Bud Tierney
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Posts posted by Bud Tierney
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Honestly can't recall if Ted said anything about having to replace flywheel...he did have a machine shop of sorts, so could've machined new bolt circles in a replecement, and he did build at least one neat Hot Rod type everyone called "a Ted Lee Special"., out of inventory...
On the light flywheel question: I always assumed Hudson used the light flywheel to boost performance of their 3x5---don't know if light flywheels used on other Hudson or any other stock engines...hot rodders were always shaving their flywheels...
Don't recall any feeling of reduced performance, as if a heavier flywheel had been adapted, not that we drove this to its performance limits---in those days We were mainly interested in babying it along to keep it going with a minimum of expense...longest trips it took were 60+ mile distances between towns (southern NM)...
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Yes, Virginia (as the old editor once said) there really was a two piece brake pedal (Well, the editor was talking about Santa Claus, but this was beginn9ing to sound like a myth, too)...
Always nice to be reassured aging isn't taking one completely round the bend...
Got this question on the HET non-member forum, more by accident than design, and Geoff Clark was kind enough to post verification there; sorry, never learned to link...
Confusion was partly my own fault for using inappropriate technical terms for parts involved...reminds me of Churchill: "We're two nations...separated by a common language..."...
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JON: Progress (lack of) report---so near, and yet so far...
Jake Jacobs posted the whole 117 page 36 Hudson/Terraplane parts book under my two piece brake pedal post on smokstak...
Brake pedal assembly and various parts thereof are listed and illus on illus BZ...but there wasn't any BZ with the parts book...
However, as a teaser, there is the whole hyd system illus on illus "C", page 12, which includes a line sketch of the brake pedal; that sketch shows what COULD be a "joint" in top and bottom parts, or could just be a representation of a forged area of a one piece pedal...
Sorry, never learned to link, but if you'd care to look at the illus and list of brake pedal assembly parts (pgs 16, 17)would appreciate your opinion
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JON: Just found your post re' the HET Club site; didn't know you get get on their forum without joining...
My own curiosity piqued now, will try to get both questions onto HET forum
.Many thxx!!! Bud
(Sigh) Looks like no luck; the street sign pix were so dark on my set sign might've said "Bridge Out" and I wouldn't've seen it---the other kept me going in circles over choosing payment type for only limited online access...
I either need a new set or an eye transplant, or both...
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I can't recall why we let Ted try to fit a dry clutch, but I would guess it was a combination of $$$ for new Hudson parts and Ted's offer of no expense to us to let him play with it...
You have to remember that these were just worn out old cars, not nice units, and that we were chronically short of $$$ in those days, keeping them going with baling wire and friction tape...duct tape would've been a luxury if we'd known it existed...not that things've improved that much in that department...
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Rummaging around in memory (Two Piece Brake Pedal???) remembered clutch went bad on that 36 6cyl...'
Local ex hot rodder who owned local wrecking yard,, where we bought our parts and an occasional car, sympathized, but didn't want to replace wet clutch, instead advised he'd often wondered if dry clutch could be fitted... we said 'be our guest'...
He did, in fact, fit a dry clutch, I assume out of his wrecking yard inventory, but swore he'd never do another, giving specific reasons I can't recall now except that fitting washers for spacing was extremely frustrating, if that makes sense....the dry clutch worked well as long as car ran....
Was fitting a dry clutch highly unusual, or was this often done as cars aged???
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JON: I'm as mystified as you...I can see NO advantage to a two piece setup. On the contrary, I only see the danger of disconnection, as happened to me...and as best as I recall, the joint fitted so beautifully it seemed factory...
I assume the lower end of the under the floorboards piece was on a rotating joint with a link to the master cylinder, which must've been along the frame...
Dying of curiosity now; hopefully an owner of a 36 6cyl will advise us of what he/she finds...
Talking about this jogged my memory on another poor design feature on a generally very nice if plain car (mine was probably the lowest price model)...
The front axle had two torque arms that ran from the axle, parallel to the frame back to each side of the frame, approx under the driver area, used 35-39 per my Motor (nice illus in my 35-46 issue)..
These arms had holes the tie rod ran thru...
In winter, is slushy times, holes would pack with snow/slush. If it refroze overnight, steering was frozen next morning...
I was less intelligent then; never thought about greasing tie rod or something like that.
The 34 had axleflex, which seemed to work well; don't recall what the 35 had.......
OOPS forgot to mention brake pedal perfectly matched clutch pedal, so if cobbled either used factory pedal or changed both to match??? Curiouser and curiouser, as Alice used to say...
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Sorry about late reply; don't usually follow individual ,makes...
If still looking for starter you may be asking too limited a question...
Electricals almost always acquired from vendors; your starter may've been used on other makes---try posting m'f'r of starter and starter model # from tag on starter...
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Not surprised at your questioning reply; I'll try to be a little clearer, but bear with me as we're talking 65+ years ago...
