vermontboy
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Posts posted by vermontboy
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It appears a lot of the better cars restored in the 50's and 60's now reside in museums. Restorations today are fairly cost prohibitive for many. I was looking at an old issue of The Arrow (1961 - Series 61 Model 5)) with an article on this meet (4th Annual Meeting) as well as the 1st Western Meet held in Santa Barbara. The back cover has a picture of "Mr. William (Bill) Harrah's 1928 Tourer 7 Pass. Mod. 36". Attendees included Bill Harrah and Phil Hill. Truly the glory days.
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Where is the car located ??
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The few places that exist anymore for oddball parts for antique cars generally do not have an "inventory". My fondest memories of childhood were visits to an "old codgers" large warehouse. Huge piles of generators, starters, carburetors, blocks, and shelves full of 'soft goods". Lighting was a few bard bulbs hanging from the ceiling. He dealt in common parts for "T"s and "A"s, but mostly in the hard to find early brass and large classic car parts. His "go to meeting" old cars were a Model "T" and a Scripps-Booth. He made the 280 mile trek to Hershey every year in his 1917 (I believe) Larrabee truck loaded with parts that were scarce back in the 60's. He sold parts all over the country and dealt by phone and mail. You could send him a parts wanted list and it would join the several dozen already on his workbench. Call with requests and they would get entered into a notebook. When he had time he would get to your request. People were happy to wait.
You will find that much the same procedure is still used at a lot of places where you will eventually have to go to get some of the "non-catalog" parts for your Packard - honest. And those places may also know what will "make do" if that part you need is unobtainable without manufacturing it yourself.
I am not sure how anyone could successfully restore an old car (Fords and some Chevrolets excepted) without the help of a few old timers.
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" It just seems to me that "I can't figure out email" is synonymous with "I can't remember how to be nice"".
Are you saying that it is mainly the people who don't use email to conduct business are the ones that are not nice? There can be many reasons for independent business people to not use email and prefer to conduct business by phone or (gasp) mail. Something about slowing down just a bit and actually writing a letter (in longhand) brings about a certain amount of civility totally destroyed by this computer age. I remember when all parts inquiries had to be by letter, or very expensive long distance phone calls. There are those who don't want to spend their time tied to a computer and would rather conduct business face to face or at least over the phone. And no - they will not agree to using email.... nothing wrong with that in my opinion.
Patience and civility abound in this hobby for those who are patient ... just my opinion. Remember that many of these businesses are not in an expansion mode and are just selling off items to hobbyists in need. I know a couple of "old codgers" who have treasure troves of parts that sell only to those they feel will actually appreciate the parts, not just to anybody who has the money. It pays to cultivate those "old codgers" because they represent what this great hobby once was ....
Sorry - a bit of reminiscing thrown in there for good measure .....
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Location please
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I thought perhaps someone would be interested in seeing some pictures from the 1961 Pierce Arrow Society meet held on the 100th Anniversary of the Mt Washington Toll Road.
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You might want to read this thread, different states have different rules:
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You say "mostly illegible" .. do not destroy that tag ...... if they do not accept the new tag (and I bet they can tell it's new) it is your only piece of evidence and even a partial would be a whole lot better than nothing. Read other threads on this forum, and on other forums, about just how picky some states are getting. I've owned and registered a lot of cars where you couldn't find any similarity between the number on the registration and any number on the car - they never used to check. I think those days are coming to an end.
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If you are going to run a tag sale there will be items left over - lots of items left over .... think worst case (a rainy weekend, or week for that matter). What would you do having put all that time and effort into it if you ended up with over half the items unsold. As MochetVelo stated - in an auction setting it all goes.
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I totally agree with both of the above posts in regards to the fact that my current geographic restrictions greatly reduce the field of available vehicles. Unfortunately the restrictions are currently necessary and I have sent a PM to both of the above respondents explaining the circumstances and thanking them for their responses. If nothing shows up locally in the next several months I may be forced to consider other options, but at present I am more than happy taking my time .... purchases over the last 52 years that I regret all involved a lack of patience. Again, I thank those who have pointed this out, and I do wish current circumstances didn't limit my options - but they do.
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I have, on a daily basis. Thank you - it's one of the more active Model "A" sites on the net.
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Sent you an email through regular channels .....
Henry
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Thank you Dave - yes, I have seen that one. The lack of a tow vehicle or access to dealer or transporter plates adds considerably to the cost of an out of state purchase, and the very real problems associated with the NYS DMV over minor technical issues aren't something I want to get into again. This is a one time purchase and due to health and family issues the purchase has to be as close to hassle free as I can get. I know that limits my choices a great deal but I am more than willing to wait for the right car to come along. It is a nice looking vehicle and if the interior is the only issue it appears to be real bargain. Thank you for pointing it out, I appreciate it.
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Sending PM, thank you for your response ........
