bepnewt

Odd that you should bring this up, and with the specifics you mentioned. I've recently been wondering what the carpet and kickpanels on my '64 should look like, but since I know it's not something I will get to any time soon, I just wonder and don't take it further. Onto the the real subject... This is a good idea, for sure. The hard part is implementing it in a forum environment. The best way I can think of for a forum is to have a 2 Stickies maintained by a couple people. The sticky would have some easy to follow procedures, like this: 1) Sticky #1 is for requests. A request post should give precise information on what you are looking for with a minimum of Year and a description of what you need. If you are looking for something more specific, such as the the door panels for a '65 that doesn't have the deluxe interior package and whose interior color is blue, then list those details. The requester really needs to put as much information on what they want in their post so it doesn't start a multi-post conversation just to determine what they really want. The goal is to have a clean thread with 1 post requests. 2) Sticky #2 is for responses. If you have a picture of what the person is looking for, post it with the details of what the picture represents. Whomever can mod the 2 stickies would clean up the text, etc. and then delete the request from the request thread. That way, anything that is in the request thread are items that haven't had a picture posted. That's the best I can think of for this forum. It may sound like a lot of extra work, but it's not. The only difference is instead of starting a new thread when you want to see what something should look like, you post your request in the Sticky thread and the person who has the pic you need responds in the other Sticky thread. If they forget to respond there, the mod can copy and paste the response in the correct thread and delete it on the other. No harm, no foul. There are other options, such as a photo gallery, but I think 2 threads are a better choice because of the versatility it gives for keeping information with the picture. The downside of stickies is they take up room on your screen. Two more stickies means the non-stickies get moved down 2 more spots. A nice work-around is to have subforums. A subforum just for "How it should be" would work. Along with a subforum for "Members' Rides" and other good sub-subjects. Other ways to do it: - Host the pics on the Rivowners site somehow - Some 3rd party like myself that can set up another site just for this ( not recommended ) - Keep it the way it is where people ask for pics now and then and they get answered If something does come of this where special threads are used to store the pics, I'll offer my services to "mod" them and clean up the text, keep a consistent formatting to the posts, etc. I'm more than slightly OCD in this respect so it comes naturally to me. That's my 2 rusted fender bolts worth of ideas... -BEPNewt

I don't know, guys. It says right in the eBay ad that they "look bad ass". eBay descriptions never lie, right? -BEPNewt

I would think the replies in this thread would be able to be put together into a nice write-up for the ROA boards Technical Tips or even made into an article for the Riview. That's easy for me to say since I would be an innocent bystander to it all... -BEPNewt

Appreciate the input, John. I imagine I will end with a push pump. After I do the different tests people suggest and collect data, that will probably be the solution. At that time, I'll collect as much info on the pumps as possible and buy one that makes sense. I just hope they are easy to install. I wasn't raised working on cars, so anything I can do myself is fun for me because I learn something in the process. I got my driver door slightly adjusted today and it helped. The door skin is a little loose and needs some adjusting and that will help even more. Even the little things like that get me smiling when I do something myself that improves the car in some way! -BEPNewt

From what I've read, both the '64 and the '67 can have either a Delco/Morraine or Bendix master cylinder and they only work with the matching booster. Unfortunately, I don't know what one I have on my '64, yet, and we don't know which is on that '67. I won't be able to find out what I have until next Spring. My brakes are working now, so I'm not going to disassemble it until it's time to actually do the work. If no one on here chimes in needing parts from a '67, you should post over on the V8Buick.com site that you have access to one. Take some good pics of the exterior, interior, engine compartment, trunk ( if possible ), all the fenders, etc. You'll probably get people asking you about specific parts so getting as many pics as possible will help out. I wish there were some good yards in my area. There was a real nice one where I went to high school and I sure enjoyed prowling around there all those years ago. -BEPNewt

It looks like the '67 would have to be drum front and back, which you could easily check so that's not a big issue. But, I would need to know if mine is the Delco/Morraine or Bendix and the same with the donor. I'm not ready to pull mine apart to find out so don't worry about checking that for me. I'll just add that to my list of stuff to do! Thanks anyway. -BEPNewt

That's my wife's #2 gripe about mine. #1 is the A/C not working. -BEPNewt

I'm at work and don't have my latest Riview handy to log into the Rivowners.org site and check the article on the single -> dual master cylinder swap. Nevermind, based on this article, it looks like a '67 will work for me: http://forums.aaca.org/f177/67-master-cylinder-lines-273323.html If the Master Cylinder looks decent, I could use it. Send me a price, if so, please. I hadn't planned on worrying about this until next Spring, but if the opportunity is here now, I may as well jump on it if it makes sense. I'll check some sites tonight to see what buying one from someone will cost ( already pulled, etc. ). If it's rather cheap, then I won't ask you to pull the one off of the car in the yard. If anyone happens to have one lying around that will work for my single -> dual swap, yell out, please! -BEPNewt

I was hitting CL recently for R-12 sales. What I found is people typically selling the small cans ( 8 / 10 / 12 / 14oz ) for about $2.00 / oz. I was able to find a few cheaper than that and many that were more expensive than that - up to $3.50 / oz or more. But, you can also find people selling the big canisters of 30lb+ of R-12 and the price there varied from $1.50 / lb to $10.00 / lb. And the people selling the large ones sometimes mentioned that you needed to show an EPA Certification before they would sell it to you. I emailed a guy selling some rather cheap and he never replied. -BEPNewt

Diaphragm ordered for my STV. Odd how something as small as ordering a part can make you feel good. The reason I asked the question one post above is I'm not sure if taking the STV off "opens the system" or something and will let moisture or contaminants in, etc. I'll check the PDF manuals I have to see what they say, but I trust the wisdom and experience of you guys for the tidbits I won't find in a manual. -BEPNewt

