Adambravo

AC has been off yesterday and today. I confess, I do not know how to check the belt tension—but am willing to learn.

Just noticed—after driving around on a hot day with the ac on—that my amp light is faintly glowing. If I park and rev the engine, it will go out, as it will at about 45mph. Loose belts? Other ideas? Thanks in advance...

I’m occasionally frustrated by the lack of a cup holder in my 63 and don’t like drinks rattling around in my center console. I’ve seen solutions on Amazon that slot a pocket between the seat and center console. Anyone ever try one out (or have other ideas? Thanks in advance... Inovare Designs Car Seat Gap Filler Organizer Crevice Storage Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PV6N45D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iD4cDbERC8VFM

So... not sure how this happened, but the crescent-shaped thumb 'lever' (where the person's thumb is in this photo) seems to have fallen off my cruise control switch. You'd think it would be somewhere on the floor, but no luck. Any ideas on a replacement source? There's an entire switch on eBay for sale, but I don't really need the whole thing...

So, I picked up what I believe are a set of base wheel covers (see photos), for a different look than the wire wheel covers it came with. The notes in the owners manual have me a bit confused (see photo); any tips/tricks I need to know before I start anything?

So, I posted about a year ago about shorting out something when one of the wires to my horn got caught up in the spring for the hood. Finally got around to bringing it into the shop, after getting a replacement relay from OPGI. Problem was that hooking up the relay resulted in this new relay getting fried. Working solution appears to be connecting the hood-mounted giant horns to the relay and bypassing the 'standard' horn. Doesn't sound quite as nice, but at least I've got sound. Wondering if there was a different horn relay used for the four-horn setup (and/or any other suggestions/ideas)... Thanks in advance,

Assuming the wiring checks out, I assume I will likely need this? https://www.opgi.com/riviera/G241022/ Also, the write up says "When the horn relay malfunctions, not only does the horn not work, but also it can cause a direct short for the whole electrical system causing the battery to drain." Sounds like I should disconnect the horn until this is tracked down...?

Speaking as someone who's not an electrical engineer, where is the relay? Is it something I can replace? I definitely don't have the skills to track down a short...

So, I was showing off the fancy four-note, hood-mounted horn on my '63. What I didn't realize is that the wire from the horn had gotten caught in the hood spring--so, when I hit the horn bar on the steering wheel, there was a bit of a spark under the hood. We untangled the wire (and secured it), but now the horn doesn't work. I assumed I had blown a fuse, but I can't figure out where it is. There's nothing listed in either the owner's manual or the chassis service book, and none of the labels on the fuse box say 'horn'. I did see one blown fuse, apparently for the power antenna, but replacing that doesn't seem to have done the trick. None of the other electrical bits appear to be malfunctioning. I can hear a click when I hit the horn bar--what obvious thing am I missing? Thanks in advance,

I don't drive my '63 at night a lot, but I just noticed last week that, at night (but not visible during the day), the AMP light in my dash is glowing ever so faintly. Doesn't seem to vary based on vehicle speed or lights on/lights off. Haven't noticed any other anomalies or issues. I do have a friend that will run some electrical tests this week. Wondering if I need to disconnect the batter when parked until I can get this seriously looked at, and/or might this be something I can address as an amateur... All input welcome. Thanks in advance...

Thanks for the link and explanation. Now, as I'm a bit out of my wheelhouse, can someone explain why several of these sites claim this battery will not fit my car? Also, if it helps, I do have the larger two-note horn on the driver's side of the hood, which I understand in certain circumstances might interfere with the battery cables.

A 27F? I'm on the website and it must be staring me in the face. Can you post the specific link? All I see are 24, 25, 25S, 26, 34, and 75. I would prefer not to order one, as my car is registered for a show this Wednesday, so any guidance as far as the other groups would help; I've seen notes here also suggesting a 24 is adequate.

I searched the forums and found references to a suggested 27F battery for my 1963. However, searching the local stores--Autozone, Advance, O'Reillys--I'm seeing groups 24, 25, 26, and 34, but no 27. Thoughts/suggestions? And, no, I forgot to check what kind of battery I currently have before I left for work this morning...

Mitch--yes, of course... Everyone--problem (apparently resolved). Was talking to a friend who indicated that, at $50, I might as well get a new fuel pump, 'cause you never know. Got it, had it installed at a local shop, and went on an hour long cruise today, hitting up to about 72mph on the freeway without any stumbling.

Rodney, Thanks--but Ed who? I'll need a little more to go on...

