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buicknewbee
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Posts posted by buicknewbee
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I have posted my 1975 Grand Lemans for sale in the general for sale ads here on the forums. It's a nice car with 17,500 actual miles for $12,500. Better description there. Looking at offers also but I think it's worth it and more.
Thanks
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Up for sale is a 1975 Grand Lemans with less than 17,600 actual miles. It's received a professional paint job three years ago in the original color, and looks absolutely fabulous! The kind of paint job that your reflection shows very well in. It drives like a new car because it basically is. The pictures speak for themselves. The car even has the original interior. The carpet shows practically no wear whatsoever. The top is original with no rips or tears, and the "I don't believe it" factor just goes on and on.
This Pontiac features a 350 with automatic trans.,
- factory AC,
- sport wheels wearing 5 new BF Goodrich tires with less than 100 miles,
- new battery,
- new exhaust,
- new brake calipers, cylinders, and lines
- new alternator
- new belts and hoses
- new radiator
- fuel pump
- and much more.
This is a solid clean car with no rust! It's hard to find these cars that aren't demolished or rusted out. Not many of these around, if you don't believe me look them up in all your old hemmings books.
I'm asking $12,500
I believe this to be a very reasonable amount for this quality of car, and you could probably even make money on this car at this price.
Located near Elida, Ohio. Email is really the best way to reach me at dchafin1122@gmail.com
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Well I haven't posted here in a very long time. Probably last year. I was at Auburn auction this weekend and met the gentleman that purchased the low mile 57 Buick special at a estate auction last year. Nice fella. The car was like a time warp. It showed exactly how my 57 Special should look. Mine is a long way off from his. After getting back home we decided to take the old girl out for a spin and purchase some flowers for the pots. Did ya know tomorrow is Mothers Day? I'll have a picture uploaded here eventually. Having issues.
This is not the better picture but it's the only one that I can get it to go through.
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Thanks for the reply. I figured it had something to do with my US postal snail company, but just wanted to make sure. Sadly it would be more hassle than it is worth I think.
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I just got my April Buick Bugle today and I was wondering if this is the norm? Is everyone else just getting theirs also? I just wondered because things such as events listed and some deadlines have already been or are close to expiring.
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I got my 57 special out today! Performed a little maintenance and drove it on two separate occasions today. It sure is a different ride compared to the boring mini-van or truck. About 75 degrees here today in mid-ohio.
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I thought I'd add to this thread since I had too had problems with my 57 special switch. I haven't had dash lights for a year or two now along with no park lights. I wasn't sure how to get the switch out fast so here is the way I did it today. I first removed the panel with the emergency brake light just below the light switch. That also required removing the vent wire to open the vent at the foot of the driver. Once this was out of the way the headlight switch was just visible enough to push the button holding the pull rod that went through the switch out. Then the nut could be screwed out with a large flat blade screw driver. The switch could then be pulled out.
It took me a while to figure out what was, or in this case, wasn't happening. Other than power to the headlights there wasn't any power to anything. So I knew the power wasn't getting through the switch properly. Also I could see a lot of green corrosion on the visible contacts. So I bead blasted it as someone had mentioned. I didn't like the idea of sand in the switch, but I didn't see any other way of cleaning it like it needed. It turned out not to bad. I blowed the sand out with compressed air as best as possible. I proceeded to check the continuity with a multi-meter from the power lead through the rest of the contacts. Still nothing from the power lead through the breaker which was the flat piece of steel with a points like contact. So I filed it with a points file. Now I got contact through that, but again still nothing to the park lights or the reastat. So again I found both contacts behind the reastat not making contact with my multi-meter. I tried to clean them, and they were clean but just weren't touching in the right manner to get a good contact. Touch and go from time to time. So I soldered them together. Had great contact then, but the next guy wasn't going to be able to take the thing apart. LOL
Everything worked great after that, or I should say the switch worked as it should. Then I spread just a light coat of dialectic grease over all the exposed contacts to keep it from further oxidation. It worked much smoother also. Check the wiring and check to see that the lights work now before assembly. I then reassembled the switch back into the dash and everything works great now. I drove it for the first time at night tonight in a long time. I see now that several bulbs are out. Maybe tomorrow.
I hope this helps someone out in the future!