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<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--> Looking for a Model "A" Ford for use on tours and for travel. Must be on the road and with proper New York State registration. 1930-31 Fordor or Sport Coupe preferred, will consider others. Nice clean original with rebuilt running gear or good quality restoration on a decent original (no patch panels, deep chassis pitting, etc). Upgrades (touring engine, high speed rear or overdrive, alternator, etc) a plus. Must have mechanical brakes.
Bought my first one in 1961, now retired. Willing to pay a fair price for the car I want and willing to wait for it to come along. Would prefer one located in WNY (Buffalo, Rochester, Syracuse) area.
Henry Brooks
Webster, NY 14580
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<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--> Looking for a Model "A" Ford for use on tours and for travel. Must be on the road and with proper New York State registration. 1930-31 Fordor or Sport Coupe preferred, will consider others. Nice clean original with rebuilt running gear or good quality restoration on a decent original (no patch panels, deep chassis pitting, etc). Upgrades (touring engine, high speed rear or overdrive, alternator, etc) a plus. Must have mechanical brakes.
Bought my first one in 1961, now retired. Willing to pay a fair price for the car I want and willing to wait for it to come along. Would prefer one located in WNY (Buffalo, Rochester, Syracuse) area.
Henry Brooks
Webster, NY 14580
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It's a long shot but back in the 60's I had a similar no start and the spring loaded end of the ignition switch wire into the base of the distributor had broken loose. I was in college at the time and walked the cable down the road to a local mechanic who charged me 25 cents to solder it. Those were the days....
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btt
Asking price reduced to $5950 to avoid storage over the winter. Ad will be pulled around mid-November and I will market at local shows in the spring.
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Glad to know there are still large parts caches around. Makes me want to find and perhaps buy my father's old Pierce back - beautiful car. We picked it up in Boston in 1960 and drove it back to Rochester, NY. The next year we drove it to Mount Washington for the Eastern Pierce Arrow Society meeting. We blew a head gasket on the way back (perhaps something to do with cruising at 70 mph oe thereabouts). My dad had picked up a spare earlier and had it stored under the back seat - four hours later we were on our way home again. After we got home we had the head milled which cured the problem (prior owner apparently hadn't used a torque wrench).
And yes, if I do buy it back (or buy another one) I will drive it - old cars were made to be driven. I used a Model "A" Ford as a daily driver in the late 60's. I remember a local parts dealer (Elmer Bassage) made the trip from Rochester to Hershey every year in his 1918 Larrabee truck well into the 70's if memory serves.
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I can understand that if the engine can't be saved it probably seems like a daunting task to find another Pierce-Arrow replacement engine. Perhaps another possibility would be what they did in the 40's and 50's and adapt another more readily available Straight 8 to fit. Thinking along the lines of a Studebaker or other large engine.
My dad had a 1933 Model 836 and if I recall correctly (this being 50 odd years ago) there were some things like free-wheeling, a rather odd and touchy brake system, etc. that may require a bit of thought to incorporate or delete depending on the engine chosen. If you can find an old fire engine graveyard the Seagraves trucks used a similar engine (think we bought a timing chain from Seagraves for the 1933).
It would not be a purist restoration but it would be a more or less period correct repair and would maintain the original character and feel of the car.
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Due to health reasons I find I can no longer perform basic maintenance or minor repairs. It needs a new home. The power steering leak worsened over the winter - fine for a short drive but would not make a long trip. Asking price reduced to $5000 or first reasonable offer. It needs a new home and my wife says we need our garage back.
This is a nice original survivor with the odometer showing 58K miles, which appears correct. I have a link below to Photobucket with 32 detailed pictures of the car.
New / recent items include rear springs, radiator, professionally rebuilt carburetor, exhaust system, emergency brake cable, front seat belts, as well as various belts and hoses. Tires have a lot of tread left. Vehicle is on the road, inspected and licensed. I pulled the carpets to check the floor pans and rockers. The pictures speak for themselves. There is one approx 6X9 inch old patch on the passenger side pan (shown in pictures). The rest was solid with some surface rust which I painted with Rustoleum. The trunk was detailed by the prior owner and appears to be holding up well. Under dash area is clean (see pictures)….. Paint appears mostly original - no traces of bondo or welds. One corner of each door is starting to bubble and will need attention in the next year or two. Should require minimal effort or expense (the color is somewhat forgiving). I do have the original "Chevrolet" valve covers.
Usual minor leaks at Powerglide and power steering. The original undercoating is scaly (from storage) and could be freshened by scraping, rustoleum or POR-15, and applying paint or undercoat. The interior looks nice and is serviceable, although some portions of the cloth inserts are becoming a bit threadbare.
I have around $8000 invested and I am asking $6750 or reasonable offer. I really would like to get it out of the garage before winter. Good opportunity to own a nice original low mileage daily driver.
Link or cut/paste to view photo album.
photobucket.com/WebsterChevrolet
Car is located in Webster, NY (Rochester).
Henry Brooks
585/ 265-4968
Metal Rescue to the rescue????????
in General Discussion
Posted
Looks pretty expensive for larger parts - google "e tank rust removal" for an alternate method that might work out for you.