Nevadavic

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Everything posted by Nevadavic

  1. 4 “Lester” 6.00-23 used vintage wide whitewall tires for FREE. There is still good tread left. Come and get them in Gardnerville, Nevada. Local pick up preferred, I don't want to ship them. .....Call Vic at (775) 691-8295.....
  2. Hi Buzz68, I saw your ad about the Model A and would like to come over and see it. I'm in Gardnerville, only a half hour away. Please give me a call when you are available. Vic
  3. Is the Hudson still for sale? And have you come up with a price? Vic
  4. 1941 Buick Roadmaster sedan, Series 71, exterior window trim, 5 pieces total. A full set for all the side windows plus an extra for the front passenger window. Some small pitting typical on all the pieces, see photo. $100.00 for all of them plus shipping. Please PM me with any questions.
  5. 1941 Buick Roadmaster sedan, Series 71, exterior window trim, 5 pieces total. A full set for all the side windows plus an extra for the front passenger window. Some small pitting typical on all the pieces, see photo. $125.00 for all of them plus shipping. Please PM me with any questions.
  6. The Umbrella Valve Seals didn't work; the inner valve springs didn't allow enough room. I did use the Chevy o-ring seals on all the valves though. After the break-in procedure the car now has no smoke and does seem to run better. Maybe the oil being fed to the rocker arms had nowhere to go but out the small hole in the top of the rocker arms and down the valve stems when the engine had the solid lifters installed. Anyway… I now have a 1949 Buick engine with the proper hydraulic lifters installed and no smoke.
  7. Well, I just couldn’t “leave things alone.” The tail pipe smoke was not going away and I needed to take a chance on putting hydraulic lifters in the engine. Bloo responded on November 27, that I really need to find out what kind of cam I have. He mentioned something about ‘clearance ramps.” I did some research and found the following: “The difference in a solid lifter camshaft and a hydraulic camshaft is the “clearance ramps” on the leading edge of the cam lobe’s shape. I also found this: You need to measure the “lash ramp,” that is the area on the cam coming off the base circle at the lowest point that the lifter can be, and then look for the start of the lifter lift. A hydraulic cam will show very little lift before going to rapid lift… about .003 to ,006, a solid cam might be in the .010 to .030 range.” I used a dial indicator on one of the lifters and slowly turned the engine over and watched the dial indicator several times. The estimated readings were .004 - .006 before the dial indicator really took off. I think the cam is hydraulic. I did get several boxes of parts when I bought the car and found the correct hydraulic hollow push rods, hydraulic ball studs with the oil passage in them and a few used hydraulic lifters. When I took the rocker arms off to clean them, they had the oil passage for the ball studs. The existing solid lifter setup used ball studs with no oil passages and solid push rods and lifters. I bought new hydraulic lifters from Bob’s and used the proper hydraulic ball studs and the correct hydraulic push rods. I soaked the new lifters in a can of oil for a couple days and then replaced the solid lifters with the new lifters. I did a break-in procedure for the lifters just like a new cam break-in procedure. I used the procedure to set the lifter preload as outlined on Buicks.net. INITIAL ADJUSTMENT OF HYDRAULIC VALVE LIFTERS http://www.buicks.net/shop/reference/l-8_valve_adjustment.html After the break-in procedure the car now has no smoke and does seem to run better. Maybe the oil being fed to the rocker arms had nowhere to go but out the small hole in the top of the rocker arms and down the valve stems. Anyway… I now have a 1949 Buick engine with the proper hydraulic lifters installed and no smoke. Vic
  8. Hi buick man, Thank you for your response. I haven’t installed the lifters in the engine yet but have done the following so far: I put the hydraulic lifters in a coffee can with break-in oil for several days. I then took the lifters out and set them on the bench. I then took a push rod and compressed each lifter several times to make sure there was full travel. They all seem to rebound like they should. I’m going to wipe the bottom of the lifters and apply assembly lube to each one and do the same to the cam lubes before assembly. I’m going to use the procedure outlined on Buicks.net INITIAL ADJUSTMENT OF HYDRAULIC VALVE LIFTERS http://www.buicks.net/shop/reference/l-8_valve_adjustment.html After the engine is reassembled I’ll due a break-in procedure for the lifters.
