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lump

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Posts posted by lump

  1. My handle, "Lump," comes from a history of both lightheartedness and deep sadness; with memories both wonderful and horrible...and a sense of both personal inadequacy and personal pride. 

     

    My dad was a tall, very strong hardworking man. Widely respected by the sheet metal brothers he worked with as a skilled man who could be counted on every day, every time. He was strong as an ox; quiet, solid, and firm in his convictions. He had grown up with parents who both worked, including a father who was a very good industrial electrician....but also a physically abusive alcoholic. As a result Dad drank VERY little in his lifetime.

     

    The tough hard men Dad worked with liked him, and urged him every day to join at the bar after work, for "just one." He always agreed, to keep the peace, but NEVER showed up there. His first name was "Bill," and since he wouldn't drink with them, they gave him a good-natured nickname after a Red Skelton drunk character, "Willy Lump-Lump." The nickname stuck, but eventually was shortened to just "Lump." 

     

    I eventually earned an apprenticeship in the same union, and men who had worked with my dad instantly began calling me "Little Lump," or "Mini Lump." I didn't mind. He was a damn good man, and well-respected. I was actually proud of the handle. Then on October the 23rd, 1978 a truck driver crossed the center line and wiped out my entire family. It's a long, complicated story, which I'll leave alone for now. But before too long, I began to notice that all the guys I worked with were now simply calling me, "Lump." Slowly I began to feel a growing sense of pride, although I knew I could never measure up.

     

    Eventually, I got out of the trades, and launched a business in an entirely different field, which I knew nothing about. That was over 40 years ago. Hardly anyone knows me by "Lump" now. So I'm grateful to be able to use that handle here, among friends. 

     

    Thank you all, for that. 

    BillWirth_1969.jpg

    • Like 8
    • Thanks 8
  2. Quite a while ago I stumbled onto six Buick hubcaps at a yard sale, of all places. I normally ignore most hubcaps, but these looked familiar, and much older than what you usually see in an environment like that. 

     

    I'm really hoping the experienced folks here can tell me the correct application for these. 

     

    Thanks so much, in advance! 

    Buick hubcap  Lo Rez 2.JPG

    Buick hubcap Lo Rez 1.JPG

  3. I found this cool old pair of cowl lamps some time ago. It's always nice to find a pair, of course. And this pair still has both lenses, rims, reflectors, and rear jewels in place. I bought them planning to hang them in my den, along with radiator badges, brass horns, cast iron car toys, etc. But it occurred to me that someone might have the car, and really really need these. I have no idea what vehicle they may have been from. The large size (see tape measure in photos) makes me think of a big car. I am guessing from the late teens through the twenties. Does anyone recognize them at all? 

     

    Any help will be greatly appreciated. 

    Cowl Lights unknwn LO REZ 1.JPG

    Cowl Lights unknwn LO REZ 2.JPG

    Cowl Lights unknwn LO REZ 3.JPG

    Cowl Lights unknwn LO REZ 4.JPG

    Cowl Lights unknwn LO REZ 5.JPG

  4. I recently bought an estate collection of car badges, emblems, etc. Among them was a 2-piece lightweight sheet metal Buick emblem, with the word "AIR," riveted onto the main Buick crest badge. I have GUESSED that it might be for the in-car control unit for a very early Buick dealer-add-on air conditioning system. Is anyone familiar with this badge? 

    Buick unknown emblem Fbook 1.jpg

    Buick unknown emblem Fbook 2.jpg

  5. Hmmm...I've bought a LOT of very-rough "projects" over the years, but here is one good example. 

     

    When visiting family in Massachusetts, I encountered a back-yard unofficial salvage yard filled with vintage junked cars. I ventured onto the property, and soon met the owner. The timing was perfect, as he had just been battling local government over taxes and etc, and wanted to leave the state. He would indeed sell me the cars, but only if I bought ALL of them, in a package deal (another big story, for another time). Yes, I bought them, and spent the better part of three years hauling them out of there. One of the coolest cars there was also one of the roughest... a 1942 Ford convertible. But man, it was ROUGH!  

