel pressure test, i determine where the gremlin lies. thanks.
  7. I replaced the old electric fuel pump the previous owner installed with a Carter Fuel pump. Seeing the Manuel says 4-5psi from pump to carb I figured the Carter 4psi should be fine.. this is whats happening: Car starts and purrs..i drive about town, stop and go traffic good power over all, etc.. but after a while it was begin to sputter, as if it was starving for fuel? I've gotten to the point where if i apply the gas pedal, it bogs completely. I basically have to keep my foot off the gas and let it idle home at 20mph. THEN, if i sit and wait a bit, it'll then run fine again until it begins
  8. PACKICK you can go here too to fully identify your car if it helps... 55 Buick Identification Mr. McDonald sorry about Canada...at least they try.
  9. go here...your's was definitely the 53,565 one built... 55 Buick Identification
  10. great.. just making sure... and thanks again everyone!.. I'll definitely have more questions as i dive into this car.
  11. Gents, thanks for quick response. Now, if i go by the Buick Shop Manual it talks of turning the screw either clockwise or counter to expand and contract the shoes...but looking at it up close (the back of the drum) and the tools you showed me, it seems i just slip that in the notch (star nut) and crank up and down..correct? If so, then is up expanding or contracting and vise-versa for down? i can just use a flat head at this point..just want to make sure i'm doing it correctly..thanks
  12. What is the special tool needed to adjust the brake pads from outside the drum? I know its the star nut, but what can i use if i don't have this special tool? I can always just take off the tire/drum and adjust that way but I wanted to know about the above. thanks much..
  13. I agree, go with the numbers. I just went and checked mine, just to see and my sequence # is higher that 903 (mine is 1297) and I have my Oil fill caps on my valve covers. Your car is nearly 60 years old, is your engine original to the car? Again, I'd go by the numbers since that would represent the correct body config. my worthless 2cts
  14. Chuck, thanks for that info. I definitely have my work cut out for me..but absolutely looking forward to it. Hopefully as i dig more in my vehicle, something may just be waiting to be discovered. Thanks again!
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