Roger Zimmermann

Is the dash insulation not installed first?

Indeed, the failure I'm experiencing is the result of a wrong calculation. To calculate the pitch from the striker I did a major mistake: I used more or less the distance between 2 teeth at the outside diameter. The pitch is calculated with the formula: pi x module = 3.14 x .35 = 1.099 or, practically 1.1. I used 1.7...No wonder that my wheel, even if not perfect, could not go on the striker! I will probably redo the striker a third time; but I'm waiting for the answer from the outside supplier. The way the pitch is calculated differs between Europe and the USA, which is the reason most of you will not understand the word "module".

One step forwards, two steps back...This is happening also in scale models. I'm putting the door lock on a back burner for the moment: the gear wheels I did are not precise enough to go further with them. I began the striker and, obviously, I will have difficulties to close the doors properly with such irregular teeth. I spoke this morning with a company doing gears; maybe they will cut the teeth from my own pieces. It will cost a leg, but at least I will get a gear looking like a gear. However, we are just talking for the moment, nothing is done.

As I expected, it's not an easy task! The first job was to figure how I can do it. For those who never had a look at a lock, here is a '59 Cadillac lock I removed about 30 years ago. I sold most of the parts from this car; fortunately, I still have just this lock, so I can look at it for inspiration: The design is similar to the one from the Mark II; there is a star wheel inside, connected to the outside one. My lock will not be so complicated because I will not do the locking mechanism, just what's needed to open and close the doors. The Mark II lock is not a good design in my opinion. Look at the other side from the Cadillac lock: The turning wheel is protected by a hood which is also a bearing. This missing element is probably the reason why there are some difficulties with Mark II locks; sometimes people cannot open their door any more. With the outer bearing missing, there is are lot of efforts on the bearing between both wheels and, with use, there can be some wear. Another point: the way the lock was designed, the external hood would have been upside down, ready to get all the water a car can get. I saw a picture from a '57 Lincoln, the construction was similar to the Cad one; maybe the people at Lincoln had a better idea! I will try to add an inside bearing but the window's guide is just in the way. I had also a difficult choice about the material to use. Of course, brass is the first choice. It can be chromed for added strength but, in this case, the star wheel had to be silver soldered to the outside wheel when the assembly is done. To let chrome a moving assembly is a risk I will not take. Therefore, I'm doing the wheels with mild steel which will stay unplated. I began with the outside wheels; I was not especially pleased with the first two but the second pair is not better. I used about 3 days for those 4 wheels; with a proper equipment, they would be cut in 5 minutes! Together with the wheels you can see both bearing which are located between the outside wheel and the inner star wheel. The shafts from the wheels are much too long; I needed the length for the fabrication; the shafts will be trimmed when the inner star wheel is soldered.

Yesterday I could finish the cowl by adding the flange for the windshield and some finishing details. With what should I continue? As I like to have the doors on the model, they open and close each time the body is handled. Therefore, I will do now the locks. 3 models, 3 completely different types of locks: the Toronado had the style with the large bolt on the "B" pillar; the Avanti has the Mercedes lock type and the Mark II has the rotary type, the most difficult to construct with my equipment. I'm adding pictures from the real thing.

That almost car was again put in pieces to continue the construction. While it was away from the building frame, I did the reinforcements and body mount #2, located near the "A" pillar's base. Then I continued with the top of the cowl. It's not a huge part, but complex as it has the provision for the wipers, the flange for the windshield and, in my case the base for the dashboard. On the real car this part is welded on the structure; to facilitate the assembly, the dash will be attached with screws on the model. I had some brainstorming about the way to do the wiper shafts and how to attach them to the body. A system was developed allowing inserting the shaft and wiper from outside; a retainer at the cowl's structure will prevent the assembly to come out. I could have decided to use some glue, but I don't like that kind of assembly. Of course, the wipers are not yet done, only on paper! It was almost the same for the hand brake. On some pictures, I can see the handle, but how that thing was attached remained a mystery until somebody from the Mark II forum sent me some pictures. I began with the supporting bracket, attached it with screws on a temporary basis at the cowl as well as the flange for the hand brake itself. These are the long screws visible on the second picture. Of course, they will be trimmed later at the appropriate length. The third picture is showing the real hand brake assembly. One day, "mine" will look about the same.

Usually I don't look at films running more than 2 minutes, but I did look at this one! Thank you for sharing it.

My only point was that to restore a car, no matter the initial condition, or build a model requires different techniques. Even if I can consider myself a good modeller, I'm learning tricks from others. Fortunately, nobody knows all and everybody can learn something from somebody else.

This '32 Chevrolet is not exactly like yours but the main body is looking very similar. Strangely enough, there is no reference of a scale on the link. I suppose it's a 1: 24 or 1:25.

Oh Pat, you are really serious about your plan! You will have plenty to read and get frustrated too, because some details are so incredible...Thinking about the shape from your Chevrolet: if I would do it, I would do some parts, like the fenders, in polyester as round shapes are difficult to do in metal. You will see yourself!

