vermontboy
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Posts posted by vermontboy
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There was a thread on Fordbarn a couple of months ago - at that time there appeared to be a bit of a problem in locating the actual company itself if I recall correctly.
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We had a 1964 Chrysler Newport with a 361 ci - 2 bbl carb with a 3 on the floor - non-synchro low gear. Motor Trend tested one similarly equipped. Manuel steering and brakes as well - drove like a pickup truck.....
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Sounds like you could do a roadside fix but the first thing I would check would be for a loose fan belt.
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Where is the car located ??
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The dealer is indeed going to make money if they purchase your car. But the dealer may offer you more than you can get trying to sell it yourself if he has a customer looking for that particular car. Many buyers will pay a premium to buy from a dealer, especially one they have bought from before. And there are buyers who will NOT buy from a private party due to all the recent registration and title problems cropping up.
Many buyers will not pursue cars advertised without at least a brief description and pictures - I am one of them. No matter how much I wanted a 1929 Chevrolet Sport Coupe I would not respond to an ad without at least a picture and description. I bought my first antique car in 1961 and have learned over the years that it isn't worth the time and frustration.
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Seems like either a manifold leak or a small oil leak at one of the valve covers onto the manifold. Is the heat riser intact and functional ??
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Totally agree - he will be ticketed at some point.
The only speeding ticket I ever got was one morning when I wasn't even speeding. But the previous two mornings I had rolled past the police chief's house, located just on the other side of an "End 35" sign, doing about 70 just as he was getting his paper from the front porch. I paid the fine.
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Using (2) 6 volt batteries at 12 volts for starting and 6 volts for everything else has been done for a long time - I recall seeing a few such set-ups on early Ford flatheads with high compression heads.
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Based on the amount of response to my "Wanted: Model "A" daily driver" ad in the local Craigslist no one ever contacts them.
That said - I always look at those ads as either someone trying to buy something valuable for nothing or just interested in seeing what else I might have so I never call them.
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I always looked on restoring and driving antique cars as a hobby. A hobby is supposed to be something enjoyable. If you aren't enjoying a hobby find something else to do.
I don't mind people who are obsessed with winning awards - if that's part of the enjoyment more power to them. What I have a problem with is that apparently the younger generation (sorry) has been brought up in a world where everything is perfect. My generation was brought up to learn that life was not always perfect, not always fair, and you adapted to your current situation or moved on - you didn't try to change the unchangeable just because it doesn't make sense to you.
If someone objects to the AACA judging standards there are a lot of other clubs out there to join. Keep in mind that they all have their own rules that you may or may not like. You either play by the rules or set about in a constructive manner to change them. Before you do anything you need to find out WHY the rules are written the way they are. 9 times out of 10 you will find that there is a good solid reason the rules are written and enforced the way they are. Do not be too quick to judge things you don't understand.
Just two cents from an old timer who learned the art of listening and questioning at an early age.
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Location please - pictures of motor and undercarriage would help ....
thanks
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Have you googled - "1960 DeSoto fuel pump" - everyone seems to have it - NAPA, Rock Auto, etc. It's showing up as an AFP267 which was used on a lot of Mopar V-8 engines of various displacement for a number of years.
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The engine pictured in the car is obviously not a V-8.
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I think that the '26 Pierce-Arrow had the worm drive rear end. They have a characteristic sound on different pavements and is possibly what you heard.
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Well I'm not interested but it might be fun to put it on ebay and see what it would bring !!! Stranger things have happened on that marketplace.
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The older flathead Ford V8 engines are also susceptible to cracking. I remember Rod & Custom doing a rebuild article and I believe that over 50 percent of the blocks they looked at had minor cracks in the valve area.
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Every state is different, at this time many states never physically check the VIN, some states only physically check the VIN on cars purchased in other states, some states are starting to go back and check them at renewal. You can search this forum, fordbarn, chevytalk, and numerous other forums for examples, there are many. One that comes to mind is : http://forums.aaca.org/f169/1931-model-370847.html - there is an excellent and lengthy commentary by Matt Harwood on how title problems affect his business.
