stakeside
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Posts posted by stakeside
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Here are some pictures of my 3/4 ton version of your truck. The color and trim are as they came from the factory in Stockton CA.
This will a great looking truck when finished. Looks like you have a great restoration in process.
If you have good pattern wood pieces they will be very helpful putting your cab together. I had to make all new wood.
I will send you a private message on this forum.
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Take old one to Napa. You may luck out. I got mine there for my 29 truck.
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On 7/23/2022 at 10:27 AM, TexRiv_63 said:
I am thinning out my hubcap collection and need to identify this DB item. It is fairly large, 3 5/8" wide by 2 5/8" high with 2 3/4" threads. It is pressed aluminum but is quite substantial, made of thick stock. I'd like to know the year and model it came on, thanks for your help.
Here is my 29 Dodge Bros 3/4 ton cap.
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Good to see trucks doing a job.
Here is my 29 Dodge Bros tribute truck.
My payload is a Stover hit-n-miss engine.
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On 4/10/2020 at 8:16 AM, stakeside said:
Need front retainer plate for my 29 Dodge truck. I will purchase entire trans if necessary.
Any help will be appreciated since this is the last piece for me to get The truck on the road. I am trying to avoid having the part fabricated $$$$$.
Still looking for front retainer plate.
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1 hour ago, jari12 said:
Time for an update. I spent all of July traveling to see family, gardening, canning, and fighting with my carburetor. The new float is just enough bigger to tease me with the idea that it would work but would end up sticking in the float chamber. The mount (hinge) from the original snapped from all of the bending I did trying to tweak the adjustment. So, I made a cork float and a new hinge from copper. Worked great until it soaked up fuel which did not take long. So I ordered some float sealer and that worked great but the carb still flooded. I found out that the float needle was not sealing. I had to buy a set of deep well 1/4" drive sockets to remove the seat. The new sockets were still too wide to fit in the carb. I turned the socket down and finally got the seat out. The same day, my new rebuilt original Detroit Lubricator carb showed up from Romar DB parts. I still think the Winfield Carb is cool, but I wanted this thing to run for more than a minute. The new carb looks great. I put it on but the choke lever slipped when I was installing it. Once I realized that and reset it the engine fired right up and stayed running. Now I get to dial it in but need to get the radiator in and the coolant hoses installed first. It's been a long frustrating summer but it's pretty cool to hear it run.
These are great carbs. Setting the choke is critical. Improper setting will cause excessive fuel use could wash oil out of cylinders. Do you have this publication?
1 hour ago, jari12 said:
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I use 600 wt in my 29 DB truck trans. This trans does not have seals for front and rear bearings and there is no oil dripping from the trans.
If your trans has seals you can use lighter wt of oil.
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Purchased this one in Sutter CA. Hence the tribute sign. This was a ground up restoration.
1929 Dodge Brothers 3/4 ton series “E” Stakebed.
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On 6/14/2022 at 1:52 PM, BryanC17reo said:
I'm looking for one or two Firestone rims with locking rings that take 600x20 tires , I think these were on many trucks in the early to middle twenties ,these are on a Reo Speedwagon truck .
Could post a picture of your truck?
would enjoy seeing it.
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19 hours ago, rjp said:
I think thats a York Hoover body. My 1930 chev had the same body. 4 hinges and the canopy looks the same.
NOT!
This is a body built by Graham Brothers.
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7 hours ago, LastFrontierDodge said:
Best source for vacuum fuel pump fittings? Thank you.
Is there a model Number on raised area?
You will need a rebuild kit that is available thru Meyers Dodge parts.i suggest your disassemble the vacuum tank and verify condition of inner and outer tanks. If water was present they may be rusted. Also purchase the following from DB club store.
This my operating Stewart Vacuum tank.
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Got it apart. Took a lot of 50/50 acetone trans fluid.
Part 25 is still a problem to remove.
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I am still having too much wandering of my steering and will need to get it fixed.
I Found that item 25 has been braised to the steering column. Not sure if this will effect my adjustments.
Also having trouble taking apart a second steering box for a rebuild. That one is not braised.
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On 6/14/2022 at 6:29 PM, 29GMC said:
I got my first project truck and am pretty excited to start working on it. This truck was my wife’s grandfathers truck. It was on the road last about 25 years ago but to my knowledge he started it up every now and then. Gas tank is drained with no rust. I have a few questions
can anyone identify the model? We apparently have a title somewhere but the estate is not finalized and they are not sure where it is.
Second, I know it’s a hot debate so here it goes… add a lead additive or not, or marvels mystery oil, or any other additive? I plan on running non ethanol gas.
I believe your truck is a composite built cab. If the wood is in good condition I suggest leave as is. Just take care of the running gear and brakes. Great original truck.
Here is my 1929 Dodge Bros 3/4 ton. This was a frame off restoration.
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For your information;
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I have lock rings from 29 Dodge Bros, 27 ford TT model and ford model AA truck. They fit on my 20” rim.
Be careful since these lock rings may have been distorted over the years of use and when putting air in tire you could have a most catastrophic failed with possible injuries.
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19 hours ago, BryanC17reo said:
I'm looking for one or two Firestone rims with locking rings that take 600x20 tires , I think these were on many trucks in the early to middle twenties ,these are on a Reo Speedwagon truck .
Similar to my 1929 Dodge Bros 3/4 ton rim. The tire rim is solid with no break. The lock ring holds the tire rim on the spoke rim.
There has much discussion on this forum about these rims
See attached sheet.
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All BB-1 Carters are not the same. They were made up to the 1950 and used on many applications. The internal parts vary. Be sure to verify the model number if you use on early 30 engine applications. The model plates usually attached to the carb are most likely missing.
BE CAREFUL.
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15 hours ago, 406mac said:
I will get pictures of the seat brackets tomorrow...I found the hood and took some pictures of the frame.....any idea where any identification numbers would be?
Too much grass. Can not see much.
Frame number located over front axle on drivers side for later trucks. If you could measure the wheelbase it will help ID the frame.
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20 hours ago, ArticiferTom said:
I am thinking little older . The back brackets may be part of back of seat cushion that folds up to access fuel tank . Also note curve door bottom as seen in 17 to 23 .
Good eye. This is better match and it’s a 1923 1-ton Graham Bros
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Here is my best guess for 1925. Only should be 3/4 ton.
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23 hours ago, ArticiferTom said:
Warranty tag does say Dodge Brothers on it .
If this is a 3/4 ton truck they are badged as Graham Brothers prior to 1928. Tag still carries Dodge Bros since chassis built by Dodge Bros.
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At first I thought this was a roadster type truck and I believe that Graham/Dodge did not offer a 3/4 ton roadster truck. How that I see the 3/4 ton designation on the dash "Warranty Tag" things get interesting.
This could have been an early "C" truck. The holes and back supports would be where the upper part of truck is attached.
Any pictures of the frame would help.
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This worked for me on my 29 Dodge Bros. Got from Willys parts supplier.
This works good on my 29 Dodge Bros. Sorry for rotated image.
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Dodge Bros truck
in Dodge Trucks
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I received your message on Sept. 30th.
Looking forward to your visit when available.