OK, at least more than one message to respond! To Willys 77: I'm not so convinced that the books are unnecessary: I learned some interesting "how to do" tips, for example the way to do tires. To restore a car or to build a scale model requires totally different techniques; I'm well placed to say that because I restored also 3 cars. Mark II total length when ready: 18.2"; wheelbase 10.5". To Pat: if you are serious about modeling, buy both. See my remark to Willys77. The debate is open if I'm as good as Gerald. I do things differently because I'm doing that just for me, without too much time pressure with the exception of my own age and, secondary, for the viewer from this forum (and others). To lordairgtar: Norway or Sweden are far away from Switzerland! As you can see from my answer to Pat, I'm not eager to go to shows. My exposure to some forums is enough to me; of course, there is a huge difference to see a model or whatever on a screen or in reality. Nice week-end to all!

Not at all, Pat. Have a look here: http://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/index.html There are plenty of people doing small "machines". The difference between a car model and a real one (except the size)? For a real car, you need space and outside help. People are looking at what you are doing because sometimes you have the garage door open. Once completed, you go out with your car and, especially yours, people notice and like it. There is so much more exposure to real cars compared to scale model...Once the Mark II will be finished, it will stay behind glass, unless I can reduce myself to sit in!

Thanks! I did know that if I'm showing the actual body on the frame there would be some reaction! I understand also that showing a pillar in construction is not so exciting... To Martin: I did restore cars scale 1:1 (the 3 older ones in my signature); it a rather different art of work. However, I like to do small things and I have less competition!

Thanks Scott! You are right, there is still a lot do do. The front clip is a major task and then all the small details like chrome parts, locks (door locks are coming soon as it's anoying to have doors banging when the body is handled...), dash, and so on...

Just for the fun, I put the body on the frame after the second windshield pillar was soldered to the structure. The roof is also just put on the body, held with 2 screws at the sail panels.

Some days ago, I began the windshield pillars. They are strange pieces of metal, not related to the body, they are like floating somewhere. When I began to attach the first one to the body, it was clear that I had to do something to locate it with more or less precision and keeping both hands free. A piece of cardboard was quickly cut and bent; it's a good helper! Unfortunately, I only can use it on the left side; due to the costs involved, a jig for the right side has been cancelled. Then, I had the good idea to check the pillar with the roof on the body. I was well inspired because once the roof was temporary installed, I noticed that the top from the outer panel's left door was too much inwards. After some rework, I'm now pleased with both doors and the pillar will be at the right place. Once soldered to the body and without the roof, the pillars will be in the way most of the time, but they are to be in place before the filler between hood and windshield can be soldered.

You know, it was more a joke than something else. You can go out in the morning and be surprised by a thunderstorm. Can happens all the time. I don't like to drive in the rain with my older vehicles (with the recent one either) and I sealed the windows too! The last time I drove under heavy rain was with the '56 de Ville, some years ago: I had rented a stand at the first US meet from the season; it was raining the whole day. I was glad to have a leak free car...

Par, if you sealed those windows, it means that yu intend to go out with the car when it's raining?!

Thanks Willys77!

After the door jambs, it was time to continue with the A pillars. Well, I had more difficulties than anticipated. That pillar should look like that: Seems rather easy to do, until I was going at it. Even with many pictures, the real shape is difficult to be scaled down to the model. However, before I began it, I searched what could be easy to do. Ah! There is a reinforcement at the upper hinge. I'll do that first. This small bracket is really effective to add some rigidity at the pillar. Once those easy things are done, well, I had to pack it. I expected to make the vertical part in one piece but I could not get the curves right, so I cut it just before it get almost horizontal. The remaining elements were soft soldered after I was sure that there was no interference with the door. I will however have to be careful with the paint: just a light coat, like at the factory then! Here is the result: For the moment, the fourth side of the pillar is still open. As long as I'm "playing" with the doors, it's easier to take both pins out from the hinges than unscrew 6 or 8 screws, depending if the door alone is coming away or with the hinges. You will probably notice that the real car had 2 fillers at the hinges to improve the appearance. This will added at the end as they will be cemented with silicone as there is a lack of space to add screws, even small ones. Now, the other side is waiting...

Ah! Those funny details! You may not know all (neither me) but at least you know that Switzerland is small!

From where I'm located, driving 600 km will let me cross the borders from Switzerland in each direction! It may not be totally correct; I believe that 250 km is the greatest length from that country...Unfortunately, our vacation is not on the Riviera, but on the cheap coast situated between Nîmes and the Spanish border!

This was a long time ago, If I remember well!

Sorry Pat, what does that means: "Them thar hills"? If you are speaking slang with me, I'm lost! To answer your question: our vacation home is in France, near Nîmes.

Thanks fyreline to take the time to correct me. As the term "jam" is acceptable, I let it that way. About interference: I will have to fight with that in both cases (pillar first or door jamb first); however, I have the impression that doing the A pillar after the door will be a simplification. About time off: as we have a house at 600 km from our regular flat, we go there 4 times per year for maintenance, relaxing and light life. So, these breaks are "calculated" through the whole year! Have also a good and healthy new year!