Darren
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The straight eight guys would know better but at some point there was a switch from poured Babbitt bearings to bearing inserts. I think you want to be on the bearing insert side of that split. Also it seems that the intakes on the straight eight is prone to cracking, although I do not know if that is just for older cars than you are looking for.
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Great tips I wasn't aware of. I read where the bearings were changed mid year in 1949. The 1948 engines were first married to the Dynaflow also. I think I'd prefer the Dynaflow over a three on the tree. I may have narrowed my search a little.
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It also happens with new cars at dealerships. Late Sept, early Oct. of 1966 my older sister decided she wanted a new car. Nothing fancy, just an unadorned car for basic transportation. I went to a dealer in Covington, VA and looked at a '66 Nova. They wanted about $50 less than the sticker price and they would not budge. Went home and the car was listed on the back page of the newspaper for almost $400 less than the sticker price. That was the price they were willing to sell for at noon but not at 3:30 that afternoon. Took her to Roanoke, VA and we looked at several cars. Made a deal for a Dodge Aspen and then were told the car was sold and they tried to put us in a used car with transmission problems. Told them no thank you. Went to a Chevy place and the salesman sent us to look a Nova Sedan. It had a huge dent in the right front fender where someone got careless backing the car off the carrier. We went into his office and made a deal. He'd put the car in the body shop Thursday and it would be ready to pick up on Friday. Nothing was ever said about a deposit but when he asked her how she wanted to finance the car she told him she would bring him a check for the full amount Friday. This was on Wednesday night. We walked out out of the showroom late that night and the salesman turned off the lights and locked the door behind us. We went to my car and he went to his car, talking as we went. Called him Friday to see if the car was ready and he said we didn't give him a deposit and someone came into his office after we left (lie! He left when we did) and gave him a deposit on the car and it was in the shop being fixed for them. Said to come back and we'd find something else. I have never been back to that place. She found something else, at a Ford dealership. Sorry guys, I had a senior moment when I was writing this. It was in 1976, not 1966. Recalled what a '66 Nova looked like and it was instantly, Me Bad!
I guess through all the years car salesmen have been let down so many times that they have just learned to sell to the one who first shows up with payment. Not quite the same situation since he said it was just after you left, but a gentleman's serious interest isn't worth much anymore.
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I have always liked the lines and style that a 57 Chevrolet convertible has but they just seem to be more and more non-obtainable. I have given some thought to adding a post war Buick convertible next to my 57 Special. The problem is, It's not every day that you see post war Buicks to observe them and notice details that are important when buying one like the 57 Chevrolet. The Chevrolets are all over the place, not to mention just about any book and part is available to help you to decide which model and state of repair would be best for you.
Although I'm certain I don't want a project car, I still would like to be advised of certain problem areas and traits to look for in a post war Buick. I'm also certain that this group will do just about anything to keep me from purchasing a Chevrolet, which is just about considered as a four letter word here I'm sure.
So what I'm thinking about are the fire ball eight years after 1946 to 1952. While the convertibles are still expensive I think they aren't quite as sought after as the 50s convertibles, and I have seen a few that aren't restored (which isn't what I'm after in the first place) for 30-40k. I'm looking for a car that is roadworthy and would make it to a show without having to worry about being stranded. Now I know anything can happen with an old car.
I am certain that I want a solid car and nothing that looks like it is full of filler, and I feel confident that I can spot that out, but what other types of things should I look for? What typically goes wrong with this era? What about parts? Are there parts that just don't exists if they aren't bought with the car? If the motor isn't rebuilt, what typical problems do they have? Are there certain things mechanically that aren't factory, but add value because of a known factory defect (such as a better oil pump)?
I'm all ears.
Thanks,
Darren
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Thanks Matt for the kind words!
Darren
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Buicknewbee, why don't you let us know what your dream car(s)
is (are)? Maybe, just maybe, someone here can help.
Consider this a WANTED ad!
I just know that many of you are going to role your eyes when I tell you, but here it is, a 57 Chevy Belair convertible! My idea of the perfect 57 chevy would be in original condition (Not restored, or body off) with perhaps just necessary maintenance performed over the years. A professional repaint would be ok as long as it wasn't peeling and chipping all over the place, but that makes it harder to spot rust and rot issues which brings me to a must. A must (which is near impossible to find especially on a convertible) would be a solid car with little or no rot. I'd rather have a car with paint issues rather than rot issues. Paint issues don't bother me at all since I am capable of resolving them, but I'm not looking for a project car either. My kids don't give me that much time. My color of choice would be either tropical turquois, harbor blue, or larkspur blue with a white power top, brakes, steering, and a powerglide transmission.