  9. Thanks again Ben and NTX5467 for your expert help! I had the head worked on by outfit in Reno, NV and they said the valve guide were within factory specifications. I gave them the specifications for a 1950 series 70 engine I got online. Yes, the first thing I did was to check the fitting that supplies oil to the rocker arm shaft. The one that was in the head when I bought the car was wrong; the hole was around an 1/8” diameter. I replaced it with one with a much smaller hole, about a 1/16” like you said. I learned to check that because other old cars have had the same issue. I did think about reducing the solid lifter clearance to .006 or so, but since I had the head off I thought I would go back to the original hydraulic lifters since the cam is hydraulic and the engine is supposed to be a hydraulic engine. Also replacing the solid lifters with hydraulics would reduce the amount of oil coming out of the rocker arm holes as mentioned above in my post. By the way, the ‘41 shop manual says; “Series 50 and 70 cylinder head cannot be removed without damage to #16 push rod unless #16 push rod is lifted and removed or installed with the head. This is because head must be pushed forward to clear the body. #16 push rod cannot be installed after head is in place for the same reason.” Not an easy change to do. The ‘49 engine is in a ’41 Roadmaster sedan…. Vic
  10. Another thought.... Using solid lifters on a hydraulic cam and setting the rocker arm clearance at .015 change the valve timing by several degrees? I did pre-lube the hydraulic lifters by soaking them in oil for several days and then pressed a push rod and oil on each of them several times.
  11. Thanks for your responses Ben and NTX5467 . I ordered the umbrella stem seals: 3/8 HI-TEMP Silicone Umbrella Valve Seal Set of 16 Enginetech S2886-16 https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-8-HI-TEMP-Silicone-Umbrella-Valve-Seal-Set-of-16-Enginetech-S2886-16-/301713299191 I have taken the head off the ’49 Roadmaster engine. The engine was fitted with solid lifters instead of hydraulics. I did find some hydraulic parts in the extra parts boxes I got with the car. The existing rocker arms do have the oil passage holes to the ball studs but had solid lifter ball studs with no oil holes installed instead. The push rods were solid push rods with no oil hole as well. Since the rocker arms don’t have the hydraulic parts installed, most of the oil is coming out the oil hole on top of the rocker arms and going to the valve stems. If the hydraulic parts were installed instead, I would think most of the oil would be going down the push rods to the hydraulic lifters. The rocker arm hole feeding oil to the ball studs is much larger than the hole on top of the rocker arms. In a previous post, there was some question whether the camshaft in the car was hydraulic or solid. I found the following: The difference in a solid lifter camshaft and a hydraulic camshaft is the “clearance ramps” on the leading edge of the cam lobe’s shape. I also found this: You need to measure the “lash ramp,” that is the area on the cam coming off the base circle at the lowest point that the lifter can be, and then look for the start of the lifter lift. A hydraulic cam will show very little lift before going to rapid lift… about .003 to ,006, a solid cam might be in the .010 to .030 range. I used a dial indicator on one of the lifters and slowly turned the engine over and watched the dial indicator several times. The estimated readings were .004 - .006 before the dial indicator really took off. I think the cam is hydraulic. I bought hydraulic lifters from Bob’s and found the proper hydraulic ball studs with oil holes and the correct hydraulic push rods in the extra parts boxes. I’m going to install the hydraulic lifters, the correct ball studs and push rods and break-in the lifters just like a cam break-in procedure. I also found “1951 Buick Hydraulic Valve Lifter Adjustment” procedure for adjusting the lifters using the firing order for cylinder 1 and 8. It simplifies the adjustment procedure by aligning the flywheel “UDC 1-8” marks in the timing hole. “Turn adjusting ball stud down exactly 2 turns” seems a lot but that is what the procedure says. Vic
  12. Did a 1949 Buick 320 cu in engine originally have valve stem seals? I can’t seem to find any information about valve stem seals being used on an original stock engine. If seals where used, where do I get them or what would be the modern equivalent? Is machining necessary to fit modern seals to the valve guides?
