Nevadavic

Thank you dibarlaw, Rooster and Robert Engle for your helpful responses! I do think I'll try Robert's removal procedure. By the way, the oil pump on the '34 is driven by the camshaft. I think that may be common from 1931 - 35. The distributor and water pump are driven by the generator gear. I don't want to remove the camshaft if I don't have to. Thank you for all responding, Nevadavic

I have a 1934 Series 50 with a knocking noise coming from the front timing gear area. The noise is in time with the camshaft. The engine is in the car now and I know I have to remove the hood and front end, generator, water pump, radiator, front motor mount, timing cover and pan to gain access. My question is, what is the best procedure to remove the existing fiber timing gear? Do I need to use a puller, if so, what kind is necessary? I do have an aluminum timing gear to replace the existing one. What torque I should use on the new one? I think this procedure may be similar for 1931-35 Buick engines. Any help would be most appreciated before I begin! Nevadavic

I have a 1934 Buick Series 50 sedan that has a noise coming from the timing gear housing. The single knocking noise is only apparent at idle (400 RPM) after warm-up at the front of the engine. If I increase speed off idle the noise is much less. Using my Harbor Freight stethoscope, the noise is most apparent at the timing gear case at the generator attachment bolts and the coil bolts. At first, I thought the noise might be a rod or the torsion balancer, but I even removed the torsion balancer to eliminate the problem. I figure the cam timing gear needs replacement since the generator and crank gears are steel. I do hope my assumption is correct! I do have a correct aluminum timing gear I bought several years ago on this site. Bob’s Automobilia also has the fiber gear for the series 50. I also have a complete gasket set from Olson's gaskets, hopefully the correct gaskets are in the set! To replace the timing gear, I’ll need to remove the hood, grille, radiator, water pump, generator, oil pan, fan and crank pulley just to gain access to the front timing cover. It looks like the front motor mount is part of the cover as well. Sooo… I assume I will have to raise the engine slightly to remove the front motor mount. Is this all correct? If not, your advice and experience would be much appreciated! After reviewing past posts on this site, the new cam gear needs to be aligned with the crank gear. The generator gear has no alignment with the cam gear. Once everything is assembled, ignition timing with the distributor is straight forward. Oh, by the way, I do have the 1934 Buick shop manual for series 50-60-90 cars, but it says very little about timing gears, only the width of the correct gear and an optional +1S oversize gear from the Parts Department. Of course no torque specs are in the manual, any help with that would be appreciated too. Thank you in advance for all your help, Nevadavic

Thanks Robert for your help ...and your comment JFranklin. On closer inspection, it seems the clamps are a little loose as seen in the attachment above. It looks like once the two halves are removed the two bolts will be available to tighten. Anyway, I hope so! Nevadavic

There was a noise coming from the front of the engine on my ’34 Buick Series 50. I used a stethoscope and found it most loud at the lower front of the engine at low idle. If I accelerated the engine above idle the noise would disappear. The car has insert rods and mains and that doesn’t seem to be the issue; no rod noise at acceleration. I took of the pan and started investigating to try to identify the problem. I noticed that the torsion balancer seems to be loose. I can wiggle it fore and aft and it makes a clicking sound. The outer shell of the balancer seems to be slightly loose from the inner section. There are two halves to the balancer according to the manual. The manual says, under ‘Removal of Balancer;’ “If necessary to remove the balancer from the crankshaft remove the cotter pins, castellated nuts and plain washers, after which the two retaining bolts may be removed with a socket wrench. The balancer halves will then drop free from the crankshaft as it is rotated. Care should be taken when replacing the balancer that the washers are properly replaced, nuts drawn down tightly and new cotters installed.” I have not removed the balancer yet. I did remove the cotter pins, nuts and washers and tried to tighten the two bolts to see if that would solve the problem….it didn’t. I used 60 ft lbs of torque on the 3/8” bolts but to no avail. The manual says, “If a vibration or rattle is observed while the engine is being warmed up during cold weather a lighter oil should be used. I’m using 10W30 motor oil, so that’s not the problem. The manual goes on to say; “to identify the rattle or vibration as being caused by the balancer not functioning properly, proceed as follows…. See the attachments..... Basically, it says to replace the balancer with a new one if it’s bad. Good luck with that….. Has anyone had this problem with their early Buick? If so, what was your solution? Thank you for your help in advance, Nevadavic

Hi Pete, I have a '34 Series 57 sedan and my heat riser has a number 146-122 BO on it. See photo.