Three years ago I was thinking about a 57 chevy hardtop, and then I got to thinking about a convertible. I started to look at prices and there was just no way at that time. Actually, I had no idea if I'd even like to drive a convertible. I thought maybe I should look at perhaps another GM convertible. Yeah right! LOL there was still no way I would have one anytime soon to even realize if I liked the idea of driving with the top down. So I was just about to throw the idea out the window until Matt Harwood presented the idea of a 48 Plymouth convertible. He had one in his inventory for sale. Long story short we bought the car for less than half of what a gm convertible was going for. And heck, we could have fun with the kids and see if we did indeed like to ride in a classic convertible. The wife and I just adored the little car, and still to this day enjoy it frequently. Now that I know I like to ride in a classic convertible I am ready to take the plunge and get the car that I have always wanted. But the competition is just krazy! The last year has proved very hard to realize such a dream. Until this last car I didn't know if I would still even find what I'm looking for and willing to pay. But I'm thinking it was my chance and I blew it. Again, maybe it's time to re-think the 57 chevy convertible and maybe think or at least have an open mind towards another blue convertible of the same time period.
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The dealership I speak of was near Tampa. I won't name them because I don't think one instance is a reason to give them a bad reputation, and I think Tampa probably has many dealerships to avoid picking one out. The car I missed was in Lake Mary or something like that near Orlando. My nana and grandpaw had a place in Zephyrhills near Dade city. Nice location! Been there. I miss the opportunity to go down whenever I got the urge.
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To my surprise I feel much better after writing this story up and hearing all the different approaches others have taken or not towards buying a classic car. It is a relieve to hear that others would have acted in the same manner that I did. I will certainly take this advice that all of you have provided me with and see if I can apply it in my next purchase.
Some questions have developed that I did not address. The car was indeed picked up the day that I had planned to look the car over, and I did follow up on the car (Friday the 10th) to see that the buyer had indeed showed up the day that he promised the owner he would. So I did make sure that the car did sell.
Indecently, the car that I had interest with on ebay was just as the gentleman Bhigdog experienced. It was so far from the description that I was just shocked. It was a total scam the dealership was pulling. I distinctly remember asking the salesman if any panels has been replaced on the car. He said he couldn't be sure, well let me tell you, if he couldn't genuinely see that the car had some panel replacement on the car then he had no business in that line of work. There was so much undercoating and bondo on the car it must have weighed an additional 200 pounds. They were asking a premium for the car too! I am sure someone probably got took on that car, but I'm glad it wasn't me.
That said, apparently I am going to have to broaden my idea of my dream car. It is just to desirable and expensive to have a good chance at acquiring one. There have been other cars recently that I did give a second look at that I didn't before, but I just wasn't ready to part with the money set aside for the car I really wanted. I think I'm ready now to have an open mind.
Thanks gents!
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I don't know why I'm writing this other than maybe writing my frustration in this forum will somehow help me cope with my disappointment. A heads up here, my grammar is not the best, but I think you will get my story.
A little over a week ago I called about another car that has long been a dream of mine (two other cars I was planning to look at ended up with this very same scenario). I couldn't believe that it wasn't sold and it was exactly what I have been looking for. The other two cars were close, but not like this past car. After talking with the owner for about half an hour discussing the vehicle I was very stern about viewing the car before I would purchase it, but explained I was certain I'd buy the car if everything was as it was stated in the ad. I also told them that I would give them a call after I had made arrangements to get off work to go and inspect the car. Unfortunately, I live in Ohio and the car was located in Florida, so taking off for work was going to be a challenge because we are busy this time of year, not to mention Easter was that weekend also. I was able to arrange time off to go look at the car on a last minutes notice. Great!! I was pumped and looking forward to the trip. Last Sunday night (Easter) I called the owner to tell them of my plans to see the car only to find out the car was purchased sight unseen the day after I called about the car. This isn't the car I've been looking for, but the way it was purchased was much like this car was F/S 1959 Plymouth Fury Sport Coupe Factory ICE COLD A/C So I ended the call very disappointed that I didn't do more, but what could I have done?