  13. Hi again avgwarhawk, The photo of the piston rings was what I found installed from the previous owner. The two compression rings were correct but the bottom three-piece oil ring was not. I purchased a new set of piston rings from Bob’s. The bottom ring is now a one- piece cast iron oil ring. Yeah, maybe I didn’t need hardened seats,,, but I have them now….. From all the input I have received, I think I’ll just keep the existing set up and run it as is for now. Vic
  14. Hi Ben, I appreciate your response! This engine is a 320 Roadmaster (engine number 5410863-7). From what I have been told, all '49 Roadmaster engines were equipped with hydraulic lifters and Dyna-Flow transmissions. When I purchased this car I asked the forum what year the engine was because it didn't look quite right from the photos in the '41 shop manual. Everyone that responded to my topic, "Straight Eight Engine ID", were very informative and helpful. in fact, you Ben, were one of them! Thanks again for your help! As I stated previously, this engine was retrofitted with solid lifters for some reason. That's why I posted this topic.... Vic
  15. Hi Dave, I agree, removing and replacing the cam is a big deal, especially in the car. Maybe I'll just keep putting more miles on the car and see if the rings break in. The smoke has decreased somewhat with use. I check the exhaust deflector after a run with a rag. The engine doesn't seem to be using much oil. Thanks for your response and advice! Vic
  16. Thanks for your responses, Bloo and Rooster! Bloo; you’re right, the cam could have been reground to anything AND you know a lot more about this engine stuff than I do, clearance ramps and such, since I’m just a weekend hobbyist. I don’t know what it is now, of course, but I’m hoping it is still a hydraulic one. I would have liked to talk to the machine shop that did the work in ’86 but their gone according to the owners of the building now. They said they have been gone over ten years or more; too bad. The previous owner of the car was in his mid-80’s when he died ten years ago, I doubt he ordered an aggressive grind…. just an assumption on my part.. I don’t expect “increased” performance, just a better running engine without smoke. The car does have good power and cruises along at 65 MPH without any problems. I’ll be long dead before the first hydraulic lifter collapses, I’m 74….Ha! A little car humor… Maybe I should just leave things alone! But... there is that little bit of smoke though that bothers me….. I did have the machine shop rebuild the head while it was off the engine. They said the valve guides were with spec and replaced all the exhaust valves and put in hardened seats for them. They magnafluxed and milled the head slightly and did test the springs which were within spec as well. I did expect that the head would be in good shape since I didn’t see much wear in the cylinders (no ridge) when I installed the new rings. Rooster; yes, the photo of the piston and rings was what it looked like when I removed the piston from one of the cylinders. I have “clocked’ all the new rings when I reinstalled the pistons. Thanks for your expert opinions and advice, it is much appreciated! Vic
  17. Hi avgwarhawk, Thanks for your reply. I think the engine has very few miles on the engine even though it was rebuilt some 31 years ago. When I took the head off I inspected the cam and lifters and they looked great; no viable wear. I'm "hoping" by replacing the solid lifters with hydraulics, the correct hollow push rods and correct rocker arm screws it will make it run as it should. I just don't understand why the solid lifters were installed in the first place....?! Maybe because the original '41 engine had them in in there? Vic
