dibarlaw
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Posts posted by dibarlaw
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Robin:
I will go thru my notes on this car. I had contacted the childeren of the original restorer who owned the car from the 1950s when it was restored into the 1990s. The gentelman who was selling the car said it was his step-father's. As you can see at the time it still had a Michigan historical plate attached. The car was located on their farm at Belle Vernon, PA. Photos from the original sale ad below. When we were to come for a test drive they said it was running and driveable. The original asking price was $32,000. Which they indicated was recomended by a broker. When we arrived things were partially dissasembled (hoses off of the water pump) and one could tell it had not run for many years. So apparently they towed the car out for the photos. They also indicated that 2nd gear was problematic. We offered $16,000 as it sat. I kept in touch for several months. After about a mounth he sent me a horribly distorted video to prove that they got it running. Then it was sold to a local owner in the South western PA. area. It went to a shop out side of Uniontown PA. (Skip Seaton's) to be sorted out to participate in a local tour. On tour 2nd gear failed and that is all I heard of the car until it showed up at the Hershey flea market.
I have seen some images of the car in some 1950s issues of the AACA Antique Automobile Magazine. It should also be on Glidden Tour Roles.
I would have to check some of my old posts to find the nice color photo taken of this car at a car show back in the late 1950s.
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Currently for sale in this month's Buick Bugle I believe for $59,900.
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EmTee
Still twitch about many cars but reality always stops the twitching. I only have a 2 car garage housing 2 cars and I am still renting a space several blocks away for the other 1925 Buick. Also the 1925 Master seems to have potentially a very expensive belly ache, which to cure would be the newly listed price of the 1948 Oldsmobile.
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Hugh I will also measure mine for the 1925-25. The stancheon pins are 42" center to center. The first photos you show are for the "FrankenBuick". Which I believe were 44" pin to pin on the stancheons as is my 1925 Master. The Master upper window has a verticle chanel for a weather strip while us poor Standard owners had none.
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Not as early as a 1917 but he has extensive information on these Oldsmobile systems in his thread.
1921 Oldsmobile Model 46 - I ask myself, Why?
By Stude Light
March 30, 2022 in Our Cars & Restoration Projects -
Charles: Thank you. Now we know exactly what you are looking for. Just the 2 piece inner windscreen.
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Sorry Leif. I just read the post text and did not go back to the title.
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We need to know if it is a Standard or Master. The windshield/screen frame is 2" larger on the Master.
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Pete:
It was a joy for me to judge it at the 2014 BCA national at Portland.
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Good luck Walt.
I tried to redo my "35 bucks" and just got it to barely work. On mine the motor appears to not spinning fast enough to get enough air to flow.
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Recently found Model 39 in Maine Museum.
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Also a concern I had with transfering family 8mm film and photos into VHS and then into DVD to preserve. Ads on the radio about preservation services. Then the digital camera came along with SD cards. Then storing them onto flash drives. Now I have corrupted flash drives and SD cards!
The only things I have left are the original photos and 8mm films.
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For me, even though my Master wheels were varnished the 50 year old finish still needed to be freshened up. I do not like just varnished spokes. My opinion.
The wheel of a 1924-45 I bid on in 2010. The hub nuts were originally nickel plated.
How I did my 1925 Master.
The 1924 Model 55 Sport touring with correct striping. Varnished wheel spokes and red spear stripes are correct for the Sport models.. Double stripe on felloe. Car is now owned by Tim Turvey.
This 1924 model 45 was restored in the 1980s. Different striping on painted wheel spokes. Then it was re-restored in Re-Sale red. They stipped the spokes.
Either natural or painted the felloe and hub was usually the same as body color.
Again, as discussed it is up to you.
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Local Mason-Dixon member has one of these. Mostly original. Also one had a long distance trip from Virgina at the 2012 BCA natioal in Concord NC.
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At this moment it is over $9,000. Another Buick Buddy (who is working on a 1914 B-24) on the Brass Buicks Group site sent me a link to the auction from last summer where it sold for a bit over $5,000. In that auction it was listed as a 1915 C-24.
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Larry Schramm also sent me this link. One of my many "enablers". I will state that it is probably a 1915 C-25 not a 1914.
Looks to have been resurected back in the 1950s. Non-Skids and stripped wheel spokes along with the cream colored upholstery.