About five years ago I was looking at purchasing what I thought might have been my dream car off ebay. This car was also in Florida (BTW I'm not thinking much of this state right now) LOL, anyway I went down to look at the car before the auction was up, WOW what a piece of crap. I was glad I didn't buy the car sight unseen. It would have been a big mistake that I probably would have never recouped from.
I believe this past car was purchased by another dealer only to have the price jacked up to the point where it is out of my reach. The owner said that the gentleman wouldn't be able to pick the car up until next Friday (which happened to be the day that I'd arrive) because he had another car to pick up during the week. Now I don't condemn the dealer for making a living, but how is a 40 year old with a job and family supposed to compete with these type of tactics if you will? I am just literally tired of trying to be the first to look at the ads, be the first to call, searching the web for the car that I'd like to own. There are thousands of these cars out there, but it sure does seem impossible to purchase the one I'd like.
I don't expect everyone to understand or relate, but I find it hard to believe that I'm the only one with these experiences.
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A gentleman from Texas has offered me the bracket I needed. Thanks!
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I'm still interested in buying the air cleaner bracket that supports the snorkel on the air cleaner. The bracket is located just behind the fan and also supports the fuel filter in the picture above.
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I'm interested in buying a air cleaner bracket like the one in the attached picture. It may also support the fuel filter.
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Thanks for the response.
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I have a 57 buick that the previous owner pulled the original air cleaner off and installed a cheap paper air cleaner. Luckily he kept the original air cleaner and I'm working to install it. My problem is a missing bracket. There is a bracket hanging from the bottom of the air cleaner snorkel, but there is nothing to attach it to. It's like there is another bracket that the snorkel bracket bolts to. Does anyone have a picture of this bracket? Mine is missing. I have just a regular two barrel carb if that makes a difference as far as the intake is concerned. Any help appreciated.
Thanks
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I found one that may work. I'm going to have to wait to see it when it arrives.
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I am interested in replacing the hole in my dash with the original style emergency brake idiot light. Mine is missing and I'd like to find one in decent driver condition. I'm looking for the light housing and socket assembly for a 57 buick. It's located just left of the steering column. Any help appreciated.
Thanks,
Darren
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Willie,
Yes that's the right pages. If you look in the bottom right of page three it says if the engine will not stop cranking see paragraph 10-9. Then looking at 10-9 it says to ground generator terminal A which I did and found the cause.
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I messed with the car tonight. I have figured out somewhat where the problem lies, but I still haven't isolated it to where I know what the problem is. First I'll explain what I did. I figured out the last time that if the A terminal is grounded to the frame (as the service manual explains), the starter solenoid didn't act up and keep the starter cranking after the motor was running. The battery is in tiptop shape. I already run the file over the points in the regulator so that would somewhat be out of the picture as best as possible.
Now what I did tonight was disconnect the wires from the A & F terminals on the generator. turned the key on and nothing. So I connected the A terminal back up and proceeded to hit the start button. Eureka!! It started just as it should with no starter issues. I did this several times with the starter performing just like it should. Then while the motor was running I attempted to attach the wire that was disconnected from the F terminal. Guess what? The solenoid kicked in! I tried it again and the solenoid kicked the starter in again while the engine was running. So I feel fairly confident that the Starter, solenoid, starter relay, and my start button are trouble free.
My issues evidently are with either the generator or the regulator. I removed the generator to look it over. Looking at it, it didn't look bad. It wasn't overly dirty inside. The commutator looked to be clean and the ribs weren't filled up. The brushes looked to be in good shape with little wear. I proceeded to check the case with a multimeter looking for a short between the case and the innards. I forget what results I got but according to the book it seemed good as far as that can go. I figure at this point I have three options.
1. install it back on the car since I have looked at the innards and check it out per the book trouble shooting. I'm limited on checking charge rate because I'm afraid the starter will interfere with checking the charge rate. But if I do have a problem with it there isn't a local shop to service it. I'd have to send it to get it serviced which would likely cost $50 at least just to ship it.
2. I can also replace the regulator, but I've heard the newer regulators are junk compared to the old ones.
3. Just install a alternator and get it over with. I'm sure everyone will agree that they charge far superior over a generator when taking into account over charge with lights on and off and still charge even while at an idle.
I'm sure everyone has there own idea but I'm leaning towards an alternator.
For Sale - 1975 Pontiac Grand Lemans
in Automobiles and Parts - Buy/Sell
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