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Posts posted by dibarlaw
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Charles:
It has been over 3 years and I still have not gotten around to installing the bows to the new irons.
Mel Draper is located in Jeromesville Ohio. I was able to pick up a very rough set of 1924 model 35 4 cylinder sockets.
Still, the sizes of the individual sections did not match what Hugh Leidlein sent me as far as dimensions. Mel was able to use many of the cast parts salvaged from them. otherwise the cost would have been much more to get those pieces fabricated.
Where are you located?
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Also check out this thread below from Hubert 25-25. Hugh sent me all his information from the measurements of his original top Including full scale drawings of the bows for templates.
No Convertible top, No problem - 1920's Buick missing top bows and sockets 12
By Hubert_25-25, September 4I found the image of the concern in Aus that I checked out. -
I responded to you on the Buick site.
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Glenn:
From the terms you are using I assume that you are not anywhere me in the USA.
I had my socket assembly and Bows (hoops) made by a gentleman in OHIO. I did check with a concern in NZ. or Aus. They gave me an estmate of $2,300 AU. for the sockets. Of course then the cost of shipping to the USA. 3 years ago the sockets and bows cost me a bit over $550.US.
I still have not gotten around to building up the proper top assembly.
My car still with the too tall, cut down set from an older larger Buick. Possibly from a 1921 or 1922 model 45.
One of the several weld points.
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Kevin:
Thanks for the good rear axle cap photo. My issue on my 1925 Standard is that right side riveted guide plate on the axle tube. It had loosend up and oil leaks from it. It will drip from the lower cap and also ends up running down the stay rod and ending up at the low point. Of course if it does not leak somewhere it is not a 1920s Buick. The drivers side is fine.
Photos taken when I had to redo my clutch. Things had been cleaned up and painted since then.
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22 hours ago, Jack Bennett said:
Hi AM, diberlaw…….I am left agape by how well a set of whitewalls can accentuate a otherwise absolutely beautiful car which needs no accentuation to be absolutely beautiful.
So, the long ago thread on the forum comes to mind as I work on the 1929 Fargo Express Panel I recently adopted.
I keep a 1923 DB Roadster, a 1927 Willys Knight and a 1951 Plymouth I’m my stable, and all have white wall tires.
Thanks to the humanity of a fellow AACA member, I just bought four new tires for the Fargo, and they too are whitewalls.
My dilemma here is that the Fargo will eventually be finished in its originally intended form as a work truck, and I don’t think they used whitewall tires on delivery trucks in 1929.
So, while I work on the truck, and have to continually look at the wheels, I put one whitewall on the front, and one black wall on the back so that I could decide which to use.
What do you think?
Jack:
The selection of the whitewalls on the 1925 Master was not my choice but that of the previous owner back in about 1980! That was when his home owner Harry restoration was finished up with farmed out upholstery and top. The tires are still uncracked and with hardly any tread wear. I believe blackwalls would look very good depending on the attention given to the restoration on the wheels and rims.
The day I picked up the car in 2016. The white? wall of the left front tire, no matter how it is scrubbed or bleached quickly turns back to brown. The former owner stripped the wheels, varnished them then painted the rims it seems with white house paint. When I had the rear rims powdercoated the white paint fell off looking like potato chips. These cars were advertized in factory literature with white walls mainly to emphasize the fact that Buick had moved to lower pressure Balloon tires.
You can see how correct striping can really accentuate the effect of the wheels/tires. For the 1925-45 it is to be Cobalt Blue and Ivory stripe.
The 1925 Standard to be Brewster Green with Red stripe. Now that I have redone the spare tire carrier I can move forward and replace the incorrect wheels on the Standard"Beulah" whith these that I did several years ago.
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Assembled and painted.
Also trying to finish up the rear axle work on my 1925 Buick Master Touring. I have 2 out of the 4 wheels done.
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Now with the change in the season my 1925 Standard Touring "Beulah" is living in a building down the street.
I can still get her out within a half hour. Wife Joan is now happy that her 2020 Envision is in the 1925's place for the winter.
Notice that this side has a concrete floor. In back of this side of the garage is the 113 year old 13"X36" W.F&J Barnes Lathe operating from a line shaft.
On the other side is my current project my 1925 Master Touring "Remley".
We have been here for 38 years. For 25 of those years my 1937 Buick sat there waiting to be returned to the road. Now gone since a T-bone accident in 2021. So I never got around to pouring a concrete floor on that side. Just wood planks and scrap plywood over gravel to provide a work surface.Even with the less than an adequate floor surface I still have an occasion to make some progress.
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Well after repainting the garage roof
I got back to Buick work. The 1925 Buick standard spare tire carrier as purchased at Hershey.
After dissasembly and Electrolysis bath.
After straightening/truing.
Now final bodywork.
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I have several photos of this car since I believe it is in the AACA museum.
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Steve:
I worked at Sedney Olds in Charleroi, PA in late 1974-1975. I had put a downpayment on visualy the same car as you have. I believe Mr. Sedney was giving it to me $50 over cost. I could handle the payments of what I had to finance. I believe I was up to $4.25/hr. detailing new and used cars but..... my insurance at the time would have been over $1,000. I had to call off the deal. I drove my 1969 Buick LeSaber Convertible for 4 more years.
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It's Novenber and I have not put the top up yet! I usualy put it up in October and down in May. Did another 25 miles around the area this weekend. Leaves are still holding on.