  18. Hi Matt, Thanks for your quick response! I do have receipts that I got when I purchased the car. A local machine shop, Speed Machine in Reno did the engine overhaul in 1986. Speed Machine is no longer in business. One of the items on the receipt says “Regrind Camshaft.” I seems like the existing cam was just “reground.” So I think the original hydraulic cam is in the engine. A little history for the car: ….Yes, it’s long but it’s history! Ha! I purchased the car from the previous owner’s son. His father owned the car for some 40 years. The son inherited the car and let it sit in the garage for eight years. I purchased the car and trailered it home. The car didn’t run very well and smoked. I drained all the fluids, cleaned out the pan and took the oil pump apart, drained the gas tank and cleaned the fuel lines, rebuilt the dual carbs, did a complete tune-up and got the car running. It still smoked so I did a compression check. All the cylinders were 120 PSI except for two at 115. Not bad! The car had a frame-off restoration at Adams Custom Engines in Reno that took a year and a half in the mid 90's. I have driven the car for several hundred miles and changed the oil (Rotella 15W-40) several times to clean out the engine. …Still smoked. I pulled the head and checked the pistons and cylinders. The engine receipt said “Rebore Cyl & Hone to Size.” The pistons are 0.030 over and the cylinders had no ridge and the 45 degree honing was still somewhat visible. The piston rings that were installed didn’t look right. There were two compression rings and two three- piece oil control rings. I ordered rings from Bob’s. The bottom ring should have been a cast iron oil scraper ring. I used a ball hone on the cylinders and replaced the pistons. While I the engine apart, I replaced all the insert rod bearings and had the oil pump base plate resurfaced. Oh, I also had the head completely rebuilt by a local machine shop in Reno. New valves and hardened seat too. I have driven the car several more hundred miles to break-in the rings. The car performs better now. It only smokes some now if it idles for several minutes and then I accelerate the engine. I do think acceleration should be better though. The engine doesn’t transition from idle very well. Yes, I’ve tuned the carbs using a vacuum gauge and I believe they’re set right. The floats are right at the inspection hole, as per the shop manual. I’m hoping that replacing the solid lifters with hydraulics will make the engine perform better. Vic aka Nevadavic
  19. I have a 1949 straight eight engine (engine number 5410863-7) installed in a 1941 Roadmaster. I posted a topic "Straight Eight Engine ID" on June 17 in the Buick - Pre War forum to identify the '49 engine. http://forums.aaca.org/topic/294409-straight-eight-enigine-id/?tab=comments#comment-1614103 the car was restored in the mid 90's and does have a three speed transmission on the column, like it should. I understand that a 1949 Roadmaster engine came only with hydraulic lifters. The engine in my car has solid lifters installed instead of hydraulics. I’ve adjusted the valves to 0.015” as per the ’41 shop manual for solid lifters and the engine runs fairly well. I assume that the camshaft valve timing for a hydraulic lifter engine may be different than a solid lifter cam.... is that right? Engine performance may not be correct with solid lifters in a hydraulic cam engine. Will installing hydraulic lifters improve engine performance?? I would like to replace the solid lifters with hydraulics. I do have the hydraulic hollow push rods and the correct rocker arm hollow screws in a box that came with the car. It looks like the previous owner replaced the hydraulic lifters with solids for some reason. New hydraulic lifters are available from Bob's Automobilia. Sooo... any thoughts...? Vic
  20. Hi Bullrun, There's a really nice '35 Ford Phaeton on SF Bay Craigslist in Turlock, California for $43,000. https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/cto/d/1935-ford-phaeton-convertible/6382056388.html It looks like a nice restoration that was done with care.... Vic
  21. Hi Diseasewithnocure, There Are several fuel pumps available on ebay right now that may work for you. Bob;s Automobilia is a good source as well, but since you don't have a core, the price may be a little high. The correct fuel pump may get you closer to solving the issues at hand! ebay - 1940 Buick fuel pump https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=1940+buick+fuel+pump Vic
  22. Hi Dynaflash8, I own a 1941 Roadmaster sedan that uses a WIX oil filter number 551001. Napa Auto Parts has a cross-reference number 1001 for the filter. I usually order a couple of them through Napa since they don’t have them in stock. Hope this helps! Vic
  23. Here's one Paul in Sacramento, CA that looks good to me.... 1957 Ranchero on the HAMB... https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1957-ranchero.1065803/ Vic