McCargar

Its been about 3 years since the '27 standard has been moved under it's own power. In an attempt to move it the other day I found that the clutch was seized. My question, is there an easy fix to free up the clutch? I tried rocking it in gear with the clutch depressed to no avail.

I Think I’ve solved a problem that has bugged me for a while now. How to have a vacuum tank fuel system with the reliability of an electric pump but still maintain gravity flow to the carburetor? So if anyone is interested here is what I came up with. I started by taking the vacuum tank float system apart and removing the vacuum shaft and the breather vent shaft. I then drilled a hole in the top where the vacuum shaft was to the correct size, which will be threaded for the seat of the needle and seat. (I just used the needle and seat out of an old Carter carb.) Two things to be aware of; don’t drill the hole for threading too deep as to effect the threads of the vacuum port and the seat should not be too long or the existing float shut off system won’t work properly. Next on the arm that held the vacuum shaft I threaded the hole where the vacuum shaft was to accept a 3/16(#12) X 24 bass adjustment screw. Use a #6 X 32 X 1.5” brass screw for a stop adjustment which replaces the breather vent shaft as a stop. The nut on the #6X1.5” screw had to be rounded for clearance. This screw is not secured tightly but left loosey goosey (A technical term) to allow for the movement of the arm. Put it all back together, make the necessary adjustments, lock tight the threads and move the fuel inlet to the vacuum port. What you end up with is a great big external carb float bowl that gravity feeds the carb.

I don't know if Canadians can apply but it might be worth watching.

Thanks Mark I had forgotten about the 50/50 mix which I will try. I've been using WD-40 for the last couple of weeks without results. I don't think I can get needle nose pliers at it as the broken piece is down in the tumbler. Wayne

I’m looking for some help in removing the cylinder from the transmission lock on a 1927 Buick. Someone broke the key off in the lock and there doesn't seem to be any way of removing the key stub without taking the cylinder out. I slacked off the set screw and got some movement in the cylinder but there seems to be other forces holding it in. Wayne

Thanks Larry they are just what I need

Is there anyone that is reproducing the little gears at the bottom of the steering column for the spark and throttle controls on a 1927 model 2727 4 dr Standard? Wayne

I had to replace it with a little newer one (1930). It took a few modifications but works well.

Like I said I can’t vouch for its authenticity. It’s on a Canadian made ‘27 in our club with a Bud body. Some times Chrysler had leftover parts from the previous year and shipped them to Canada to be used on the new models so we can never be that sure of things.</SPAN>

This is a cowl light on a '27 model 50but I can’t vouch for its authenticity.

Yes it is a '28 model 52. The vertical belt lines on the back were welded in 28. Looking at it closely it only has two wheel mechanical brakes as well. (4 wheel hydraulic an option on the 52 in '28)

Send me your e-mail address. Wayne

Steve if dave doesn't have the part I may have found one.

I do not have what you need but try Dave dnpollock@shaw.ca I'm sure he dose.

It appears that your brake drum is not broken. The spline for the transmission is. The spline that fits the tranny has three lobes that match the three holes in the brake drum and is similar to the end of the driveshaft. The sequence of assembly would be the tranny spline, the brake drum, the fiber u-joint and then the driveshaft (bolted to the opposite 3 holes in the u-joint). </SPAN>

Regarding the intake manifold needed. Dave at this e-mail address has one. dnpollock@shaw.ca

Looking for a good usable pitmen arm to fit a 60/70 series 1928 Chrysler. The spline hole is 1 1/8” to 1 ¼” </SPAN>

Thanks for the reply. I have changed all the bushings and bearings (which helped a bit) but it's must have had a hard life as the worm gear and the pittmun arm are worn beyond repair.

As far as I know this is the firewall tag on Canadian made.

These are the only pictures I have of the steering box.

I am looking for an in good shape Steering box that will fit or come close to fitting a 1928 Chrysler model 52

Ian if your looking for a harder rubber to make parts out of try a hockey puck. They respond well to a lathe, milling machine and even a die grinder. Wayne

Yes there are both passenger side doors. send me your e-mail address and I will send pictures tomorrow (if it stops raining). I'm on ancouver Island. Wayne

I am just about finished restoring a 1928 model 52 and have acquired several extra doors.(9 in all 7 front and 2 rear) I believe they should fit '26 through '28 4 dr sedan. They are free but the shipping would kill you.<o:p></o:p> Wayne