Top "section" included forged actual pedal surface with curved round rod (3/8-1/2 inch??) that extended down into and just under floorboards, altho may technically been part of firewall, don't remember floor design that clearly.
At lower end of rod, on top of rod, was machined out half moon area, probably 1/2to 3/4 inch from lower end of rod, probably into about a third of the rods diameter..
This forging was only connected to the "lower " section of pedal assembly (lower section completely under floorboards/firewall).
This lower section was connected to the master cyl....
I don't recall actual location and linkage to master cyl, but lower section had a rod that extended up to meet the lower end of upper section that was protruding thru flbds/frwall. This rod was topped by a clevis taking a round bolt
When the lower end of the pedal section was fitted into the clevis, the machined out half moon fit the clevis holes exactly, so that when the right size bolt slipped thru the clevis it filled the half moon space perfectly, As I recall, it didn't have the look of something gobbered together, and we were all too familiar with gobbering things together in those days...
Hopefully 30s Hudson/Terraoieces (my apologies, couldn't resist) owners will be running out to look at their brake pedals and will advise..
Also later had 34 Terriblepain (oops) and a 35 Hudson coupe (jalopies), but never thought to check pedals....
Would've sent a sketch but, since a meltdown, only transmits in GB instead of KB...
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How many Hudsons used the two piece (clevis and bolt together) brake pedals???
Had a 36 6cyl 4dr (jalopy days) on which the bolt worked loose, fell out---stepped on brake, top half slipped thru clevis to floorboard without enough friction to engage brakes and contacted/shorted out starter solenoid with lots of sparks and elec smoke...
No crash or fire, but disconcerting, to say the least......
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Gave Hudson pat on the back; forgot about their needing a klunk on the head...
Driving 36 6cyl 4dr in small town downtown (jalopy years). Approaching intersection, brake pedal fell to floor amid sparks and elec smoke...got stopped with emergency, no crash, no fire (no cross traffic, pulled pedal up by hand)...
Turns out brake pedal in TWO parts, one above floorboards to just below floorboards, other below floorboards connected to brakes...'Lower part has clevis joint top; upper part round rod with half moon cut in top of rod. A bolt goes thru clevis and cut, holding brake pedal parts together.
What happened was bolt loosened, worked out; when stepped on brake, round rod top slid down thru clevis without moving lower part enough to engage brakes, DOWN ONTO STARTER SOLENOID, shorting it out, spewing sparks and smoke. Some designer was really asleep when that went through.
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It's completely true that the old single hyd circuit brakes were completely reliable if at all decently maintained, and that the hand (emergency) brake was generally almost as good for rear brakes, .or I wouldn't be alive now
It's also true that that system had one glaring flaw---any serious leak, or a break in a line equalled no wheel brakes, which, I know from experience, can be disconcerting, to say the least (since, I never move a car without stepping on the brake, just to make sure they're still there)...
This doesn't mean I'm recommending replacement; the odds of such an incident are vanishingly small on maintained systems; but it is there, and ANY changes or oddities in brake "feel" should be investigated...
Hudson had a system of hooking the emergency (rear wheel cables) brakes directly to the brake pedal---if pedal went past factory travel to engage hyd's, emergencies would take up before pedal hit the floor (there's nothing quite like the feeling of sailing along and a brake pedal suddenly falling to the floor...)...
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Just to muddy things a little---1938 little Gates lists Moon 6-40 (Newport in size section) 23-26 as Gates then #833 flat 1x40 (1x401/4 in a later catalog)
38 catalog lists 15 makes using---sorry, no Buick---including Dodge (C) 4cyl 1927, Dodge (P) 124 4cyl 27-28, Durant (P) 60, 63, 65, 66 29-30, sorry, no Velie...I'm sure the "C" and "P" mean Comm'l or passenger...
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Just noticed an interesting little bit about Falls...
King Products June 1932 catalog (Engine parts, front end bushings) doesn't list any Falls engines..
However, their March 1936 Master Catalog does, losting a few 4 and 6s under piston assembly, one model under valves, and seven *two types) under bearings...
For the T, TT, V and early K models it lists a replacement insert rod bearing, to replace the old poured rods, NLA through that company, at least...
My understanding is that while offering replacement rods using inserts to replace older poured rods was not rare, it was uncommon, generally limited to high-production number engines......
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As lump says above, Grant owned Walker engine until the end (acquired H J Walker Mfg Co March 1920, sold just before Receivership 1923 per Std Cat)...
However, my old parts catalogs are all over the place, listing Walker engines being used as early as 1915...these old parts catalogs often do not agree on models/years or engines, but the Grant listings are particularly contradictory re' Falls or Walker engines in specific models/years...(only Falls or Walkers are listed)...