When I remove my old STV is off, do I need to do anything more than cover up the hole it leaves to keep crap out while I recondition it? -BEPNewt

I've let it sit longer now twice, about 5 days each time, and it didn't work. Next will be doing the test Tom suggested where I shut the car off after it's warm and watch the fuel coming in when the pedal is jammed to the floor. -BEPNewt

As do I. I just can't help it. -BEPNewt

I found out where the Law stands on using the old plates in Oklahoma. 1) The plate must be an official Oklahoma issued plate 2) The plate must "clear" 3) It CAN be repainted, but the colors must match 4) The plate must be at least 21 years old ( I guess so it can legally drink gas or something ) 5) Must keep your normal license plate in the car The form for applying to use one of these plates is Oklahoma Form 750-B -BEPNewt

First, the level-set. I'm new to this, also. I've only been on the forums for about 9 months but have loved the 'Riv for many years. From what I've seen over the last 9 months, a really nice '65 GS that is restored well will sell between $30k and $45k in this economy if you wait for the right buyer. Probably more if you get really crazy with all the right fasteners - nuts, bolts, everything. A "decent" restore can sell for $22k to $28k but won't stand up to a 400pt inspection. You'll see some crazy-ass auctions on TV where they "go" for $70k - $90k or so, but that's seems unrealistic for a "normal" person selling one. If you are in this for a profitable restoration, you may be able to make a little bit if you do most of the work yourself and you're starting with something solid. I can't imagine restoring one and selling it, though. The cars are just too beautiful. -BEPNewt

Dang it, I forgot about the County thing. Thanks for the reminder. -BEPNewt

And this is one of the things I like about this forum - great people with different opinions and ideas and 2 cents and everyone is good with it. One of the Cali plates I have is in pretty good shape but the other is not so good. I don't have any use for the Cali plates so I kind of have a "plan" for them. If I can do the restore on the OK plate myself and do a pretty decent job, that's really just a practice run for the Cali plates. I definitely won't mess up the Cali plates if I don't feel I have the ability to make them look good. The patina'd classic look is much better than a bad restoration in my book. Cool side note - the lady at the DMV near my work is probably in her mid-60s and rather knowledgeable. She's also well-known by the patrons. It's rare that I go in there for something and someone doesn't walk in and call her by name in greeting. When I registered the 'Riv, she came out to check that the VIN matched the Title and when she saw my car she immediately smiled and said "This was the first body style of these, wasn't it? I really loved these when they came out." -BEPNewt

This is exactly how they were done - with rollers. And it's near impossible to duplicate the look of the roller w/o using one. The next best thing I would think would be to use a sponge if you can't make a working roller. I would love to see the results of a professional restoration up close. This matched set of Cali plates I have are a good example of the roller method. You can see how the paint on the raised parts is thinner on the flat spots and a little thicker on the edges of the raised parts. My father worked for the NJ Dept. of Corrections for most of my life and was really good friends with the guy who oversaw the whole plate making system. He had his buddy repop a replacement plate for his Goldwing to replace the one he had been running on his bikes for a couple decades. The colors had changed, but they still had some of the old paint lying around. Dad liked to say he had the "Newest Oldest motorcycle plate in New Jersey." Bill mentioned the process where you spray the colors for the raised areas first, then spray over that with the background color and remove the background paint from the raised areas. There are several approaches to the removal but from what I read yesterday on different forums, this is a really good way to go about it. BTW Bill, your car is still one of my top 3 Rivs. I just freakin' love that color. -BEPNewt

That's pretty cool, Ed. The problem is going to be getting a definitive answer on whether or not they are legal to use here. I KNOW I found a link less than 4 months ago about using old plates in Oklahoma and I'm sure it was OK ( nyuk nyuk ). I can't find a link now. I blame the exhaust from the 'Riv in my garage... BP-1964 is probably the best idea for a tag for me. Too bad I wouldn't be able to fit "Riv" on there somehow. Personalized tags didn't start in Oklahoma until 1967 so I'd be stuck with the AA-NNNN format. Thanks for the link. There's a woman working at the tag agency near my work that will probably be helpful to me. I think she's worked there for ages. -BEPNewt

I have a couple 1964 Oklahoma License plates. I can't find the link now, but I'm pretty sure the OK DMV allows older plates to be put back in circulation if they are clear, etc, blah blah. I read some articles on how to restore these old plates. The ones I have aren't too bad, but they would look better if they were refreshed, so to speak. The cheapest service I've seen that restores plates charges $80 per plate. I guess that's not too bad for an Oklahoma tag since Oklahoma doesn't use front tags, but it's still a little steep for me. That $80 would be better spent on AC parts! I also have a set of 1963 California tags that I pulled off my car when I tagged it. If I am able to make on of the OK tags look good, I'll do the same to the Cali tags. On to the question... Have any of you guys restored a tag or tags? I'd like to hear how it went if you have. -BEPNewt

There should be a wrap-around tag on the distributor with number 1111058 on it. http://forums.aaca.org/f177/where-numbers-distributor-300568.html Based on that thread, there's a good chance it doesn't exist anymore. -BEPNewt

Just to be sure, is this where you're looking for the stamped numbers? That's where they are on my '64, I assume it's the same place on the '65. Someone will correct if not. -BEPNewt

Very nice, for sure. Are you going to stick with stock or go a little crazy with this nice machine? -BEPNewt

Larry may have a partial trunk but definitely doesn't have a full one. I talked to him about mine in early summer. Good luck with yours. -BEPNewt

That pic says it all. -BEPNewt