Nevadavic
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Posts posted by Nevadavic
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I think I’ve found the culprit for the “third gear pop out” problem …. hopefully….
First of all, both the selector rod and shifter rod ends are worn out of round. And second, instead of “insulators” at the each end of the shifter rod, like the shop manual calls for, there were “thick brass washers.” Looks like someone used the brass pieces instead of the insulators. When I install the parts from Bob’s, I hope that cures the issue.
Like critterpainter said; “Adjusting is easy and good bushings are a must!”
Vic
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Thanks to everyone so far for your help!
critterpainter - I have ordered 1941-48 Shift Linkage Repair Kit and 1940-48 Trans. Selector Bushing Kit from Bob's Automobilia. I hope that will help.
DonMicheletti - I hope that the input bearing is OK... I don't like the idea of removing the transmission if I don't have to. We'll see...
jvelde - The 41 Series 60-70-90 transmission is different from the 39. I have ordered a new repair kit for the selector and shift rods for the 41.
After some further reading in the shop manual, I found a section on "Gear Jump-Out." I'm going to investigate improperly adjusted engine mounting and go through the "Engine Mounting Adjustment" procedure and see if that helps. I'm going to try the "easy stuff" first before pulling the transmission.
Vic
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I’m having a problem with adjusting the transmission in a ’41 Roadmaster sedan. When decelerating in third gear the transmission pops out of gear.
The transmission works quite well and I believe it was overhauled in its recent history. It shifts well throughout all gears and is quiet. When I got the car I replaced all the fluids including using 90 weight GL-4 gear oil in the transmission. I have followed the “Adjustments” procedure in the 1941 Buick Shop Manual (page 174, Transmission, Universal Joint) and have adjusted the "selector rod" first and then "shifter rod" clevis several times in both directions hoping to solve the problem to no avail. And yes, I do have 1/8” clearance in both directions between the control lever housing and the mast jacket….at least I think I have. Ha!
I sure would appreciate any thoughts or solutions to this problem.
Thanks in advance for your comments, Vic
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Hi Victor,
The following specs are from the 1934 Buick Shop Manual for 50 – 60 – 90 Series. (I would suggest that you purchase the shop manual…. Lots of good information…)
1934 Buick Series 50 Specifications
Operating tappet clearance = .008 with engine hot (this is on the tag on the valve cover)
Spark plugs = AC type H9 (check eBay for original plugs) Spark plug gap = .020 - .025 (I use .025)
Distributor point gap = .015 limits are .0125 - .0175 Dwell angle is 31 degrees at .015 using a Dwell meter.
Ignition timing = 7 degrees (always adjust points first, then adjust timing)
Set the “octane Selector” to high.
Disconnect and plug the vacuum line to the vacuum advance at the distributor.
Loosen the distributor timing screw just enough to move the distributor body.
Uncover the timing hole at the flywheel housing.
Use a 12V timing light and a 12 volt battery as a power source. (hopefully you have a timing light)
Start the engine and idle engine at 400 RPM and point timing light at timing hole.
Rotate distributor body until “ADV” mark is shown in hole. Tighten distributor screw and reconnect vacuum advance.
Engine oil (air temp 32 – 120 degrees) = S.A.E. 30 oil is specified in the shop manual. Engine oil capacity = 9 quarts. Refill = 7 quarts. (I like to use 10W-40 oil. No ZDDP additive is necessary since the engine uses roller valve lifters. There has been a number of discussions about engine oil elsewhere on this site)
Transmission/Rear Axle gear oil (above 32 degrees) = S.A.E. 160 is specified in the shop manual. Transmission capacity = 1.75 pints. Rear axle capacity = 3 pints (I use 140 GL-4 hypoid gear oil available at NAPA) Again, there are several discussions about gear oil too.
I don't consider myself to be an expert but I do hope this helps you with some of the information you're looking for. I'm sure others will chime in too to give you some of there thoughts and suggestions.
