nvonada
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Posts posted by nvonada
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+1 on the truck place. I found a shop that does about 50% trucks and farm equipment. Alignments on the Stude and my tube tires did not phase them a bit.
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Shims are used on the control arms. The spring does not have a lot of adjustment to it. You might check to verify the shocks are all good and the spring does not have a broken leaf. Here is a picture of the shims on mine:
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They do get hot. Modern cars put the resistors in the airflow from the fan to help keep them cool.
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Was porosity the purpose for the red lead paint that all the car companies seemed to use?
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Radiator is gone, switch is still available.
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Not much interest on the SDC board so I will try here.
I am trying to thin out the clutter in the garage and top of the list are Studebaker parts for cars I don't own. So both of these are free to a good home (or even a bad one) as long as you are willing to pick it up or have it shipped. First on the list is a McCord radiator dated 1941 that is MUCH larger than the radiator on my Champion. It looks like a Stude radiator so it is probably for a President, Commander, or maybe a truck.
The radiator is certainly used and looks to have some repairs on some of the tubes. I don't know if that was before or after the leaks that stained it. Shipping is the bear here. This thing probably weighs 40-50 pounds. Or you can pick it up in Delaware, OH just north of Columbus. More pictures and measurements are here:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/cu49ZSTUfNH48uUo9
Second item that has to go is a Studebaker fog light switch. Works fine, knob is a bit boogered up and the fuse is blown. Good backup for any on-off switch if your car uses this style. Obviously this is a lot easier to ship. No extra charge for the overspray.
If interested PM me with your location and I can look up the shipping.
Nathan -
What are you looking for? I have been stashing parts for a while now.
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Have you checked the obvious stuff? In no particular order:
- Proper GL-1 lube. Drain the old oil. Any metal chunks?
- Motor mounts not broken or sagging. This can throw off your shift linkage geometry
- Broken or damaged shift linkage
- Shift linkage out of adjustment
- Clutch out of adjustment
With the noise in 2nd gear you can do a quick cheating test for linkage problems. Pop the car into 2nd gear then disconnect the shift rods. Make sure the levers are in gear on the transmission. Start the car and slip the clutch to get it rolling in 2nd gear. If the noise is not different your linkage or mounds cannot be causing the problem.
Good luck!
Nathan
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+1 on what Scott said. The mechanical voltage regulators in these cars tend to confuse the heck out of digital voltmeters. I have one that jumps all over the place and another that reads the wrong voltage. If you can get an analog voltmeter that is your best bet. My old tach/dwell/volt/ammeter works perfectly and shows 7.2 volts at 1000 RPM on my 6V system. 6V works great, but you have to make sure every connection is clean and tight, use the right gauge wires, and never forget it is positive ground.
Nathan
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One idea would be to take all the parts somewhere that services tractors. The internals of your rod end look just like the reach rod on my tractor.
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Can you swap tires between the two cars just to test? I used to give my car hints rather than actually steer it. Rebuilding the front end helped a lot but it was still not great. New Coker radials and it drives like a new one.
I adjusted the steering box but proper lube made a bigger difference. I started using the #00 (maybe #000?) John Deer Corn Head grease in there. It is thin enough move move around and thick enough to not run out.
Nathan
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Welcome aboard and sorry for your loss. I can help you with #2. This is an open non-pressurized cooling system. If you overfill it it will dump the excess overboard. On my car if I fill it much beyond 1/2" over the radiator tubes it will do exactly what you describe. It is possible you have a compression leak or something but I would let it puke until it stops, see where it is, then keep an eye on it. I bet it is fine from then on.
#3 sounds like the clutch is not disengaging. Does the car roll free in gear with the clutch depressed?
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Champion 6 plate. Here is mine:
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If the car is as nice as it looks in the picture that is a deal.
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Glad you found the problem! If you mean the distributor clamp then if it is loose it will move but it should not be loose. Some Autolites (and maybe others) had an octane adjustment for minor timing adjustments to compensate for fuel quality. If that comes loose your timing will bounce around a few degrees.
Your troubleshooting steps were a bit, um, troubling. If a car will not start I use these steps:
- Check spark. Bright blue spark means ignition primary and secondary circuits work.
- Check static timing
- Check gas. Quick and dirty test is to pour a little in the intake. if the engine coughs time to check further into the fuel & carb
- Check compression
I try to always assume the problem is in the ignition. Then when I am convinced it must be the carb I check ignition again. I find spark problems to be a LOT more common than fuel problems. A bad carb or carb adjustment will make the car run like crap but rarely will it not run at all. That goes double if the car was running recently. Carbs usually get worse over time, not stop working over night. A coil wire on the other hand can break any time...
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I crawled under my Champion and snapped some pictures. Captions in the info describe what you are looking at. I am not sure but I think everything from the brake handle to the end of the front cable is similar to your car. I can't remember how the rear cables attach to the brakes on a Commander so that might be different.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/sDbyyQAb3dMwCZGV8
Nathan
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I hope the grills are in the trunk...
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If that is an inertial (bendix) type starter it has to be very free on the motor shaft to work reliably. Mine used to stick every couple years. I finally used a little graphite-based lock lubricant on the shaft and it has been fine since.
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On these fittings there should be a sealing washer top and bottom. Is the stripped end a flare fitting? If so you may be able to drill it out and tap the hole for a NPT fitting then use an adapter to the brake line.
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On my 41 trunk handle there was no hole. I was chicken so I took it to a locksmith who drilled a hole in the right spot to get the cylinder out.
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No, the commander wheel is different. I used to own one but sold it years ago. I may have pictures of both if anyone needs them.
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Mad Max meets the Great Gatsby
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2
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+1 on the old tires. Remarkably mine are still intact and somewhat pliable. In different places on the car they used sidewall, tread, and combinations of the two to get things to sit right.
Nathan
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A big Harbor Freight bearing splitter makes a good start to a puller. I used that behind the wheel and a pitman arm puller hooked over the splitter to do the pulling. Pictures here:
1937 steering wheel puller
in Studebaker, Erskine & Rockne
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Your 37 wheel is probably very similar to my 41. You do need a puller, not hard to make. I used a Harbor Freight bearing separator, some threaded rod, and parts from a pitman arm puller. (tape was for protecting the paint)
Worked perfectly and total cost around $20. More/larger pics here: https://stude.vonadatech.com/wp/steering-wheel-removal/