Roger Zimmermann

Thanks John! To respond to commentars is in my opinion basic politeness. Due to your location, Hawaii, (maybe the paradise on earth, even if I was unfortunately never there) I know that you are following this thread since a long time!

Oups! I was really not fishing for compliments...I feel that I have to give some comments. @ Randy (Randiego) Many thanks for the belt kit you let send to my home address. They will be useful on the Unimat 3 as well as the Unimat SL (the first Unimat machine) I'm still using. I really appreciate this attention! @ John (unimogjohn) I don't understand very well the first sentence but I can assure you that this poor engine will never run, as it was not designed for. That whole thing is just an illusion! If I'm publishing here what I'm doing is indeed for entertainment. According to the number of views, it seems that I'm on the right track; I thank everyone who is still there since the beginning of that mad adventure. @ Geoff (Model56s) I'm sure that the engine on the frame (sans exhaust!) is somewhere in this thread. It seems that it's a good thing to show again "old" elements, especially when something new is added. By the way, the expansion at the end of the pipe is again an illusion: it's a larger tube soldered to the pipe. Regarding the functionnality of the engine, please look my answer to John. According to what I saw on other forums, it could be probably possible to have a running engine, although at 1:12 it may be very difficult as some elements would be very small, think at the valves. Other elements like crankshaft or pistons would be possible; with the proper equipment I could do that. However, I let you imagine the machines needed to manufacture such precision elements...my Unimat machines are way inadequate! @ dan (dan@larescorp) In case my steering box would get too much play, would your company restore it? As you maybe know, it's almost the same box as 56 to 58 Cadillacs, produced by Saginaw. @ Scott (Scott_DG8) This forum is in fact dedicaced to real cars; the audience is totally different here that a scale model forum. As I wrote to John, what I'm doing is entertainment and it seems that it works! I understand also that it's not possible to make a comment after each update; it's not the goal. And don't feel inferior: look at what I did many, many years ago: This represents the first frame for the Avanti model; in was in...1963. my skills improved somewhat since that time. @ Accord: I'm increasing the international audience to Russia! OK, after that long text, I'm going back to the exhaust clamps; still 10 to do!

Interesting those two comments for which I'm grateful. Somedays ago, I finished the trunk lid and the difficult lock, I got no comments. Today, 2 pictures with rather easy parts and 2 comments! This is not that I would like answers for each update; I'm just wondering what is the trigger for them!

Thanks, keiser31!

Although the mufflers and resonators are done since about 3 years, I was waiting for the body to continue with the pipes. Now, the next step was to finish the front inner fenders as the first pipe is going through them. I decided that it was more logic to adapt the inner fenders to the exhaust pipe that the contrary. Therefore, we continue with pipes and clamps. The first pipe attached to the manifold is covered by a zinc coated insulation. As I cannot do a tube and then slip on it a flexible insulation, I had the idea to skip the inner tube; but how can I do that insulation? Well, I took a bit of brass tube and machined grooves; of course I had to do a suitable too for that. This process is not correct as in fact the groove should be helicoidal. I'm sure nobody will notice my trick! Then it was just a matter to bend the ribbed tube at the desired shape. With the proper reduction, the main pipe can be installed, without clamp for the moment. The resonator needs also a clamp to stay; for the moment the whole assembly is attached to the frame with a tape... As you may understand, the complete exhaust system cannot be installed on the frame before the body is assembled; the insulator is to be installed after the front fenders are on the car (not a very practical system). One of my problem was: when the front fenders are on the car, how can I screw the first pipes to the manifold? The solution: a short fake pipe with the flange will be screwed on the engine before the front fenders are installed and then the insulator will be pushed on the fake pipe. Thanks to a tight fit, no glue will be necessary.

Spinneyhill, why did you have to drill a hole into a pivot? When I have to turn a shaft with a hole, I'm doing the hole first and then I'm turning the shaft to his final diameter. I only have twist drills; I don't even know the pivot drills...And yes, feeling is required to drill small holes; sometimes I'm getting also broken bits...The most difficult is to remove the broken part! I also did a search in the Schupbach site; I could not find the third hand. Maybe they buy a batch and when it's gone, it's gone...That tool is from GRS product division, Glendo corporation in Emporia, Kansas.

