jimy

Not found in a car, but when I was 5 years old I found one of those leather key cases that hold a key or two in a junkpile near our house. Embossed with "Gardner Oldsmobile " - a local dealer. Fast forward 45 years and my 35 Dodge (also my first antique auto) was ready for the road. Was looking for an appropriate key chain for it and remembered I still had that one. Put the key in it and enjoyed finally using it. Lost it within a week! grrrrrr Jim

For my second series 35 KCL I modified some new plain baby moons to fit onto the original clips. Let me know if you'd like details. It was a cheap solution and looks much better than nothing. Actually - follow this link... https://forums.aaca.org/topic/284137-artillery-wheel-hubcap/?tab=comments#comment-1533910 Jim

I do not have the build card, but I have added a picture of the engine number to my original post. I ended up registering the truck by engine number. When I got the truck back from restoration both the plates on the firewall were painted over and I couldn't even see that the numbers were there. Several years later I took the plates off and removed the paint with stripper. I was happily shocked that the larger tag looked as well as it did after the paint was removed. So I clear coated it and reinstalled. I may try to update the registration at some point. I believe I would need show it registered/titled by serial number to get the build card. Perhaps if I showed them my engine number and it matched up with the build card for that serial, they would provide the build card. It almost certainly has the original engine - the truck has been in the family since the 40's or earlier (not purchased new). Jim

I have added pictures of the body tag, the truck, and the serial number chart (posted above) which implies to me that a 35 KCL should have a serial starting with 9. Jim

Yes - it is a KCL with 119" wheelbase. And yes, 6 cylinder.

My second series 1935 KCL shows a serial of 8,060,215 on the tag (I've heard it should be on the frame, but haven't seen it there. However if I look at the info posted above, that range should be KC, not KCL. Any thoughts?

Well, I took a bolt out of each hinge and it appeared there was room to slide the hinge back toward the cab a bit. However, as I looked closer it became clear that the hinge was not going to slide. The bottom hinge on both doors appears to be one with the cab. It looks to be filled with body filler at the inner edge of the hinge plate - I would have to guess there is a weld under that. So, for now I think I will live with the door as it is... Jim

Thanks again Surf City. 90% of the rattles and clunks are gone - the truck is a pleasure to drive now! Just a minor window rattle on the big bumps. I ended up using one shim with the new door wedge at the top. Using clay to measure, things appear to just contact at the top and bottom. Any advice on adjusting my drivers side door? No rattles there, but the bottom lip of the door sticks out about 1/4" from the body. Top of door sits in just a tad. Both edges seem pretty square with the cab. If I loosen the hinge bolts at the cab can the door be slid in? (and then adjust the latch at the other side to match. Jim

Thanks! I ordered the part (plus the related shim kit). I'm very excited to (hopefully) eliminate/reduce my clunk. Jim

I'm chasing door a big passenger door rattle in my KC and noticed something I don't understand about the doors. My first picture shows the top of the door. It sure looks like something is supposed to mount there. Perhaps a plate or piece of rubber? The second picture shows the corresponding location on the cab. Basically a fixed wedge. This is the second series 35 cab without suicide doors - 36+ doors may be exactly the same or perhaps had minor changes. My main question is just what is this and is something missing? As far as my rattle, the door that doesn't rattle has perfect paint in this area - no wearing down. With the rattling door almost closed, I can lift the far (door handle) edge of the door up perhaps 1/16" (maybe less) and I believe that is the source of the rattle. I do not have this movement on the quiet door. It seemed like the movement was at the lower hinge so I put a new pin on that hinge with no change. (When my wife is back in town she can move the door while I check the movement out better). I was able to adjust the latch striker plate on the cab IN to more firmly hold the door closed - I will take it out for a spin and see if that helps... I am curious what might be missing from my pictures and if perhaps something is meant to "wedge" the door firmly into position when closed. thanks, Jim

His 59 just before he sold it in 2006 and then moving day from the early 1960's...

Thanks Jim, I think I will just put bumpers on both sides - I am generally avoiding the rain anyways... Jim

My 35 (2nd series with the new 36 cab) KC has no window sweepers. Should it have them? I see them listed for this year truck in catalogs, but the associated clips that appear to go in a round hole do not look correct for my truck. It appears that there are two rubber bumpers (which seem to be available) on the metal trim piece which surrounds the window opening on the inside. On the door itself I see 2 similar long oval holes in the sheet metal. These seem the only candidates for a window sweeper. There is some evidence of a small rubber strip having been glued along the sheet metal at some point in the past. Any chance the window sweeper could just be glued in place? Does any one know what I should have? thanks, Jim