Bill--Thanks for the info. I think my first choice is to keep the original look--I just have no idea who would do what you describe. Sure--send me your guy's info; hopefully someone here has a contact in the metro Detroit area.

So... when I bought my '63, I was given the original AM FM radio, but the car had been fitted with a Custom Autosound radio and trunk-mounted CD changer. About two years in, the radio simply stopped working; since the CD changer still worked, I got another CAS radio. Four years later (about a month ago), that radio died as well. I had the old radio tested--which, at some point, had some amplifier added to it--but they are unable to get any sound out of it. As I have an FM transmitter for my iPhone, I don't really need anything fancier than decent AM FM sound; I figure I have a few options and wanted to sound out some opinions... 1. Send the original radio to get out and have it rebuilt with new, modern innards. No idea where to get this done or what it costs. 2. Buy a new, old-looking radio. I've heard mixed reviews on CAS, and have seen something different from OPGI (Retro Sound?) 3. Keep the current, non-functioning radio where it is and get a working radio fitted elsewhere (trunk, under-dash), with a remote. No interest in doing that. 4. Find an original radio. Seems rather difficult, although I did see one on eBay for $375. Suggestions/recommendations/experiences? Thanks in advance...

Just a quick update... Had a friend check vacuum (which was fine) and timing (which was just a hair advanced). Car is otherwise running fine (although city fuel economy, normally at around 11mpg, is now closer to 9mpg). I will be making arrangements to take the car to the shop in the near future, and will include all your notes here; fortunately, it's still fine for driving around town and cruising for ice cream...

Just got my '63 out of the shop and was having a friend look at some post-repair issues. He seems to think there's supposed to be a gasket of some sort so that, when the air cleaner fits on top of the carb, it prevents any air leakage. However, I can't seem to find anything like that in the service manual or on opgi.com (even though the idea makes sense). Am I missing something (literally or figuratively)? Thanks in advance...

My cautionary tale... My '63 came with a CAS radio and a trunk mounted CD changer. Within a year, the radio stopped working. Now, four years later, the 2nd unit appears to have stopped working again. I may try installing my original radio...

Question: was this a problem that developed over time? Prior to the car going into the shop, I had no problems whatsoever getting up to 80+mph. And, in the past, the car has sat up to 5 months in a detached garage with no problems, so I figured 8 months in a heated garage wasn't that big of a change. Have taken the car around since the highway driving glitch and still no problem--and will try it again later today on the highway.

Well, yes and no. Could you be a bit more specific on possible causes? A friend suggested a clogged fuel filter, or issues with the distributor and points, which would both affect the car at higher speeds but not at lower speeds.

So, long, horrible story... 1. Brought my '63 into the shop last July for some serious electrical issues. At the time, it was driving ok--mainly rather rough when cold. 2. Picked up the car a month later--it was barely driveable, stalling frequently. Had it towed back. 3. Carburetor needed to be rebuilt. Housing was warped, so we bought a matching-number unit on eBay (which turned out to be marginally functional, but not warped). Eventually sent both units to an expert in California to create one working carb. 4. Carb arrived in January (here in Michigan). Shop hung onto the car until the roads were clean enough to drive it, and changed the oil along the way. 5. Picked up the car this week, and, with the tank nearly empty, gave it a fresh tank of premium . Starts good, idles smooth, but, on the first trip on the highway, I noticed that at around 70mph indicated (63mph actual), it was running a bit rough. Didn't want to push it for fear of stalling. Once I got off the freeway below 60-65mph indicated it was once again running fine. I'm hoping this is due to the car sitting for eight months (fortunately, a heated garage), but figured I'd solicit some input from the experts out there. Thanks in advance...

Thanks--only found two threads (one labeled '62', which threw me off). Prior to getting the car towed to the shop, it was running like crap from the get-go at any temperature, repeatedly stalling. Ironically, I had just had some electrical work done...

So, I've been going thru some carburetor drama on my otherwise lovely '63... After a sudden bout of sputtering and stalling, my mechanic (who's got a guy trained on Rochesters) rebuilt my existing unit. Upon installation, it ran ok, but got worse the warmer the engine got. The thought was that the flaw was in the carburetor housing, so we went on eBay and found a unit with the matching eight-digit numbers. That unit, despite a claim of 'factory tested', wasn't even as good as the rebuilt unit. At the moment, they are attempting to build a single working carb from the two units I now have, but, longer term, they think I will need an aftermarket (they mentioned Edelbrock) unit and new intake manifold to go along with it. I'm find with a non-standard carb--I'm more interested in driving than winning a show. Don't necessarily need a performance boost--just something reliable. Recommendations? Warnings? Thanks in advance...​