Never researched Walker; name shows up rarely (30 McCord catalog lists a Walker 6C OHV 31/16 x 41/2, per that catalog used in Grant 20-23 and Kelsey1923; but under Grant lists an unidentified Walker 6cyl 3x41/2 and the 6C...it would've been unusual if falls and Walker both didn't also sell engines to other makers who claimed as "own" or who do not so list in my catalogs
That 1930 catalog only lists two Falls engines, an unidentified 31/8x41/4 6cyl 1917-22 and their T-8000, also 31/8x 41/4 1923=25, but apparently a different engine or a major upgrade taking different gaskets...I believe at least four or five different bore Falls are listed in catalogs, as well as a Falls 4cyl, for Grant...
For researchers, there was another Grant, the Grant Six, built 1912-13 in Cleveland, unrelated and before our Grant, but easily confused if dates not accurate...
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When the starter was "checked", did they say in so many words that it was checked under load???...starters can perform well with a worn engine, but be a bit overloaded with new rings/higher compression etc.....
Does it have a removable band for inspection of commutator, brush condition, spring tension, etc, or are you certain all this was "checked"???
You should be making a list of all the things you've checked, just for your own convenience,; sometimes reviewing the list will jog your memory as to something you haven't already thought to check..
You didn't define "struggling"---we're all probably assuming you mean slower engine turning over than before rebuilding...
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You've got numerous possibilities here (too small battery cables is a good one)...
"Just restored"===engine, too?? if so, maybe you set it up a bit tight???
Did you paint it?? paint where the starter mounts?? if so, maybe lessened ground connection??
Starter struggles when hot or all the time, cold too???
Rewired or unhooked wiring??? All connections clean, snug??? and on and on...(it's late here)
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(Sigh) It never fails...
Falls has (had?) an interesting history---beginning as a woodworking machinery co, moving into farm type engine (1 cyl horizontal hopper cooled flywheel types, not sure correct terminology) and into 4, 6 and a few 8s for automobiles...don't know if any got into industrial or commercial uses......
I was just looking at one of my old posts on Falls, but don't remember whether here or on smokstak..
Search Falls in both, or Google the Motor Co, will probably come up....could be under handles clueless or noncompos, used before I reverted to name...
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Any lettering of any kind on what's left??
A July 1919 Power Wagon truck spec list shows a number of wood wheel m'f'g's making the 36x5, a fairly popular size that gravitated from the rears of 1-2Tons, as mentioned above, to the fronts of up to a 51/2 Ton Maccar..
Yes, what's left does look a bit spidery for heavy tonnage....
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A large number of old trucks used "vendors" (suppliers) components, including wheels, rather than make their own...if your wheel was one, it may've been used on a number of different trucks of the period...
If no definite ID comes up, try contacting SupeJeff (Jeff L) who runs the "Ahat Am I" forum on justoldtrucks...he has a monumental collection of old truck pix, etc, and may be able to help...
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Still hoping someone will turn up my old Hupp---found on an edge of town junker lot in SBO (1959) bought for #150 (a steal even then),,,towed/driven to Santa Cruz, Cal (towed on flats and downhill, driven uphill) and to Portland, OR...
Finally gave up hopes of operation (2 children), sold to Grants pass, OR around 1975, where it was restored and later resold to someone from So Cal...
When last seen was light blue below belt line, black above and on fenders and wheel well spares (metal covers), ww tires...didn't care for color scheme, seemed to break up the line, give it a "boxy" look---; my peeling dark blue overall with plain black tires accentuated length, much more pleasing...
Hasn't shown up on Club register, altho forgot to check before this posting...
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Reminds me, again, of the time, years ago, when I was visiting my brother in LA...
We;d earlier disposed of three vehicles, he'd gotten into 40s Cads, I'd moved north, gotten away from the fie;ld...
With him, looking at a car, or what there was of it, I said "Tom, ...that's a parts car..."......
His answer was "You're out of touch...when you were down here, it WAS a parts car...NOW it;s a restorer...".
Altho I do believe that if Tom was still here, even he'd pale at the thought of saving this one.....
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Owners? or Restorers? were looking for a replacement for the original Cont'l Straight 8, loosely described, as i recall, in litres...
Does anyone here know whether they found their or a suitable Cont'l 8 ???
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Marc et al: Again. my apologies...
Among my many and varied failings i see I'm still confusing right and left...
On the picture, please try to ignore my carping criticism; I should be, and hereby am, declaring my deep appreciation for people like you, who go out of their way to more broadly publicize finds like this;. Efforts of dedicated people, like you, save a tremendous amount of material from the scrappers and are a tremendous (and often unsung) asset to the field......
Among my other failings, I tend to forget that millions do not have a digital camera and a computer,, to snap pix and transmit around the world...
1917 Auburn Engine
in Auburn Cord Duesenberg (ACD)
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DENNIS JASANY----got a copy of your request on Hemmings Blog, but it won't print out when I bring the Blog section up!! The last item showing on my set is the last of the mower comments...
Anyway, WHICH Cont'l do you need??? My old catalogs, weak reeds to lean on, show 7N, 7W and 9N for various 1917s...