Lester Harris has the insert bearings in stock. I'm going over to get them tomorrow. Thanks everyone again for your information and suggestions. I do appreciate your help! Vic

Thanks pont35cpe and Eric Barrett, I'll give Lester a call. I've done business with Lester for several years and didn't think about him this time!! Hi Eric... Vic

OK raydurr, I appreciate your help! Vic

Hi raydurr, Wow, that was really a quick response! Thanks so much! Do you know that best place to buy the bearings, would my local Napa store be able to help? Thanks again raydurr! Vic

I have a 1934 Buick Series 57 with modified rod bearings. I would like to buy a new set of the insert rod bearings for my car. I pulled one of the rod caps off and found the following information on the bearing: CLEVITE 77 B-1 (on one end and) 3/00 .020 CB-90P ( on the other.) See the photos. ---------- Lester Harris has the insert bearings I'm looking for --------- Thanks in advance for your help! Vic

I have a 1934 Buick Series 57 with modified rod bearings. I would like to buy a new set of the insert rod bearings for my car. I pulled one of the rod caps off and found the following information on the bearing: CLEVITE 77 B-1 (on one end and) 3/00 .020 CB-90P ( on the other.) See the photos. I know ‘Clevite’ is the manufacturer and .020 is probably the undersize for the bearing but I’m not sure about all the other information. I would like to buy a full set of these rod bearings. Can someone point me in the right direction so I can purchase a set? Found Them!! Lester Harris in Minden, NV had a set of Chrysler bearings for me. Thank you Lester! Thanks in advance for your help! Vic

8 – NOS AC 104 spark plugs for 1941 Buicks in NOS (new-old-stock) condition. The information on the cardboard end flap says, AC TYPE 104, 17-P-5335, A-311992. Each spark plug has been dipped in a preservative to protect the plugs. I did peel off the material on one plug to expose it for its condition. Please review photos. -----Shipping is only available in the continental United States.---- 8 - AC 104 Spark Plugs for $25.00 + $5.00 shipping USPS First Class Package. Thank you ...Nevadavic

Hi 1927 Buick, Have you found your headlamp bulbs yet? I have 3 of the GE 'Mazda' 1110 bulbs (6-8 volt 21-21 CP) and 2 of the 'Peace' 1000 bulbs (6-8 volt 32-32 CP). $25.00 for all plus $4.50 USPS First Class Package shipping. Vic Nevadavic BCA 307

Hi Buzz68, I saw your ad about the Model A and would like to come over and see it. I'm in Gardnerville, only a half hour away. Please give me a call when you are available. Vic

Is it Sold?

Hi Bullrun, There's a really nice '35 Ford Phaeton on SF Bay Craigslist in Turlock, California for $43,000. https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/cto/d/1935-ford-phaeton-convertible/6382056388.html It looks like a nice restoration that was done with care.... Vic

Hi Diseasewithnocure, There Are several fuel pumps available on ebay right now that may work for you. Bob;s Automobilia is a good source as well, but since you don't have a core, the price may be a little high. The correct fuel pump may get you closer to solving the issues at hand! ebay - 1940 Buick fuel pump https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=1940+buick+fuel+pump Vic

Hi Dynaflash8, I own a 1941 Roadmaster sedan that uses a WIX oil filter number 551001. Napa Auto Parts has a cross-reference number 1001 for the filter. I usually order a couple of them through Napa since they don’t have them in stock. Hope this helps! Vic

Here's one Paul in Sacramento, CA that looks good to me.... 1957 Ranchero on the HAMB... https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1957-ranchero.1065803/ Vic

Hi Neil, I have only owned the Roadmaster for less than three months. The car didn't run very well since it was in storage for more than 5 years. There were several mechanical issues that needed attention since the car had not been used for so long. Once I got it run well I started driving the car around town on short trips and noticed the transmission problem. It seemed the transmission would pop out on deceleration no matter what speed I was traveling. I even tried to hold the column shift down in gear when decelerating to no avail. I could feel an intermittent upward movement in the shift lever as I decelerated. I did read the shop manual and followed the adjustment procedures for the transmission rods and motor mounts with no success. I then decided to post this topic and received some good advice. Yeah, I to didn't want to remove the transmission either, but that solved the problem when I learned I didn't have the $6.00 snap ring in place. Make sure you buy the 1941 shop manual! I sure was happy that I had the use of my son's two post lift, that made the job a lot easier. Vic

All is well. I installed a new snap ring, Bob's part #SR-389, along with a new throw-out bearing, torque ball lip seal, torque ball tapered seal, Trans input seal, pilot bearing and several gasket sets. No more popping out of third gear! Thanks again for all the responses to this topic, all your help isa dn was most appreciated! Vic

I removed the transmission yesterday. When I pulled the trans out there was no "Clutch Release Support Snap Ring that fell out, Bob's Automobilia part # SR-389. Could this Snap Ring be the one that comes with the "Tranny Input Bearing shown below?? Critterpainter said " SR-389 is the part I was referring to. It just sits in the bell housing and is held in place by the transmission. Its known to fall out and roll across the floor when the tranny comes out." I did notice that there was considerable side play in the transmission main shaft input bearing.when I moved the shaft from side to side. When I get the new bearing this week, Bob's Part # TIB-364, I'll be able to see if there is any difference between the new and old bearing.

Thanks again, critterpainter! I'm going to order the transmission bearings, gaskets, input shaft seal, torque ball gaskets and seals, input shaft seal, shift shaft seal, clutch throwout bearing and....Clutch release support snap ring - SR-389. I guess I might as well order the rear brake hose and the clutch arm boot too (the boot was missing). Am I forgetting anything since I have to remove the differential too? Hopefully this will solve the problem! Vic

Thanks DonMicheletti..... But Bob's doesn't list a bearing retainer spring, part number SP 389. There is a "Clutch release support snap ring", part number SR-389 though. Is that the one you meant? Thanks again, Vic