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Most of the touring car tops I had examined over the years looking for the correct set for my 1925 Buick Standard seemed to be around 58" for the rear bow outside width. My 1925 Master is 58" at the rear.
The older (probably a 1922 or 1923 for model 45) cut down top I had on my car.
This top has 58" width bows front to back. Much too wide at the front.
The top shows as too wide and too tall.
.jpg.516d46af58796e7cfe381c1f1f83f407.jpg)
The correctly sized new bows.
The newly fabricated sockets.
There should be someone here with a 1917 -1919 which I believe are the same to chime in.
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Brian:
Best of luck sorting this out. I know with my 3 old Buicks it took quite a few side of the road events to finally get things sorted out and I was able to have some confidence in getting home. Only on a rollback 3 times so far. That was with all 3 cars. The other times it was within a mile or so. Then a tow strap and my 1987 Chevy S-10. Last time was one mile away so a walk back home and return with a gallon of gas got me and my 1925 home.
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I used to love to visit the decrepit Limited when it was at the Huntington, PA. Swigart Musem back in the corner.
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I made a driver to remove the liner from my Master riser. A few good raps and it moved down past the top bore. But it started to collapse at the bottom where it was rusted. So my only option was to try to crush what was inside with a variety of things in my shop. I was able to carefully cut the bottom ring that was left of the liner. It took about an hour to carefully the crush liner so as to not damage the bores. Also the bolts that connect the back of the riser to the exhaust manifold snapped off.
I was able to center accurately and drill out in steps and with some fine drifts I had made I was able to remove the bolts and save the threads.
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Lot of assorted 1925 Buick parts including gauges, hood latches, and more
Auction currently on Ebay. Here is a set of hood latches I know some are looking for.
US $20.00Ends in 5d 23hFriday, 08:23 AMCondition:For parts or not workingFor parts or not working“I assume gauges will need work due to age and condition. Other parts have surface rust.” -
Yes these are very nice vehicles. The AACA museum has a 1926-51 that was donated as a partial restoration.
Myself and others volunteered to work on it but COVID shut the project down.
Below. The late Bill Sullivan's Model 51 at the Denver BCA National 2018
1927 Model 51 Brougham at Hershey HPOF class in 2019
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Check and see if there is very much play between the shaft and the hub. Failure is manifested by the fan going through the radiator! This was a common issue with Buicks into the early 1930s. These have been adapted for sealed bearings since the 1970s when there was a diagram posted in the Buick Bugle magazine. I made adapters for both my Standard and Master. "BOB's" should still have them available.
First I tried to make new bushings to re-fit to the hub.
It did not work out for me. So, I made a complete adapter. A lot of machining to be done on the 4" Dia.X4" long piece of aluminum.
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Hugh:
What is in the spare 1925 Master riser as close as I can measure is 1.587 O.D. 1.512 I.D. length is 5 7/8". Much larger than our standard riser liner.
I set up a vacuum gage for my Master and found it to be at 17" vacuum the best I can dial in at the carb. To me it still needs some timing revision and dwel adjustment. But no matter how I adjust the system it idles much too fast. The only way I can slow it down to a reasonable RPM is to retard the spark. The stop screw on the throttle is all the way out. So I will have to check if the former owner bent the butterfly plate. Or if the smaller diameter riser lining has the same effect.
Pete:
Recently found Model 39 in Maine Museum.
The 1924 Model 55 Sport touring with correct striping. Varnished wheel spokes and red spear stripes are correct for the Sport models.. Double stripe on felloe. Car is now owned by Tim Turvey.
This 1924 model 45 was restored in the 1980s. Different striping on painted wheel spokes. Then it was re-restored in Re-Sale red. They stipped the spokes.
.jpg.516d46af58796e7cfe381c1f1f83f407.jpg)
Buick Clutch Replacement in 1924 - How Much?
in Buick - Pre War
Posted
Hey Ed..... that sounds like places I worked in.
Working on the clutch replacement for the 1925 Buick in my "IMPROVED" side of the garage with broom finished concrete.
Reinstalling the rear axle on my 1937 Buick after a 25-year-long clutch replacement. Gravel floor with boards and plywood. "UNIMPROVED" side of the garage. So much fun. And some time the bushes alongside of the garage come into play....