Nevada Vic
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Hello oldwood,
Is the spark plug cover still available? Yeah, I know your ad is almost 2 years old.... I just bought a 41 Roadmaster without the cover. What's the NEW price? Just asking .... Ha! I assuming it will fit the 41 320 engine.
Thanks in advance for your time,
Vic
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Here's an example of an accessory "Biflex" front bumper on my 1925 Stearns-Knight 4 Passenger Militaire.
Vic
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I've used "Folex" carpet spot remover found at The Home Depot. It seems to work well for me with a little rubbing effort and white cotton rags available in the auto section of Costco.
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Here’s a tire changer that doesn’t use cylinders or pistons to change tires. Just place your hand on the handle and turn! Sorry, it’s not for steel wheels but for vintage wooden wheels with split rims. The brass tag says; “CLARK TIRE CARRIER & CHANGER CO.” 329-331 Washington St., Oakland, CA. Pat. Dec. 7, 1920. It actually does what it is supposed to do. I’ve changes several tires over the years using this tool. I guess I should restore it someday.
I purchased the tire changer at an auction at the C.O.D. garage in Minden, Nevada when the car dealership was going out of business in 2004. C.O.D. Garage started business in 1912 by Clarence Oliver Dangburg At the time it was the only garage between Sacramento and Bodie, California. The auction went on for three days and there was a lot of interesting vintage car dealer items sold.
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Hi Thomas,
If the brushes are for a car starter motor you may want to give Lester Harris a call in Nevada. I've had good luck with many pre-war car electrical parts from him. He does not have an internet connection, only a land line. Lester's phone number is 775 267-2559. Please give a description of the starter and what kind of car it is use on.
Nevadavic
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Hi Marty,
I could use the '34 Buick hub cap to replace the one with the crack on the car.... What condition is the hub cap in?
Give me a call,
Vic 775 691-8295
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Here's the "Gabriel Snubber Repair & Adjustment" pdf that may be useful.
Vic
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Clutch is ****SOLD****
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Hi Tom,
I have a set of Gabriel Snubbers I bought from a fellow club member that I'm in the process of restoring for a 1925 Stearns-Knight.
I found this literature, "How to Adjust and Lubricate Gabriel Snubbers." Maybe you already have this:
http://www.dmacweb.com/documentation/tech%20docs/Gabriel%20Snubber%20Repair%20%26%20Adjustment.pdf
One of the snubbers is in great condition and it may be "NOS" by the looks of everything. The belt is in great shape and has two pieces of 0.031" brass. One piece is about 23" long and the belt is riveted to it with four (4) rivets where it connects to the sleeve casting. There is a second brass piece about 12" long that is riveted at each end with one rivet. There is another short piece of belt called "fabric filler strip" that is attached near the sleeve casting as well (see the literature above). I'm going to use this example to make a duplicate for the other snubber.
The belting is available from Restoration Supply Company in Escondido, CA. Their phone number is 800 306-7008. The belting is an extra heavy close weave used for the snubber application. You'll see in the above literature "How to Determine Size of Snubber." By the way, they no longer carry the 1 1/4" width if that's what you need.
I'll be taking some photos as I go through the process and will post them when I do, over the next few weeks.
Vic
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Have you tried Costco?
Trans pops out of 3rd gear on deceleration - 1941
in Buick - Pre War
Posted
Well... I replaced the rear transmission mount hoping that would resolve "the problem." The old mount was in sad shape but it didn't stop the transmission from popping out in third gear. I did install all new bushings, a new spring and welded up the shifter and selector rods.
It looks like I have to remove the transmission and replace the input shaft bearing and any other parts necessary. I did some research for the necessary parts for the project and found most of them. Critterpainter mentioned a tapered "Bellville Washer," I couldn't seem to find one of these. Could someone please tell me where I can get a Bellville washer for a 1941 Buick Series 70 transmission?
Thanks again for all the help so far!
Vic