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lump

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Posts posted by lump

  1. 1 hour ago, DrumBob said:

    You from NJ? I go by Fred's warehouse all the time on Rt. 287. He used to have a yellow Packard on the roof. I think it's gone now. 

    No, I'm in Ohio. For many years I was the advertising agent for Kanter Auto Products and Performance Suspension Technology (PST). Fred and Dan and I worked closely on developing systems to monitor ad performance, and we were placing LOTS of ads in car magazines. Over time Fred and I became good friends. Our families sometimes vacationed together, and I stayed in Fred's home during business visits there. 

     

    I spent many hours in that building with the yellow Packard on the roof, and in their other buildings as well. Some AMAZING vintage automotive stuff was there on display. 

    • Like 2
  2. 4 hours ago, wayne sheldon said:

    I can't help with the Wolverine. And I am not sure I can be much help with the other one? However, it looks very much like the original hubcap wrench I had years ago for the 1925 Studebaker standard coach I used to have. The box end fit the hub caps, but I am not certain what the open end fit. Probably the wheel bearings?

    Some Studebaker hubcap wrenches had the Studebaker name on them. But a Studebaker expert I knew told me many of them did not have the name on them, and that mine was typical of many Studebaker wrenches.

    Ones with the Studebaker name are much harder to find, and more desirable. Read that as more expensive. It may be that a few other cars used the same wrench, and the tool makers made a lot more of the no name wrenches simply because they could go out to anyone else as well as Studebaker?

    They fit most Studebaker models across several years of the mid 1920s, for wooden spoke and some steel disc wheels. They did not fit wire wheel models, although during the years that wrench was used, few Studebakers had wire wheels.

     

    I was hoping I still had one of those wrenches, hoping to confirm the sizes. But I just looked where I keep that type of wrenches, and didn't find that one. I had two of them years ago, one went with the car when I sold it. Not sure what happened to the other one. It may have been in the tool box of hub pullers that I gifted to a good friend many years ago. 

     

    Saddened to hear how you lost your dad (others?). Sometimes it can be really difficult dealing with their things. Even years later.

    Thanks, Wayne. Much appreciated. 

  3. Many years ago I inherited automotive parts, tools, and equipment after a tragic accident took my family. So there was no chance for my Dad to pass on any knowledge he had about most items in his garage. I'm digging stuff out now, trying to label things with relevant info and in some cases, arrange to get items to someone who may be the next "caretaker" for them. Thus, I hope you'll all humor me by trying to help me ID items. 

     

    In the bottom of a metal box full of hub pullers I found two old "hubcap wrenches." One of them unmarked, with a hexagon boxed end 2-1/8", and an open end at 1.5". But the other has raised cast letters "WOLVERINE." So I wonder if "Wolverine" represents the REO-derivative automobile, and therefore this might be a factory-supplied "Tool Kit" item. Or perhaps the Wolverine name applies to a tool manufacturer? The big end is about 2-9/16" and the other is 2". 

     

    Any ideas? Thanks in advance for any assistance you can offer. 

    Wolverine wrench 1 Lo Rez.jpg

    Wolverine wrench 2 Lo Rez.jpg

  4. I high school a friend of mine had a 55 Chevy with original two-tone paint...it was a dark metallic color called "Shadow Gray" and a salmon pink color called, "Coral." I always wanted to "borrow" that car one night and paint the coral portion of it in that beautiful shadow gray metallic. LOL. I know, no accounting for taste! 

     

  5. Larry is right. That word "trademark" is normally used to claim rights to an adjacent logo, name, symbol, image, etc. It's possible that under that black paint there may be remnants of a painted image, or a decal. If you take some lacquer thinner on a rag and rub the flat area under the switch handle, you may find something. SOMETIMES the thinner will slowly dissolve the outer layer of paint, revealing anything underneath. 

    • Like 1
  6. A few years back I used to lease a new Corvette every 3 years as my daily driver, and for long business trips. The yellow Z06 in the attached photo had a bright red/black two-tone interior. When I would open the door in other people's presence, they would make some wild exclamation about the color combo, and pretend to shield their eyes from the intense color contrast. I loved it. 

