Roger Zimmermann

The last few days saw detail work on the frame. It's almost finished with the big exception of the front part, the one on which the front suspension is attached. I could now install the rear bumper, if I had it, as well as the rear springs which are also not yet born. With the paste I have to solder, I could install the small brackets for the emergency brake (it will be functional, as on my 2 other models). The challenge was that the brackets had to be soldered on a round and incline surface, without possibility to temporary fix them. Fortunately, that paste gets sticky when heated and the brackets stayed in place. Another advantage of the paste is that it requires a minimum of rework; with the rod, there is usually too much material on the joint and it must be removed.

Some progress is to be reported to the frame. The center rail is completed, with all necessary holes. The small bracket for the emergency brake was soldered with the soldering paste; this avoids shifting the part with the soldering rod as it happens to me so many times! The first picture is showing that module. The bottle of my blowtorch is almost empty; I had to shuttle the bottle during soldering to increase the intensity of the heat! I cannot resist to show you this small installation. The last picture is showing the soldering paste. Castolin is a Swiss product, world wide known; there are probably other manufacturers of similar products. The paste has the same alloy than the rods I'm using, type 1802 from that manufacturer. It is liquid at about 650°C; the bonding joint is stronger than the brass I'm using.

Thank you for the kind words! It seems that talent = 10% inspiration and 90% perspiration! What models did you build in those 41 years? With what for material and at which scale? Did you read the books of Gerald Wingrove? Some thechniques I'm using now are described in both books he wrote. Are you located in the USA?

I don't know...With some imagination, when you look at the completed frame from above and a cow also from above, there are some similarity in the outside shape (less the horns). Was that the reason of the name? I really don't know.

The crossmember # 3 was completed with a new technique (from the book "The complete car modeller #2 from Gerald Wingrove): I soldered the studs for the shock absorbers with a paste containing the brazing material. This way, I avoided too much soldering material with the associated rework. I have to say, I'm satisfied from the results. I have to, because the small bottle of 250 grams is costing about 1 $ per gram! And, like food, the product is good for one year! When completed, the crossmember was soldered to one rail. Then, I began the middle rail or "Y". That part is easy looking, but it's not the case. The square tube was quickly done, but the branches going at an angle gave me some trouble. The first image is showing the "Y" not yet completed, temporary installed on the front tubes. The other problem I had was to form the crossmember # 2: I had no tube of the correct diameter, so that part was solid at first. My bits are too short to drill it entirely; I could only drill about 40 mm deep. A large hammer was needed to bent the solid brass and, due to the large brass mass, I had to heat a long moment that part to solder it to the "Y". The rear part of the frame is almost ready to be assembled definitively; however, I have now to drill all the holes which are on the inner side of the rails. My initial idea was to solder definitively the rear part of the frame only when the front rails were inserted into the front tubes. This process is too risky, the front of the frame will be done only when the rear part is completed.

The boot is not quite easy to install/remove, I agree! A tip? Don't hurry...

Lou, nice car but not complete: where is the hard boot?

I'm glad if I still can amaze you and other people!

As usual, the time needed to construct something is all the time shorter in the mind as it is in reality. The frame is a good example! Anyway, the side members are ready; some finishing process is still needed but that will happens when all elements are soldered. The next step was to bore the holes for the cross members which are of various diameters and shape. The easy one (at the rear) was indeed cut too short; I had to do another one, no big deal. It is now silver soldered at the LH side rail. In the picture below, the next cross member, the one for the shock absorbers, is just inserted into the holes. Before I can solder one end, I have to fabricate and solder the studs for the shock absorbers. The next Crossmember is just inserted into the side members, but not yet ready: there must be a dip in the middle of it. As you may be able to see, it's not a tube, but a plain piece of brass. The ends will be bored to create the illusion of a tube. This afternoon, I installed and soldered the large front tubes. They are linked by a smaller piece of brass, just for the temporary stability of the assembly. The inner ends will be trimmed when the rail for the front suspension are put in place. The next steps? Finishing the crossmembers # 2 & 3.

Last week, I formed the rear parts of the side members and attached them to the front parts. The trick is to silver solder both elements while keeping the general shape. So far, so good. The inner rail is thicker as the outside one: .5 mm versus .3 mm. If I should do the frame again, I would choose .4 mm for the outside rail: once heated, the thinner one is soft like cheese; this fact is responsible for bad surprises. The body will be attached to the frame with screws; at the factory, nuts were welded to the inner rail. I cannot do that because of my primitive setting. To overcome the difficulty, I silver soldered a long strip at the upper inner rail. This operation can be seen on one picture. Then I had to adjust the inner rail to the outside one; when this was done, I inserted small pins to avoid a displacement during the heating process. All went well so far. To bend .5 mm brass required much more efforts than the .3 mm; therefore I decided to do the inner rail in 3 parts. The straight line are not a problem, the curves are! Halas, the small "in between" part was not fixed properly and shifted during the soldering process. The shape from above was out of line, I had to correct it, creating some damages to the outer surface (it's the bad surprise). To hide it, I had to solder a piece of brass over the damaged section...I just hope that I can avoid that with the second rail. The last picture is showing the first finished rail and the second one has the first inner part installed. Before the cross members will be soldered, a good cleaning and finishing will be required.