Well, Dwight, 0.9 mm represents in real life 10.8 mm (0.425"). On that specific part, this is a lot. If I have the possibility to correct my wrong estimates, I'll do it. I have no time pressure (well, not too much!), just my own satisfaction and, by accident, to entertain people like you. Take care with your knee!

In other words, the new trunk lid lock is done! I could rescue the primary pawl, the one contacting the striker. The locking pawl was rescued too; I modified it to fit a little locking spring. Of course, the lever unlocking the lock is new. I can say that this lock is better than the first one; furthermore I can remove and install it into the lid! Here are the various parts: the striker, attached to the body, the outer shell from the lock and the lock itself. The outer shell and the lock are soldered together: After choosing the right position from the 4th inner side of the lid, I soldered it to the outer shell. The link was pulled on the first lock to release the lock; now it's pushed like the original car. To open the trunk lid, a small screwdriver can be used. The intend was to have the slit perfectly vertical; it is not but will be hidden by the cover which will be definitively installed when the ornament is chrome plated.

I just don't thrust any remote location to store data. All the pictures I have are stored on my PC plus external hard drive. Both cannot fail at the same time.

Thanks Dan for this explanation about what you are doing; sounds interesting. The less interesting aspect (it's not your fault) is to ship back and forth a steering gear from Europe!

Due to a wrong design, I can begin again the trunk lock. When I installed the current one on the lid, all went well, as I could close and open the lid the correct way. Due to a small problem, I tempted to remove the lock from the lid and noticed that the lever which is connected to the cylinder should be placed the same side than the other internal levers. When placed the way I did, it takes too much space and the removal or installation of the lock is just impossible...

Dan, I'm jumping at this topic as I already saw that your company is rebuilding steering boxes. Usually, a "rebuilt" steering gear has almost as much play as before because in a recirculating balls system, the balls are available but not the worm and/or nut. I'm wondering is you have the possibility to restore those 2 elements (worm and nut) as per OEM specifications?

Thanks for your comments! About the pictures: I have all stored on an external hard disk. I was once confronted by a hard disk failure; fortunately, most was recovered. This adventure was hepful to invest in that separate hard disk.

Randy, I'll answered your PM... You are right about the books. This kind of publishing is also available here. Something to think about...My pictures are stored on my hard disk, I can send some if you like. The helmet was mosty realized with a file and sometimes with an improvised engraved tool. The final touch was with a bit of emery paper.

The small cover over the key hole was completed yesterday. It looks similar to the real one with some differences: the eye's protection is a tad too large and the poor guy will stay in the dark: I did not do the slot into that protection: too small and too risky: if my calculation is correct, the slot would be 1.1 x .2 mm (.04 x .008")

Dwight, you are asking things I don't have the answer any more! That's why a book from me is an illusion. I went back to page 7 and I found probably the answer: a thin plate from .3 mm is soft soldered to a thicker base. I probably did machine as much as I could, most certainly all letters. Then I heated the whole assembly to have the letters away from the base. Therefore, they are already "tinned" on the back. Then a thin coat from solder was put on the air cleaner, not thick enough to have the letter floating and swimming on the base part. Then it was a matter to have enough heat to solder each letter, most probably one after the other and with the help of a fine tool to dictate the proper location. That's my problem: once a part is done, after a while I don't remember how I did because this problem will maybe never come back. No, I have no jeweler's blade; it would probably help along with other tools from this fine art. Thinking in advance about some difficult parts? Yes, I do; for example the front grille. I have some ideas how to do it, but nothing concrete. I'm convinced that there is one solution which I can use with my existing tools. I certainly wrote this at the beginning of this story: I fell on my head when I was 15; this explain most of my behavior!

I was aware that it would not be a "quick" part; the time I had to spend up to now is more than one week. OK, I'm usually slow and not 12 hours per day on the job. Here is what I have up to now: You cannot see them: there are 4 studs on the back to attach the ornament to the lid. The part may be shiny, but it's far from ready for plating. The cover for the lock is still in the same shape as for 10 days; this is the next step. It will be movable, but not spring assisted like the right one. I have my limitations! On the lid: The lions and points are made on a plastic plate on the real car; this is the reason why the small part is a separate part from the main ornament. As I wrote earlier, this will be a decal on the model.

Well...It takes a lot of space into that small trunk! Hard also to do some maintenance to the battery, for example to control the water level. Maybe with a mirror? How do you attach that black box to the body? If there are internal bolts/screws, you will not be able to put the battery in!