     

     

    As a side note, for one single day, I had two Z06 Corvettes. The dealership dropped off my new one several hours before the leasing company came to pick up the former one. I made several trips up and down the road, waving at people I knew as I passed... first in a red Corvette, and a few minutes later in the yellow one. That raised some eyebrows. 😁

    Corvette pair 2.jpg

    • Haha 2
  7. Hello. I've reached the saturation point in my shop and basement and must start clearing out some things. I've always worried about throwing away vintage car parts which someone else might desperately need. Over the years I have bought boxes of car parts at auctions and estate sales, in order to get one or two items which I really wanted. But that leaves me with unidentified parts like these. Does anyone recognize them at all? Should I just throw them on the scrap metal heap, or what? 

     

    Thanks in advance for any help you can offer. 

     

     

    latches door unknown 1 Lo Rez.jpg

    latches door unknown 2 Lo Rez.jpg

  8. On 8/11/2022 at 3:36 PM, alsancle said:

    You guys will have to forgive me.   I have always heard "cycle fender" used to describe the Raymond Loewy designed 32/33 Hupp models vs the traditionally styled models they were selling at the same time.

     

    Maybe it is just a Hupp club thing or maybe I made it up.

     

     

    Alsancle, No need for forgiveness here... I was merely asking the question. I've never had an expert on vintage body styles show me exactly what is meant by "cycle fenders." I have heard the term applied to Hupmobiles many times over the years, but usually in a situation where I was not looking directly at said car, or even a photo. I had my own sort of, "assumption" of what a cycle-fender feature was, but it was just an assumption. This time, I could clearly see the side view of the car in question, and I did not see the specific features which I assumed comprised a "cycle-fender car." So I was seeking clarification from folks who know more about it than I do. 

     

    Anyway, I love seeing your posts on here. You obviously have had a great deal of experience with the older vintage cars. Cheers! 

    • Thanks 1
  9. 7 hours ago, edinmass said:

    I think the Hupp in green looks ok either way with the tire option………but the spot lights and trunk rack need to find the trash can. The Hupp guys seem to be very loyal to their brand. They drive their stuff more than many other smaller clubs, and seem to have above average attendance than one would expect. Most of them that I know are extremely elderly now…….and it doesn’t seem any younger people are stepping in or filling in the ranks. Interestingly……..I have never driven or worked on any Hupp………..and now I am going to make an effort to take a few for a spin.

    Come to Ohio some day, Ed. You're welcome to drive my late '23 Hupp Model R touring. It needs restoration these days, but I haven' the heart (or space or time) to do the job. So I drive it as is. Fairly fast for a 1923 4 cyl. 

    IMG_6009.JPG

    • Like 6
  10. I'm with Staver on "cycle fenders." I always thought the term referred to fenders which were independent of the running board (or featured with no running board at all), and tapered at least SORT OF to match the tire/wheel radius. But then, even though I grew up riding around in Hupmobile cars, I actually know more about 50's thru early 70's cars, so I'm no expert. 

     

    And I know that blackwalls seem to be all the rage these days, and in my opinion do look better on many smaller or cheaper cars. But in my taste I kind of like the whitewalls on that green Hupp. 

    • Like 3
  11. Hey, Keiser31, this one ought to be right up your alley. You too, 55er! 

     

    On the famous 127 Yard Sale last week, I found several cool old car parts. This particular piece appears to me to be a chrome trim unit from a Chrysler product vehicle...maybe from a tail fin? (It has the familiar DPCD logo and part number PT 2093888 on the backside. The red reflector says "Stimsonite" in raised letters. 

     

    I found some photos of Chrysler Imperial vehicles with SIMILAR trim, but nothing quite right. Does anyone have any ideas? 

     

    Any help will be much appreciated! 

    Mopar tailfin chrome unknown Lo Rez 1.jpg

    Mopar tailfin chrome unknown Lo Rez 3.jpg

    Mopar tailfin chrome unknown Lo Rez 4.jpg

    Mopar tailfin chrome unknown Lo Rez 5.jpg

  12. On 7/22/2022 at 7:05 AM, Dandy Dave said:

    Threads are measured at the outside diameter so measuring from the inside will be smaller as you need to add the depth of the thread X 2. To know the depth, you need to know the threads per inch and look it up in a Machinerys Handbook. Or today, just google it. The info is out there somewhere on the web.  

