Kestrel
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Posts posted by Kestrel
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This spring I performed a complete stock rebuild on my '51 Super's brakes including new front and rear axle seals, EXACTLY like Old Tank suggested above. Instead of rebuilding my master cylinder, I installed a repro one from CARs inc. in NJ.
She stops great. I see no need to "upgrade" anything. I just keep an eye on all components and drive defensively, like riding a motorcycle.
After reading Old Tank's post I do intend to drill and install a fitting this winter to monitor any tranny fluid leaking though. That sounds like a clever idea.
Good luck.
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Thanks John. I had one of those on my Chevy but it fell apart after a few years. Maybe it was a cheap knockoff. I'm no electrician but I've read whatever is used, it be rated so as not to add any undue resistance in the starting circuit. Cranking amps on 6v systems are higher and need the best ground possible.
Your switch is certainly the easiest solution. I wonder if there's a way to ascertain its rating.
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The idea was to prevent an accidental electrical fire during storage for either short or long term. The wiring is mostly original and there are some circuits that are hot all the time. Until I can upgrade the harness, my thinking was a switch was easier than keeping a wrench nearby to constantly disconnect the terminal. Also, while working on the car, I'd be inclined to use it more.
So far, I've been using 61polara's method described above.
I don't worry about theft protection. The pros would probably bring their own unmarked trailer.
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I've put off installing a kill switch but after reading other posts, I decided to go for it before something bad happens. Anyone out there have any suggested locations ? I'm thinking of making up a bracket for the switch that would bolt up under the battery tray, then make an in-line connection into the positive side cable where the red arrows show.
I found a decent rated (100A continuous/ 1000A intermittent) switch I used on my 6v '32 Chevy. Thanks !
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Looks like the driver is bundled up in a raccoon coat. Must have been a cool day.
Thanks for sharing !
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Thanks, Andrew. I poked around online looking at photos of this model and it sure looks like it. This is confusing business unless you're a Packard fan. Someday maybe I'll be a
Packard owner.
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I believe this is a 1930 Packard but uncertain of what model, possibly a 733 Standard 8 but would love to know for certain.
I know my father was very proud of this car but passed before I could ascertain any details. He bought it used around 1935 in Westchester Co, NY, and enjoyed if for many years. Unfortunately I didn't arrive in time to insist it stay in the family. 😢
Thanks, guys!
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I know these are harder to find than hen's teeth but thought I'd try anyway. Looking primarily for the long piece that contains the script "Buick Eight". Also looking for the shorter end pieces. I'd be interested in any of these items regardless of chrome condition. Random pits okay but no dents please. Thanks guys ~
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Pretty clever. Thanks for the idea !
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Thanks Pete. I could see how under certain conditions with hot temps , it might hinder much needed air flow to the radiator.
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That was my original thought as well. The blue plate has somewhat similar tones as the body paint at least. So the wife says ... 😃
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Since I wanted to be legal, I had to mount a front plate but since the car came with no bracket I went ahead and made this up from some flat stock steel. Anyone know if this close to the original set-up ?
I read an old service bulletin that recommended relocating the plate off to the driver's side so as not to obstruct air flow to the radiator. My arrangement should be low enough to be okay. I certainly didn't want to drill 2 new holes on the driver's side bumper. Thanks guys.
The reflection on the bumper shows the attachment bracket. Nothing touches the chrome !
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Whoa ! Anti-squeak ?? Wait a minute. I thought all wooden bodied cars are supposed to squeak. You want that Olds to sound original, don't you ?
My '32 Chevy groans and squeals like a pig going down the road. Leave that fancy hockey stick tape on the shelf. Let the car sing to you. 🤪
Seriously, superb job !
Charlie
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If it's anything like my '51's, loosen the set screw on the inside knob and remove it. There should be a brass lock nut having 2 recessed notches on the exposed wiper shaft. Possibly that shaft needs to be tightened.
I had to make a "special" tool out of a bottle jack handle that would slide over the shaft and fit into those notches to tighten it down. I removed that nut with a couple of screwdrivers but nearly ripped the headliner in the process. That's why I made the tool. I just ground off enough metal to get a grip on the nut. I snugged my new antenna up nice and tight.
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Update on my "lost" speedometer. Miraculously I just received it back Priority Mail from Alan. It looks beautiful, not yet installed but I'm sure it will work fine, just needed lubrication.
It was a frustrating 2 months not being able to contact Alan and he still didn't cash my check. He hinted at a health issue but that's all I know.
Sometimes we just have to trust and accept some of us have issues , not an easy thing in this scamming, insane computer driven world.
Alan Kriss came through. Sadly there's fewer capable repair guys out there every year. I wish him well. From what I've learned, there was none better.
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That is his address in PA. Except for a personal emergency or medical condition, I can't understand why a professionally repaired instrument by a reputable person won't be returned or even able to contact. Don't know if I should be looking for another speedometer or cancel my check.
It's unfortunate since I heard there was no one better. His fine reputation was well established in the antique car community.
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Anyone know the exact original location of these 3 decals on the 263 cu in engine ? I can't find an image anywhere. I affixed the Buick Fireball decal to the drivers side valve cover. I believe this is correct due to the cross over air filter. Thanks !
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That's what is was. Plain old stuck. Got it out and modified an old bottle jack handle with a bench grinder to replicate that official special GM wrench. Worked great. Bob's Automobilia did have one for $17.00 if all else failed.
Thanks guys.
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Does anyone know what happened to Alan Kriss, longtime reputable repair man for clocks, radios, speedometers, etc ? I sent him my '51 Buick speedometer for a repair in April, he fixed it, I sent him a check weeks ago, he didn't cash it and I can't get a return call. He said he'd ship it weeks ago, but that was the last I heard from him. All I have is his phone number 570-376-3952 (and address), no email.
I'm normally very patient but I'm getting worried. Anyone know if this is normal for Alan ? Thanks all !!
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Great. I had no idea anyone would make such a tool. I did manage to remove that nut with a pair of screwdrivers but the assembly still won't budge. Maybe I need to give the shaft a hit with a hammer to dislodge it from the roof.
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I'm having trouble removing my roof antenna. I'm reading the manual and have the brass lock nut and toothed washer out from the inside but can't see how or where a wrench would go to remove the control assembly. They mention a special wrench J-1340 but I can't see any nut, just a round washer looking thing. Any help appreciated.
Thanks guys !
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I simply pressed the carpet against the seat belt attachment point and carefully cut a 2+" slit with a utility knife. I then passed the belt end through the slit and bolted it down. It's close enough. The carpet raises up a little when the belt is used bit not a big deal. I suppose the slit could be hemmed but I don't have that kind of patience. Upholstery work is not for the faint of heart and mistakes can be expensive to fix. 😖
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Another choice not too far away from you, Mike's Carburetor http://www.carburetor-parts.com . Great customers service and fast shipping. Cool tee shirts too for only $8.00 😎
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Thanks Tank. I like the slit idea.
Packard owner.
1951 Interior Options.
in Buick - Post War
Posted
I'm also restoring a '51 Super Riv. Model 52. I bought a front and rear carpet set from Newark Auto. It's a decent quality, easy to install, not too much money. I can provide a few close ups of the doors if you desire. Have fun !