My intent was to advise the OP that it would be better to address this issue up front than after the fact.
My warning on obtaining newly manufactured VIN plates or any of the other formerly quasi legal ways around title issues that involve alterations is because in many states it is now a crime. New York can confiscate your car and sell it (after legal proceedings, of course). Try selling a high dollar early Corvette without the rosette rivets and see what happens.
Below is the Michigan law regarding id tags, rosette rivets,etc. If you don't believe that they are at least occasionally enforced read a few other forums.
"750.415
(5) A person shall not knowingly possess, buy, deliver, or offer to buy, sell, exchange, or give away any manufacturer's vehicle identification number plate, federal safety certification label, antitheft label, posident die stamps, secretary of state vehicle identification label, rosette rivet, or any facsimile thereof. This subsection does not apply to a motor vehicle manufacturer, a motor vehicle parts supplier under contract with a motor vehicle manufacturer, or a law enforcement officer in the official performance of his or her duties or to a motor vehicle in which a manufacturer's vehicle identification plate and each of the applicable labels listed in this subsection have been installed as prescribed by law. A person who violates this subsection is guilty of a felony, punishable by imprisonment for not more than 4 years, a fine of not more than $10,000.00, or both. If the person who violates this subsection is a licensed dealer or repair facility, its license shall be revoked."
This is going to become more and more of an issue in the future ... it is far easier for the current owner to take care of these issues than the future purchaser.
Just my opinion ....
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If I were to do this the first thing I would do is check with my DMV to find out how easy it is to change to the title to the new motor number, if the motor number were used as the VIN. There are a lot of horror stories about cars being sold and the problems that arise when the VIN on the title (or registration) cannot be found on the car. I know a lot of you say just have a tag made, etc but after reading the latest version of the New York State rules and regs it is not a viable option - the penalties are too great. And New York has historically been one of the easiest states to modify registrations in .. it appears that it's a whole new ballgame out there.
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I think most everyone uses what they are most comfortable with based on what they have read and been told. Most modern oils are known quantities in regards to additives - read up on it and decide what makes the most sense.
And remember that many of us back in the 60's were using one of the generic brands of "Pennsylvania" oil you could buy in 5 gallon pour spout cans at Western Auto or National Auto - when you were getting 100 miles to the quart you wanted cheap. They even sold "re-refined" oil back then - think about that for a minute.....
Detergent vs non-detergent, multi-grade vs single grade, and etc. They all have people that swear using anything else would cause their engines to blow up or wear out. It's more important to remember to change it often because it becomes contaminated much more quickly in old engines than in new ones - so change it every 1000 miles or so.
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I took these pictures at Hershey in the early 70's. I think the car used nitrogen in it's tires and had several other unusual features but the name and origin of the car escape me.
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Have you tried Chevytalk.org ??? I had a '62 Bel Air and was left just about speechless by the depth of knowledge some of these people had. I think a request over there (you have to join - it's free) would work well.
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Here's a similar concept on a Model "A" - the other end goes into the oil filler tube
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You might want to try again - I've been on a couple of times in the last 30 minutes and looking at the posting times in the Forum I don't see any gaps
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I think Rusty_Otoole had the right idea - a 1960's 6 cylinder Mopar, or even Ford or Chevrolet. Valiant, Dart, Falcon, Fairlane, Nova (pricy around here), Chevelle, or even 6 cylinder large cars (Impala, Galaxy, etc). There are lots of them around - they are very easy to work on - you can even find speed parts and stuff for them everywhere.
You could do up an early 60's Mopar Dodge or Plymouth and set it up to look like a hemi while retaining the 6. And in a Dart or Valiant you can really make a Slant Six fully the equal of a stock 273, and faster than the emasculated 318's of the mid 70's.
Car won't idle...
in General Discussion
Posted
Just a second mention for Fordbarn here - there is an absolute wealth of information in it's searchable forum and I don't think that I have ever seen a question unanswered. Many times a plea for help results in a visit from one of the regulars to help as long as you have shown effort to repair on your part. PEnnsylvania is the heart of Model "A" country on the East Coast.