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Hugh:
That was one of the issues with the "Tribute" 1925-25S Sport touring at the R/M auction. They took the regular stancheons, drilled and tapped them and used Model A brackets. At least on the car you are working on it appears that the stancheons are correct. They do show the integral cast bosses for bracket mounting.
This is what the 1927-54 or 55 set up was to look like.
Original paint, top, upholstery, plating etc....Windshield frame was not plated.
Below.. Over the top model 54 restoration example.
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Barbara Wiegand wife of Terry was killer in a car accident Tuesday November 7th. Obituary below.
B
Obituary | Barbara Sue Wiegand of South Hutchinson, Kansas
arbara Sue Wiegand
October 3, 1956 - November 7, 2023
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Fred:
I did block off the heat for my 1925 systems. Once I finally dialed everything in, my Marvel carbs seem to work adequately. After years of constantly dinkering with the carb it seems to be at a happy place.
I have kept a Vacuum gage connected to monitor operation. It has been at 19" Vu steady at idle for over 4 months. Gage shown at lower corner of windshield frame. Pointer on gage at 19" at idle prior to turning out of the parking lot.
About 14" Vu at aprox 30mph on level road. Gage shown at lower corner of windshield frame. 10"-14 " at speed.
Since installing the Hugh Renu AC speedometer in January prior to getting "Beulah" back on the road for the season I have put over 800 miles on the car. I have been thrilled not having had to touch adjustment in that time period.
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First OldCar I purchased at the age of 15 was this 1937 International D-2 Pick up from the original owner.
It was only 34 years old at the time. The owner had a feed store and warehouse. The truck was always stored inside. It had no rust and even the bed had very minimal damage. It had great original paint. He kept meticulious service records from new and even had the seat bottom rehupolsterd before he took it out of service around 1960. He kept it and traded his 1936 Plymoth truck on a 1952 International 3/4 ton. I wish I knew where it finally ended up.
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On my 1925 Buick Standard there was an accessory "Sunshade" not a visor. I had one made up and it does help with the top down.
On the Master series touring and roadsters it was part of the windshield design.
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Near me one of our Mason/Dixon members had been trying to get $13,000 for his well maintained 63 Skylark Convertible. A solid #3 car. It did not sell at his clean out auction with that $13K as a reserve and as of several months agao he still had it.
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Yes Gary the One Shot was expensive. The ivory for my 1925 Buick Master wheels was $39.00 here in the US plus it was shipped it in a box 40 times the size of the 4 oz. container. That added anothe $14. in shipping.
I used the Beugler Striper for the felloes and made templates for the spokes.
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My experience is with my (2)1925 Buicks. My evaluation was tempered with my experience with my 1937 100 HP Buick sedan after 10,000 miIes of driving. With several long term 2,000-3,000 mile round trips. Truly as Ed indicated this era are more like the technology up thru 1970. I am still sorting out my car after 12 years of ownership. Only untill the components are united as a whole can one adequately evaluate. The 50 HP 191 Cu.In. rebuilt engine has (after much tweaking) finally seems to perform as intended. My recient 300 mile round trip to our BCA Tri-Regional provided what still needs to be done.
While leading a tour It powered up a steep, switch back Dureya Drive outside of Reading PA. in high.
At the Pagoda overlook. Also on a 55 mph section of route 30 pulling a 3 mile hill west of Gettysburg at a consistant 45 MPH without losing power. The vacuum tank kept up nicely. This cannot be done with a quick tour around the block or a Veterans Day parade. Power now seems adequate but the transmission feels worn and the rebuilt multi-plate clutch chatters badly. Double clutching technique is somewhat opposite of some other accounts. Double clutching on up shift (Buick still had the reverse shift patern) when cold and not needed when warm. Ususally a count of 2 will assure a silent shift. Once in a while I can effect a good Quiet down shift.
The 4 wheel brakes are a bit more assuring if properly set up. But being external bands it got exciting in the rain on my way home from the meet. An exciting moment came when I was holding back in 3rd gear going down a 3 mile hill into Reading. The transmission popped out of 3rd gear! The brakes got a workout for the last mile or so to the bottom. Going downhill in high I now rest my hand on the shift lever.
The split rims are not as round as they should be and the car has a slight "hop" at speed.
Steering is light and faily responsive. Although I will need to replace a kingpin soon. All under 5 mph turning is a chore in non power assist cars. Driving the car for over 3 hours with out stopping in a variety of conditions. Highway, innercity stop and go hills, rain and unconcerned drivers (Not all drivers give "Thumbs Up") gave me a new perspective on my "Beulah" driving experience.
Driving on the old Lincoln Highway from Columbia to Wrightsville. Heading toward rain clouds near York PA.
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Saturday was a great 80 degree day here in South central PA.
An overnight cooling off and rain brought down most of these leaves.
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80 degrees yesterday here in south central PA. Last good day with fall colors.
Leaves are falling fast today.
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Morgan
Try driving any open vehicle in the snow belt below 40 degrees and one readily will find out. Modern fabrics and themal linings were well into the future.
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Hugh:
It looks like I will have to redo the bowdrill on my Master since all they did was tack the seam on the top of the bow. Those nail heads from 1980 are wearing into the inner linining of the top material.
NOT MINE - 1918 Buick e 45 For Sale in Harleysville, PA - $8500
in "Not Mine" Automobiles For Sale
Posted
Truly a shame about how these cars are stored after they have been restored and left to sit for many years. Also sad about the torn top.
The one photo probably from the 1970s shows new paint, tires, and top.