vermontboy
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Posts posted by vermontboy
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I posted pictures taken c.1949 at the Larz Anderson museum a few months ago - b&w pictures of several of the cars and a member ID'd most of them by name of owner. You may have to cut and paste - I can't find the link button.
http://forums.aaca.org/f169/1948-car-show-pictures-379797.html
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Ditto on the ServiceMaster and please read up on hantavirus. I had a co-worker die from cleaning out an old barn. .... Scarce in Canada but still as deadly.
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There is not much private anymore - you can guard your social security all you want but it is used as your Medicare number when you turn 65. It wasn't that long ago when people put there social security numbers on their checks and the police were advising people to engrave their social security number into valuable objects so they could be tracked in case of theft.
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I would say that is correct. Interstate Tire in West Lebanon, NH advertises:
"Interstate Tire since 1942 has been a Locally Owned and Operated Tire Dealer in West Lebanon NH. We offer tires, wheels, tubes and retreads for Cars, Trucks, Farm Equipt, Motorcycles and Industrial equipt. Our Services include Tire Mounting, Dynamic Balancing, Tire Repairs, Truck Retreading and Computerized Alignment. We carry Bridgestone, Firestone, Dayton, Nokian and Hercules."
Best bet in a lot of cases when on the road is to try and find a small independent shop that has actual general purpose mechanics around. Yes, they are getting harder to find but at least at present there are a lot around if you ask.
Another good option is heavy truck repair centers.
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Hi,
Not sure you ever got an answer to your condenser question yet but between that one and this one I think it would probably be best to contact someone in one of the local car clubs to come over and give you some hands on help. I would think that if you contact your local AACA chapter or one of the other clubs and explain your situation that someone could find an evening or a weekend afternoon to come over and help you get it started.
It's difficult to try to give advice without actually seeing what is happening. BTW - did you drop the oil pan and clean out the sludge yet - very important to do so before starting the engine, particularly as it is now full of gas.
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Yes maybe i am being optimistic. I would love to be able to stick the nail head in it and run everything else Studebaker. Hell would love to build the st8 6 engine that came in the car but I would like more than 30HP. the 9inch is what i was thinking about. And good thoughts about adapting the later Studebaker brakes to this axle.
If you're still hanging around keep in mind the later Studebaker flathead 6 was 112 hp stock and it was pretty easy to get it up to 150hp give or take a little. Torque was impressive.
For what it's worth you would be time and money ahead to have a new frame fabricated (or fabricate one yourself) and sell the old frame and running gear to someone else. There isn't much of anything you can reuse on that old frame that will withstand the torque or top speed of the nailhead - I saw far too many high hp - old frame combinations disintegrate back in the sixties - sometimes with disastrous results. Do yourself, your loved ones and others on the roadway a favor and make certain that what you build is safe at the speed at which you are going to drive it.
Just my two cents
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Horse and buggy drivers were seated to the right and held the reigns in their left hand... sitting on the right in an early automobile allowed the driver to disembark on the curb side and not knee deep in mud and stuff. Nothing to do with which side of the road you drove on, which was always the right in the US.
Interestingly enough in the US Virgin Islands the cars are left hand drive like in the US but you drive on the left like in England. It is very easy to get used to. The locals claim it is to allow for drivers to stop and talk to those on the sidewalk, a rather common occurrence down there.
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Thank you all so much .... I'm glad that I put them on and that there is so much information available on a car meet that happened 65 years ago (I was born in 1949 so I didn't have to do the math). Sad that so many cars like this were lost to the World War II scrap drives but I understand the need for both the material and the patriotism.
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I found the following pictures in an "odd lot" box I purchased a few years ago. The license plates appear to be from NY and Massachusetts - one of the NY plates is dated 1948 and background vehicles seem to match... an odd ball assortment of cars seldom seen at today's shows.
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Also would do a reality check on how much you want to end up spending .... a full restoration of a 1950 Buick convertible is going to be very expensive - key word is very. Why not make a list of the things you would want to do and toss it out for some wild guesses from the people here. The figure of 10-15K for chrome and stainless straightening is the tip of the iceberg. Honest. Just make a quick list and post it.
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"Swap over" is an interesting term. Attaching all Ford parts to the Studebaker frame along with the associated peripherals is major surgery. Have you considered just remounting the body on a later frame ? Fabricating a few body mounts is vastly simpler and easier than "swapping over" mechanicals into an old frame. That is assuming you are building a hot rod.
If you are leaving the rest of the car original the comments above on why NOT to switch to hydraulic brakes would apply to your Studebaker as well . I believe (from memory) that it had a cable operated brake system (some models had a vacuum assist I believe). Those cable operated brakes were used on the Studebaker race car that garnered a third place finish at Indy in 1932.
