ironmike4134

AZ Car, Salvage title. Great parts. Hit in passenger front end (broken headlight, hood, fender, bumper). Car is still driveable, but has some mechanical issues (freeze plug leak, transmission leak, power steering leak). Seats are cracked, but all work. Windows all work, Opera window is good. Softtop has one team (the usual one). Red Car with Tan interior. My neighbor also has a car for sale (electrical problems from mice). Brand new tires, good original rims. Car was a daily driver until the minor fender bender (insurance would not fix as it was only insured for $5k).

does it have the 5 pin connector (2 on top and 3 on bottom)? if so that is what I need

It is a bad pressure switch. When I jump the connector (pins 3-5) the pump runs. However, when I look for continuity pins 3-5 on the switch, I get nothing. I am assuming that I should have continuity for low pressure and that should kick on the pump... no continuity, bad pressure switch. Now where do I find a pressure switch?

I am now on to the brake pressure switch. If I energize pin 4, the pump runs... however when it is hooked up the pump does not run... when I bled the rear brakes, the pump will switch on/off/on/off but only for a second each way once I start getting fluid out... I would think it would run more constant to build pressure. When just sitting there, the pump wont run when I turn on the car... it will run just while I push the peddle, but only while pushing down and only for a second (it should continue to run until it builds pressure). Anyway to test the pressure switch? Can I test voltage on any pin/combination of pins to see if it will switch?

Anyone know where I can find the orange relay (the middle relay)?

I did both of mine a couple of years ago. I cant remember if I went by the manual (red book) or just figured it out. The trip around the quarter panel (inside) removes pretty easy. You need the top off. I remember I had to go through the speaker grills (behind seats)... they pop off and then unscrew/remove the speaker. This allows you to get your hand in there for removing bolts. I will take a look tonight to see if I am missing anything.

I am really thinking it is electrical. New Accumulator from TC Parts, applied power to the pump and it ran no problem... I applied power to pin #4 (12v) on the pressure switch, and the pump switches on while applying the power. I tested my relays and think one is bad... so replacing that tonight.

I bled the rear brake... the pump goes on. It is intermittent (does not run continuous)... with key on and someone applying pressure on the pedal, should the fluid come out of the rear bleed valve at high pressure or just flow out? I am wondering if the accumulator I bought is bad? cant really tell.

My pump does not come on at all... Have checked all relays and also their connections. I get no lights... I am thinking the pump is shot or the pressure switch is shot. I turned on the key and pulled the plugs... using a volt meter, I checked for power on the 5 prong pressure switch... found power on 2 blades. On the pump I found low voltage .45v on both blades. Any thoughts? Is there any easy way to test either pump or pressure switch e.g. way to bypass wiring and just fire up the pump? the next question... where would I get either of these parts? P.S. I did buy a new accumulator.. the old one was shot (worked for about a week, then intermittent, now nothing... wondering if I had a weak pump for awhile and not nothing?

Almost impossible to find a brake accumulator. are they all the same regardless of year and engine model? Any other alternative parts? There is a thread with AC Delco Part #25528382 as a replacement (but almost impossible to find). Any others?

Any other options for accumulators? I cant find the AC Delco part anywhere. Also tried TC, but since I am in AZ he cant sell to me unless I am a member of TC America (was a member and am trying to get renewed, but taking some time). Hoping to find an accumulator as soon as possible to get my TC back on the road.

NAPA looked it up in their catalog and they only go to 20awg. None of the autoparts stores (I called them all) went over 20awg. I just cut my 22awg wire (the one that is used for the ASD) down and reused the left over portion (looks like it had been done before)... so now my fusible link wire is around 2" long. It blew before because of a short to ground.

I have not been able to find this kind of wire... apparently it is not used much. Where do you guys find it (need 22awg)? Chrysler had 2 packages in the country (in Milwaukee).

Anyone know if there are after market struts I can use for my hood?

Anyone know where I can get a printed circuit board?

I did find one on-line and now the ac works great

did a full series of tests... (great site, followed thesehttp://easyautodiagnostics.com/chrysler_ignition_distributor/dodge_distributor_tests_1.php)... failed on the crank shaft position sensor... already replaced the distributor but guess I got a bad one. Took it back and the car runs great.

V6 91, just replaced the heads... had bent valves and a crack so had co2 in my coolant... thought that would solve my problem... but now the car warms up, hits operating temp, and then after a few minutes shuts off and wont start again until it cools down completely... this car is driving me nuts. Unfortunately just missed the rally here in Phoenix because I cant keep this thing running. I bypassed the ASD relay (just put a jumper between 87 anbd 30, so it is pumping fuel. Pulled off the coil wire and checked for spark... get none... but when it cools I have spark again. Have replaced the coil recently so dont think it is that... also had my computer done so dont think that is the issue either. Thoughts?

Thanks NTX5467... sent the computer off for repairs... the found some capacitors leaking and replaced them.. yes you would need to reflash.. but since I used my exising one I think I get away from that (also gave them mileage and vin values). I did get a new code 11 when I put in the fixed SBEC... points to IGN Reference Signal (Distributor). I did replace this already, but with an autozone one... so maybe it just is not up to par... trying that next, return my new distributor and get another one.

thanks, what is happening is the car warms up and then after about 1-2 miles just shuts off... I did get the SBEC rebuilt, which was a good idea, since they found several capacitors that were leaking and would have ruined the board over time. I put it back in today and had same problem but came up with new code 11 (distributor)... so I am thinking the computer now is recording the code that previously it did not record. I did replace the distributor recently, but hear that the autozone ones are crap, so that may be my problem... again..

I found a company that rebuilds them... ASE... they say they are familiar with them and what goes wrong with them

I have been trying to find the part (thanks Pizzaman for the number)... still no luck. I have ordered from 3 different places now (including autozone) and find out several days to a week later that it is no longer stocked... anyone have any suggestions where to find these...? See some in ebay but for a newyorker 3.8... says it's compatiable but just dont trust it...

Does anyone know the part number or where it is located? When I open it up I just see a bunch of "gel" covering a computer board

Cant find one... any ideas... or can someone rebuild? 1991 V6 P.S. How do you tell if you have a California emissions car??

Thankyou Bob... makes sense as it just needs to hold constant power.