Thank you for your comments, Randy. About Gerald Wingrove: I'm not aware that he did 3 books, I have "only" two! As these books had a definitive impact how I'm doing my parts, no wonder that you can see the similarities between us both. The Unimat lathe: those belts are a nuisance! I did that picture from a soon to be failed belt to show that it can be used even with that king of damage. Another belt failed two or 3 days ago; I still have two in stock. As the supplier is selling only the complete kit, I have a large stock of the smaller belts, I could open a store! Thanks for the link; I may order a belt ot two from this location; however, I did not check if he is exporting. As Mr. Libuse from the Craftsmanship Museum has (or had) an Avanti, my work with that model is included in the car models section. Some pictures from the Mark II parts are included too. I know Kenneth Foran; I have his book but I got not so much inspiration with this book than with the ones from Gerald. About books: you may wait a long time about a book from me as I have no intention at all to do that. When I'm looking at my previous two models, sometimes I'm asking myself "how did I that?" Not very encouraging to write a book if I'm asking that kind of question! Then, the book should be writen in French, my mother language. Is there a market for that in French? not sure...Plus a translation in English? Don't forget that the people who write books are usually professionnals. They go from meet to meet so they can sell some books. You see the problem...

Trivial question! This time, not difficult to anser: during the week, a smal radio is playing in the kitchen until I have my breakfast (can be at 10.30 or 11.00 PM, but I'm up about at 8.00 AM). Then, nothing for the rest of the day, but my computer is usually running next to my workplace. That way I can have a look at the pictures I'm taking for a specific part or answer my mails. During the week-end, the home radio is playing. I have also laudspeakers in the room I'm working; I'm listening a Swiss oldies radio or, if I'm in good mood, CDs. TV is for the evening when I'm not on my work place.

It's not the right place to cut corners as the ornament will be in plain view. Some elements are partly done: The part in the center will be the cover over the lock. Here is a view of the real thing: For the moment, this small part will be a guide to do the ornament's horizontal and vertical bars. I will try to shape the head at a later date.

As you can see from the picture, the lock is partly done and strong enough to lift the rear of the model. This picture is also telling where the long part from my previous picture is going: to the lower inner structure from the lid. The lock is temporarily attached to that structure with a bracket because if I'm soldering it to the exterior lock cover, it would be impossible to make corrections/adjustments to the inner levers as I could not remove them for rework. This is the main difficulty from this lock. Now, I will have to do something different, but related to the lock: the lid ornament. As the key to open the trunk is going through this ornament, I have to do it now. If I would solder the inner structure to the lid and close it, it would stay for ever closed...

The process is correct: first the hole and then...working with a file, a small one of course! Probably for the definitive part I will mill the part. Sometimes it's quicker with a file...Such small parts are clamped in my small vice. A magnifier glass is also required!

To be complete, the trunk lid needs a lock. I did already trunk locks for my other models; there should be no difficulties here! However, there are some: the striker is not vertical but pointing towards the rear; the lock itself has the same incline. The sheet metal from the trunk is inclined towards the front; how can I fix all together? I don't know yet; there will be a solution the next few days. I did some prototypes; some parts are already (I hope) definitive...For the moment, I have those parts on hand:

Well, Dwight, you are more prolific in writing than me! And, with the amount of things you are doing, creating your own thread would be useful, especially for people who are not looking at my own. You have a lot of questions, I will try to answer them all. Using a file to soften the contour of a part is OK (I'm doing that too) but when there is a recess, another method is to be used. Here too, the danger to have the tool catched by a jaw is a reality; even with low speed it can hurt! You are right, I'm using a soldering iron to attach the bands to the master tire. It required to have either gloves or a good protection for the hands...The bands are just soldered at 4 or 5 places, because the more you solder the band(s) the more cleaning you have to do by removing the excess solder. I did the bands longer than needed and trim them individually as needed. As they are made with brass, they cannot be elongated. However, there are other methods to do tires; if you have the oportunity to go to http://www.scalemotorcars.com/ you will also see fantastic things. As I noted somewhere, I'm not the "inventor" from all the methods I'm using, like for example using paint for the letters on the tires. This is the method described by Gerald Wingrove, a modeller by trade, in one of his books. Thanks to West Peterson who gave the link to your discussion with Jay Leno. I was far away to imagine that my thread would indirectly involve Jay!