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Pull a plug leaving the wire attached and ground it to the block - you should see a spark. If you don't you then have to check the coil wire that goes into the top of the distributor in the same fashion - if there is spark there move on to taking the distributor cap off and seeing if there is spark at the points. Mind you, it's been many years (maybe decades) since the last time I performed this little drill so hopefully someone else with a more current experience and maybe a better memory will be along.
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There is a problem with your link
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Model "A" Fords with the old button snow tires on '48 rims (with spacer) do well in deep snow - drove through many a blizzard back in the 60's. Not so good in slush on busy roads because the windshield would become opaque from road spray regularly.
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Unfortunately shows have changed. Back in the simple 60's we had cranking contests, stopping the right front tire on a small spot contests, passenger holding an egg in a spoon contest while driving around an obstacle course, driving through the obstacle course backwards, and a couple of others. We also had a blindfold driving contest around the obstacle course until one year ........ well, let's just say my dad put me on the running board of his 33 Pierce Arrow (I was 12) and told me he was going to put it in low gear and floor it. My job was to keep a constant chatter of left, left, left, right right and etc. All went well until I started to say uh, uh, uh ..... people scattered - my dad said "Speak to me", foot still firmly planted on throttle, my mother screamed. I finally shouted "Right, right, right" just in time... we won the contest by a large margin. It was never held again ...... (True story).
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Like many states NY uses a transferable registration in lieu of a title on older cars. You need BOTH a bill of sale AND the signed transferable registration in order to register the vehicle. To register the car in NY you will also need the seller to fill out and sign a special sales tax form certifying the sale price. At one point in time this had to be signed and notarized by all those in the chain of ownership back to the last registered owner ....
Every state is different.
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" If the car is registered in Alabama and is being sold by the original registered owner, a handwritten bill of sale is all that is legally required to register the vehicle in any state."
In most states you will also require a copy of the last state registration card issued for the same reason you state in your argument in "second hand bill of sale". There has to be a state issued document for the car. And yes, most states have some work around but not like they used to. Most now require a lawyer, a knowledgeable judge (not your buddy JP down the road) and a few dollars (a friend spent the better part of a year and $5,000 obtaining a title to a long abandoned vehicle).
As Bob Dylan said "The Times, They Are A'Changin'"
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Are you referring to the "Salamanca Slammer" - pitcher, pinch-hitter, hit by a lightning bolt but still finished the game old time ball player with a penchant for getting himself in trouble ? It's an interesting story either way
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RUN, do not walk, RUN. You owe the seller nothing - he lied. He does not have title to the car. If you were to try and get it registered it may very well turn up stolen in the new national database - then you lose the car - period.
If you paid him a deposit through Paypal you can get your money back - he cannot provide proof of a clear title. If not I wish you the best of luck. Do not feel bad but ALWAYS ask two things 1) request a copy of the ownership document and 2) request confirmation that the VIN number on the vehicle matches the ownership document.
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After buying about 9 or 10 cars in the last 7 years, I have a cardinal rule to never buy a car that unless it is currently titled in the seller's name. The reason I have this rule is because of a car with an AL registration (2006), and titling issues that are still not resolved. It was an AL registration that involved one of the "title" companies. I don't know when AL began issuing titles (they did not in 2006), but I bet the Charger is changing hands on an AL registration from around 2005-6.
So, in your case, the first guy buys the Charger, then sells it after years of storage to your seller. He wants you to buy it with the AL registration. My DMV in SC would want a bill of sale from the out of state seller to the first MN owner (who put it in storage), then a bill of sale from him to your seller, then a bill of sale from your seller to you. Even then it would raise red flags with the SCDMV.
Every state has different regulations, so my first call would be to (your) DMV to see what kind of paperwork they need to title/ register the car to you.
If the seller can't or won't get a good title, and show or fax me a copy of that title in his name, I don't buy the car, period!
TG
Absolutely positively 100 per cent correct. And you can add to that making certain that the title or current registration (for non title states) has numbers that match the vehicle and that the original VIN or other tags are in place and properly affixed. Our local Craigslist is full of 50's and 60's cars with out of state titles brought in from Southern and Western states. When you ask a seller if the title is in his name and he says "no", and you then tell him you need a NY registration in his name to be able to buy the car he always says "It's no problem - I've sold lots of cars this way - you just take the title down to the DMV.". Ya, right.
Older cars are always problematic because of engine swaps where the registration was never changed (or title in title states). It's not a big deal in NY (yet) for the current owner to get the number changed - but so far they have all said "There's no VIN check in NY so I never bothered - it's not a problem". OK- it't not a problem if I sell it NY (as of today). That may change down the road. If I get a buyer in PA they now have a VIN check and it is a problem.