    Ford 1942 Convt 1 Lo Rez Fbook.jpg

    Ford 1942 Convt 2 Lo Rez Fbook.jpg

    Ford 1942 Convt 6 Lo Rez Fbook.jpg

    Ford 1942 Convt 9 Lo Rez Fbook.jpg

    • Like 3
  6. 7 hours ago, timecapsule said:

    I honestly don't mean to criticize, so I apologize if my thoughts come off that way,  but I find it difficult to imagine how one could not tighten on the wheel appropriately with this set up.  Tighten the nut as tight as possible, then if the cotter pin won't line up, tighten more until it slides through. That nut has to move a fair bit from one opening to the next.  If it's too loose it's detectible right away.  

    But for discussion sake, lets say the castle nut wasn't tight enough.  There would be a few detectible and obvious signs, I would think.  Even with the car on the ground, you would be able to move the top of the wheel in and out.  The other sign would be a badly damaged key and key way.  The other sign would be quite a shimmy as you drove the car. 

    I designed and made a special wheel puller for getting the wheel off.  I never found any pictures or illustrations as to what they used originally.  I have read and heard that if you didn't have the appropriate tool you would remove the cotter pin, loosen the castle nut maybe half a turn, and drive the car slowly for a short distance while cranking the steering wheel, until the wheel worked it's way loose.  That method seems a bit strange, because then you'd have to drive the car, into the shop or garage where you wanted to work on it, like that.  I would think over time that would put significant wear marks on the tapered pieces (axle & hub).

    Anyway, my point being that I have to use the wheel puller that I made to get the wheel off each time with significant effort, before the wheel breaks free from the axle.   I routinely pull all my wheels off to check on brake lining wear and just as a routine check on all the brake components.

    But I do appreciate your thoughts and experience. 

    No worries. I understand. 

     

    My experience with Dad's issue is firmly burned into my brain, because we had tried EVERYTHING else, to no avail. Dad took off the wheel, removed the cotter pin, and put some muscle into tightening that nut. Then he put in a new cotter pin, and like magic the problem was gone. And like I said before, Dad's old car buddies were a bit bewildered at the time, as none of them had ever experienced that problem/solution. I don't mean to suggest that your problem is exactly like Dad's, nor that tightening that nut will help at all. But it was the right solution all those years ago. And if I ever face a symptom like that, I'll absolutely have to try it for myself. 

     

    I sincerely hope you will be able to solve the problem, and when you do, we would all like to know the solution. Cheers. 

    • Like 2
  7. 16 hours ago, timecapsule said:

    Yes there is an axle nut.  But it is a castle nut with a cotter pin.  It has tapered axle ends on the rear like the front spindles with key/keyway front and back.    Awesome looking truck.  

    Dad's Model A truck also had a castle nut, cotter pin, and tapered axle ends, as I recall. Just offering thoughts on my one-time experience from over 50 years ago. 

     

    Good luck. Hope you find the solution. 

  8. Many years ago I helped my dad restore a 28 Model A pickup, which he then drove to work every day for a couple of years, year-round (even in the snow). Shortly after we first got it on the road, he had a very similar "clunk" upon take-off from a stop. Friends who were Model A experts gave us several things to try. We had that rear end out of the truck about a dozen times, but nothing worked. Finally, after a couple of weeks of wasted efforts, Dad sat on the ground looking at the undercarriage, and thought about it for a while. He then removed the right rear wheel, got a huge wrench, and tightened the axle nut. We put the wheel back on, and the "clunk" was gone! This solution came as a surprise to the local Model A Ford experts in our circle of car friends, as none of them had ever experienced that "clunk," nor Dad's fix.  

     

    Don't know if Hudsons even have a big nut on the end of the axle, though....🤔

    Model A Truck early 1970s 408 Alexander Dr 2.jpg

    • Like 1
  9. I recently bought a collection of emblems, metal data tags, and ornaments. I plan to post photos of them all, when I get them sorted. But this neat little Dodge emblem really caught my eye. It is smaller than a quarter, with a too-small-to-read maker's mark on back. The only letters I can make out are "CO." at the end of the top line, and "USA" at the end of the bottom line. It has a tiny very-short pin on back and appears to be based on chrome or nickel-plated brass. 

     

    I thought it might be a watch fob, and after reading the threads by Terry Bond and others of their fob collections, this intrigued me. But there is no place for a leather trap to be attached? 

     

    I'm sure that the vintage Dodge guys, like Keiser, or the emblem or fob guys will recognize it, and I'm looking forward to learning about it. 

     

    Thanks in advance! 

    Dodge small star emblem 1 Lo Rez.jpg

    Dodge small star emblem 2 Lo Rez.jpg

    • Like 1
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