    Thanks, Dave. I am continually amazed by the increasing number of things I THOUGHT I understood, but in fact did not. The older I get, the dumber I feel. 

  13. So I went through my pullers, and checked them all with a Harbor Freight digital caliper set. None of the inside threaded pullers measured at 2 -3/8", but all of them actually tested a little smaller than any standard size. I'm no machinist, and not the best with calipers, micrometers, etc. So I tested some brand new common 3/4" threaded nuts, and they actually measure slightly smaller than a 3/4" ID. So now I'm not sure exactly what size a 2-3/8" inside-threaded hub puller ought to measure with a set of calipers. I'm getting 2.30" on the one I have in front of me. Can anyone tell me exactly what that thread size would be? 

  14. An easy one I have used in the past is: "What do the letters "M" and "G" stand for re the MG automobile? This one is good for the very casual car person, but too easy for most of us. 

     

    Another would be: What year did Chevrolet first offer a V8 engine? This one is good because many folks will confidently state "1955!" only to be shocked when told this is incorrect. 

     

    For folks with a strong Chevrolet background, I like to ask them: What makes a 1955 Chevrolet engine block totally different from all 1956-and-up Chevy V8 engine blocks? Chevy guys know immediately, but others are not always aware. 

     

    Finally, whenever I find myself confronted with young, tech-savvy motorheads who find it humorous that I am bewildered by modern computerized automotive systems, I like to say something like: Yeah, well if you're so sharp about automobiles, there are 3 pedals on the floorboard of a Model T Ford. NONE of them are the accelerator, and NONE of them are a clutch. So, what are these pedals, and please explain how you would drive a Model T Ford? (This always leaves them wide-eyed and a little less cocky. 

     

     

     

  15. When I was very young and very green Service Manager at a Goodyear store, my wife's boss took the two of us out to dinner. While there, the boss confessed that she was worried because her Buick Riviera needed a new exhaust system, and the Buick dealership had quoted her an outrageous price. This was my chance to be a hero, like my Dad, who often fixed cars for family friends at no charge, except for parts! Besides, it would earn brownie points for my wife. So I brought her car into the shop, put it up on a rack, and started trying to remove the rusty old system. But there was no torch allowed at this service store location, so I tried my best to get the rusted nuts off the manifold studs with every other trick I knew. But they broke off anyway. No big deal (yet), so I set about the task of removing both exhaust manifolds. But unlike the Chevy V8's in my hot rod cars, the Buick V8 engine had manifold bolts which passed through the head castings with exposed threaded ends. And, you guessed it, those bolts broke off in the head castings. So now I had to remove both cylinder heads and send them along with the manifolds to the local machine shop. By the time I was done, I had tied up the rack at the Goodyear store for 2 full days, and I now had a ton of time and lots of costs in the project. Some hero I was! 😒

     

    I was a 20-year-old kid at the time, and I had earned this new "Service Manager" position because I had shown an ability to generate sales, and to keep service dept customers happy. But the mechanics working there were older, and not fond of taking instructions from a "kid." Their snide humor and sneering grins made my misery in this project much the worse. But one thing about it... this situation became a good lesson that I NEVER forgot! 

    • Like 2
    • Haha 1
  16. 9 hours ago, stretch cab said:

    Newly married, going to college and broke is a good way to set this up.  Probably should say, not a mechanic either.  Had an older car that would do some crazy stuff when you pressed the gas pedal hard.  Motor would rev up and stay that way until you shut it off.  Wife did not like driving the car that way to say the least!

     

    My mechanic skills were maxed out immediately as this had to be a huge problem.  So, I took the car to a mechanic who was the son of an acquaintance/friend.  The verdict came back that I needed a valve job.  Didn't know what a valve job was but I did know I had a problem so I said, fix it.  Got the car back and the bill and still the car would stick wide open upon a rapid acceleration.  Now broker than before I decided to look at it myself and noticed the motor tipped up toward the passenger side, (if I remember right) and would lodge there until the ignition was turned off.  Upon a closer look it was evident the driver's side motor mount was broken.  I fixed that myself and all was well.

     

    Lesson learn: Try to do it yourself first and never trust a mechanic!  You might have to use one, but never blindly trust!

    Let me guess... mid 1960's small block Chevy V8? 

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