Not worth the grief and aggravation.
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I always use a putty knife (plastic if you prefer) and kerosene.
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Sorry, my fault for not including the pages above the certification which are part of the entire form that is to be submitted along with no less than 8 different items as attachments. The DMV puts these online in password protected PDF format so my workaround is not properly formatted but all the words are there. While NYS DMV is much better than it used to be, they do not have much of a sense of humor and if provoked can make it exceedingly difficult to register a vehicle.
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--> Vintage plates are the actual plates issued to the vehicle owner, or other original plates (not reproductions) issued by New York State (NYS), in the year the vehicle was manufactured.
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Any motor vehicle manufactured more than 25years before the current calendar year that is used only as a collector's item or exhibition piece, and not for daily transportation, may be registered with vintage plates from the model year of the vehicle.
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Vintage registrations are valid for one year
. To register your vehicle with vintage plates, you must have actual plates that were valid in NYS in the year the vehicle was manufactured. If it was a metal tab year, you must have the metal tab.
o The plates must be original; not reproductions and not painted.
o If NYS issued only one plate in the year of manufacture, that plate must be mounted on the rear of the vehicle.
If NYS originally issued two plates in that year, you must use both matching plates.
HOW DO I REGISTER MY ELIGGIBLE VEHICLE WITH VINTAGE PLATES?
Mail items 1-8 to:
NYS Department of Motor Vehicles, Custom Plates Unit, P.O. Box 2775, Albany NY, 12220.
1. MV-82 (Vehicle Registration/Title Application)
*. Complete and sign form MV-82. Please be sure to fill in your name,
address, daytime phone number, and client ID number (from your driver license). If you have questions about the requirements,please see form MV-82.1 (Registering/Titling a Vehicle in New York State)*.
2. A photocopy of your driver license
. This serves as proof of identity. (See form ID-82* for a list of other acceptable proofs.)
3. Proof of ownership
. If the vehicle is currently registered to you, provide a photocopy of the current registration. If the vehicle is not currently registered in your name, send the original transferable registration or title, signed over to you. If that is not possible, send form MV-51B (Statement of Ownership)* with a Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) tracing or VIN verification signed by a police department.
4. Proof of insurance
. Send a valid Insurance ID Card (FS-20, FS-21) issued and dated within 45 days of the date you register the vehicle. The ID card must include a scannable barcode and the computer-printed word "HISTORICAL". Cards without the word "HISTORICAL" will not be accepted. Contact your insurance company to get information about insurance for an historical vehicle.
5. Sales Tax Receipt
(ONLY needed if the vehicle has never been registered in your name in New York State.) To get a Sales Tax Receipt, you must bring your bill of sale and proof of ownership documents (title or transferable registration) to any Motor
Vehicles office, where you will complete a sales tax clearance form (DTF-802*, 803* or 804*) and receive a Sales Tax Receipt (FS-6T). (If your vehicle is currently registered in your name, or if it was registered to you previously, proof of sales tax payment is not required.)
6. Payment of fees
. You may pay by check, money order or credit card. Make a check or money order payable to the "Commissioner of Motor Vehicles". If paying by credit card, please fill in the appropriate information on Page 2 of this form.
Passenger Vehicles:
o If you already have a valid NYS registration for the vehicle in your name, the fee is $3.75 for the new document.
o If the vehicle is not currently registered in your name, the fee is
$28.75
. NOTE
: If you live in New York, Bronx, Kings, Queens, Richmond, Rockland, Nassau, Suffolk, Orange, Putnam, Dutchess, or Westchester county, the fee is $53.75 due to the addition of an annual $25 Metropolitan CommuterTransportation District supplemental registration fee.
o If the vehicle is a 1973 or newer model year and does not already have a NYS title issued in your name, there is an additional fee of $50 for the title.
7. Color photograph of the vintage plate(s)
. Submit a clear, color photograph of the plate(s). If the vehicle year required two plates, both plates must appear in the same photo.
8. This form (MV-440V) with your original signature on Page 2
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Google "Nash 600" - there are a few, mostly the Super 600 (6 cylinder) but a handful of the older ones. There was one at a dealer somewhere a couple of years ago that was fully restored (nice job). I believe it was in the $12.5K range. I think most would sell between 8 and 10 thousand but hopefully someone more knowledgeable than I will be around.
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If you don't get an answer here try the Ford Barn. A quick search of the forums should get you the answer.
1936 Dodge starting or firing problem
in General Discussion
Posted
I had a '36 D2 back in the 70's but can't remember what kind of choke it had. Is your choke manual, automatic or electric?