Now that the forms are completed, it's time to continue with the real parts. The indentation on the side was easy to do thanks to a careful preparation; the remaining was bending and bending again... You will notice on the picture that the side members are not in one piece: my brass sheet was too short! Even with enough length, I had certainly done the side members in 2 pieces for ease of handling. The rear part of the side members is not yet formed as you can see. On the top of the picture, there is the cross member on which the rear shock absorbers are fitted. Just below, it's the easier part I have for the frame: the rear cross member just after the tank: it's a straight tube! Of course, there will be 2 bracket silver solder on it to fix the trunk's floor; this will be done when all is installed.

It add certainly some flexion strength, but, if you look at the drawings you supplied to me, it's mainly a clearance for the exhaust tubes. Without that, the tubes would just touch the outside surface of the frame. No good for noise and rattles!

Today, I finished the second frame's form, as well as the die necessary to reproduce the indentation on the side of the frame. On the picture, a small sample of the side has been done as a test. Now, the fun will begin, however not at home: I need a larger vice to bend the sheet metal around the forms.

After 10 days holiday, I'm back to business, the model and other tasks. Today, I could finish the LH side rail's form. Why don't use it as is? Again, the weight problem. Then, I may have difficulties to silver solder the cross members as the heat source I have is rather limited. The final aspect is also important: the side members are done as double "U" elements welded together. There is a step between the outer element and the inner one; the part in full could not show it. Another aspect I still have to confirm: I have the impression that double "U" form is less flexible than a part in full. I will have confirmation when I'm that far as the form will still be available.

Olds wheelcovers. Unfortunately, I'm not home to check the year in my hubcaps bible.

What? the picture below is showing the side rails from the frame? Not exactly: these ugly parts are the form on which the messing will be formed. These parts must first be trimmed before the forming can begin. This will require probably more work that to bend the sheet metal...

The first task I intended to do was the side members. However, I have to do a form in brass to hammer the sheet metal on it. This will be done probably tomorrow; this form will not be done home as I have to bend it; the small hammer I'm using home will not be enough; therefore I will form it where my cars are stored. I began easy parts: the crossmember (it is in 2 parts) which is on most '56 models and deleted on some '57 ones. Each half crossmember is dome with 2 pieces of brass .4 mm thick. Some small holes missing; they will be done later.

You are too kind! I suppose yu were trying to show your wife the 1:6 Duesenberg model with running engine. It's not the same art of work; his creation is nevertheless fantastic.

After the power steering pump, it would be logical to continue with the A/C compressor. However, this is a tight fit at the front of the engine; this explains why the road draft tube has some indentations. Therefore, I had to do the oil filler and draft tube first. I will certainly have to add more indentation on the tube when I'm "installing" the compressor but I'm not yet so far. To tell the truth, I have enough for the moment with the myriad of small parts to be added to the basic engine: today, I ordered a large piece of brass to begin the frame; at least something large and easy (maybe) to do! This will force me to finish the frame drawing I began long ago. When I was at the draft tube, I did also the tube for the dip stick; this part is different for cars with A/C.

After the air cleaner duct, it was the turn of the power steering pump. I did first the easy part: the pulley...then, the reservoir and cover, easy parts. The difficulties began with the first support, the one which is attached to the water pump. 3 holes are given, but where to place the other 2? Thanks to the great number of pictures I have, the completed part is looking right. The second support was another matter: few infos and the drawing in the shop manual is obviously incorrect. As I was totally in the blue, I continued with the next element: the pump body. The shop manual is giving a rather good breakdown of the part and fortunately, last year I had measured the diameter of the reservoir cover. When the pump body was done, I could come back to the second support, doing it at first in cardboard...Once done in brass, the great moment came: will the pulley of the pump align with the one from the crankshaft? You bet, it did not. I had to modify the thickness of both supports (which was only estimated) until the alignment was correct. The motor will not be functional, but the idea to have misaligned pulleys is against my nature! Once this detail solved, I could finish the pump. Still missing is the star nut to close the cover; for the moment there is just a too long screw which is just here to avoid loosing the cover.

Now I understand better. Your first post mixed 2 issues... Interesting enough, there is no circuit diagram for the trunk lock in the '56 shop manual, but there is one diagram in the '57 manual. Your problem is that the wiring from the switch in the glove box to the lock solenoid in the trunk is probably interrupted (by the roof?) The attached diagram will maybe help you; '57 must be the same or similar to '56. Definitively, English from England or Australia has sometimes nothing to do with American English...

OK, English is not my mother tongue, but I really don't understand what you are saying! There is just one motor and pump to open and close the roof, all the rest is to be done by hand! Power boot release? Are you really dealing with a '56 Biarritz? If you disconnected the roof struts, you can open and close the roof without the help of electricity. Maybe a picture of what you are explaining would be a great help!

Now I am with you Lou! Imagine that poor guy searching for a relay.... Your car is really good looking! The black roof is a hard contrast, but, as you noted, the car came that way from the factory. I would have probably done the same.

Knowing the skills from Greg, it would not be too difficult to do one handle in brass and let chrome it! Another possibility is to laser weld the diecast part; it can be done; I have an address...in Switzerland.

Are you sure? According to the shop manual, there is just a circuit breaker behind the kick panel. Anyway, my own Biarritz has no relay. To robo: if the motor is turning, then you may have not enough hydraulic oil in the reservoir or the pump is not getting enough pressure. There is just one circuit breaker, no fuse.