I have an extra steering wheel for a 35 Dodge pickup which looks similar to the one pictured above. Similar condition, so if that one doesn't work out, let me know. (I bought it for the horn parts). For the horn wire, I found an NOS one on ebay that I believe was meant for a power wagon but worked great. This should be the same as what I used: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Military-Dodge-WC-Weapons-Carrier-Horn-Button-Wire-G502-G507-NOS/182373745510?epid=662262709&hash=item2a76528366:g:cacAAOSwEzxYQLSG Below are some pics of the horn assembly I installed on my truck

OK - I got the windows out. I did unscrew the regulators but I'm not 100% sure that was necessary. There is a cutout in the center of the channel glued to the window that I took advantage of for the second window. They also have to be tilted sideways to come out. jpage - I'd like to hear about your service for the batwings. Mine definitely need done. I hope they are fixable - the inner sheet metal (which the fabric/rubber/felt/whatever is glued to is somewhat bent up. We can talk offline (forum message, email, whatever is best) or thru this forum post if you like. Are the batwings supposed to provide friction to help hold the window up (the drivers side slowly lowers during a drive) Jim

Thanks jpage, Once I get things apart I will let you know what I see/have and I'm definitely interested to hear how you can help me get these working correctly. I've attached a picture of one of the lower rollers. The roller is attached to a stud which is "riveted" to the regulator arm. The right half of the roller is free moving with a spring that presses it against the channel (slide rail?). It seems the left side of the roller must be a press/snap fit onto the stud and that is what must be disconnected? I worry about breaking the glass. Any thoughts on safe removal? Pry with something or just use my hand? thanks, Jim

I would like to remove the door windows/regulators from my second series (cab is like a 36) KC truck. There are numerous issues (one side skips gears, the other won't go down all the way, etc, etc) I haven't figured out how to get things apart and am looking for some help. Can the glass come out first? If so, does the metal channel come with it? Can the door latch mechanism stay in place? There is nothing in my service manual about this. Would a parts manual have any pictures that would be helpful? (if I get them out I'm sure I will have followup questions on the repairs) thanks, Jim

It does seem best to keep the spring where it is. If something ever fails in the linkage to the pedal there is probably a better chance of the throttle returning to idle. Jim

Yes, I did see an extra bit of rod with a hole in it where the cross shaft goes over the pedal (engine side of the firewall). I don't see a spot where the other end of the spring might connect. It almost looks like this rod should somehow connect to the starter mechanism to possibly bump the throttle when the starter pedal is pushed. (haven't found a good picture for this area on the web yet) For the moment I flipped the spring around and adjusted the bend on one side. Seems to be working OK for the moment. I do see several pics of old Dodges with a spring in that area and some that don't. One had the spring going thru the eye of the cotter pin which seems sketchy to me. Jim

I will look for that. Do you mean inside the cab or somewhere under the hood?

Where does the throttle return spring go on my 1935 KC second series? I just put it back together after having the manifolds off and I don't like the current setup (never paid much attention to it before). I assume the black plate on the left side of the spring is NOT stock. The right side of the spring goes thru the hole in the rod that I would think should have a cotter pin. Seems like it is waiting for a failure. I haven't had much luck googling for images. I have seen a few pics that had a spring going back to the firewall. Is that correct? Does anyone know what is correct or have a good picture? thanks, Jim

looking for a stock seat for this truck - it is the second series 1935 without suicide doors. I believe a seat from a truck through 1937 should fit.

Thanks for the help. I ordered some new washers and will anneal them before installation. My real auto parts store (NAPA) had a nice tray of assorted copper washers, with nearly every size missing. I ordered online. Jim

After my first longish drive this year I noticed a brake fluid leak at the rear of my 1935 (second series) KC pickup, After cleaning it up and pressing the pedal hard, I pretty much convinced myself the leak was where the brake line connects to the brass fitting at the wheel cylinder. But I am not 100% sure (I should have waited for a helper so I could watch it drip). When I disconnected the line from the fitting I saw several odd things there - first some of the "coating" from the brake line was where the flare met the fitting, and there was also a metallic paste (looked like aluminum from anti-seize) on the threads. Don't know if either had any effect or if the paste was a previous attempt to seal or perhaps came from the brake line fitting as it was tightened? In any case I have a few questions. 1 - The brass fitting has "rings" where the copper washers go. The washers have rings to match. I assume these formed as the bolt was tightened and the copper washers are not reusable? 2 - Perhaps the brass fitting is damaged where the flare from the line meets it? Is this a standard auto parts store item? 3 - The line looks "ok" to me - is there a good way to know for sure or should I just replace? I did initially snug everything up and that did not stop the leak. thanks, Jim

My model # is IGS-4111-1 (Perhaps with a few transposed letter I's and number 1's)