Texacola
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Posts posted by Texacola
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Frank, Being pretty new to DB I had to go out to the garage and check.It would appear that the brake ,clevis and clutch pedal should all rotate on the common shaft.I steped on the brake and noticed a small amount of shaft movement (which also sightly moves the clutch pedal and vice/versa).My guess is the shaft should not move. You will notice that each unit on the shaft has a small hole (for lubrication??). Drop or two of oil in each would make each rotate free with no affect on the other.The upper shaft (clutch) should move.Hope that helps. Bill
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Hi, my '27 (9/11/26 build date) 3/4 ton truck has the same set up. It appears you are missing the cotter pin which goes thru the shaft to the right (in your pic) of the two washers which are against the clevis. Once you push the clevis(lock up the dogs) you will see the hole.Bill
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When I purchased my '27 3/4 ton truck it came with the original Stewart carb and an electric fuel pump.While it is a "C" motor not a fast four (not sure carb would be the same as yours) it works fine with an electric fuel pump with the use of a regulator to control the pressure. While it runs great as is I plan to convert back to the vac. tank for originality.
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I just purchased a DB wood wheel (two key) to fit my '27. It is missing a piece (one of the finger jointed segments) from the rear side. My question is...does anyone know what species of wood DB used? Pretty simple fix but would like wood to match.Thanks,Bill
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NO.
Is "No" kind of the short answer? I agree that we probably don't drive these cars enough to incur the valve (seat) damage caused by the lack of lead in today's fuels so unless you have rebuilt the engine with hardened valve seats its not a bad idea to use an additive. Am I wrong?
The engine rebuilder who did my '28 model A (his only business) uses hardened seat on all his rebuilds...but then again he drives his car all over the northeast.
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Unless you are using a ZDDP additive... stick with the Rotella as it contains something like 1200ppm ZDDP.Other modern oils today do not contain sufficient ZDDP levels for our flat tappet engines.
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I must be missing something...I'm new to DB having purchased my first in August,a '27 3/4 ton p/u. Is it normal for DB's or any vehicle for that matter to have any amount of water in the crankcase?
It seems to me that would be the quickest way to wipe out your bottom end with the bearings being the first to go.
So unless I'm wrong, if there is water down there I wouldn't trust stop leak to solve a problem that has the potential to destroy the engine .Worst case the block could be cracked but hopefully pulling the head would reveal a bad head gasket...maybe its me but I'd check those thing out before running the engine again.Bill
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Glad you found a lens...as you never bid on the one on Ebay..I bought it for a spare..couldn't pass it up at $5.99
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A #14933 lens just went up on Ebay a couple of hours ago....no bids yet..$5.99 starting bid.
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I checked # on my '27 3/4 ton pickup....same # 14933, 8 1/4" . Appears several models used same headlight
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The visible portion of my '27 lens (inside dia. of rim) measures 7 1/2 inches.Too cold to go out and remove rim to measure entire dia. of lens. Have you checked ebay? See them there quite often.
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Vern, Where would a '27 fall? Smaller '28 size or larger '26 and back?
Thanks,Bill
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The "A" was added after the 1millionth vehicle (Dec.1924) .your vehicle was built around Jan. 13/14 1927.
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Happy Holidays to All from frozen Connecticut....may Santa fill all your stockings with DB parts!
Bill
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When did DB switch from Alemite to Zerk grease fittings? My '27 (Sept 26 build) has the incorrect modern fittings. The DB 1914-27 Mechanics Instruction Manual(copywrite April 1927) only refers to their Zerk lub.system with no mention of the earlier Alemite fittings. I've seen a # of early '20's with Alemite but was wondering which would be correct for a '27?
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Would '27 be different?
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Dave,
Yes...C 842 314. Sorry,forgot to include the C. It also carries a Budd body # 20404 on the firewall plate. Haven't found any references on the dating of Budd #'s.
thanks,Bill
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Tony, I removed the rings on a set about a month ago.1st most platers will tell you their chemicals will not remove the internal rust and most likely some chem. will be traped and continue to leach out over time damaging the finish..so remove them.I used a tiny screw driver to gently bend the ring inward inserting slim pieces of spring steel as I worked all the way around,finally grabing the ring with a needle nose,pulling it out.This had no affect on the shape of the bezel.Once out ,I hammered the ring back to its original shape.I also applied a liberal amount of WD40 where I could move the ring around inside the bezel.
My bezels were perfect and plating was OK but without removing the ring you would always see the dark(rusty) rings thru the lens.
Bill
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Hi corey,I purchased a '27 3/4 ton express truck in August. Car # is A770913 ,engine # 842-314 so its in line with yours although there appears to be a 2284 diff between car &engine #'s.Not sure what that means..where did those engines go?
Meyers Early Dodge carries the 1914-1927 Mechanics' Instruction Manual...it has a ton of useful info.
Bill
Can You tell me what Dodge Brothers this car is?
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
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Dash appears to be Commercial Car (truck) as evidenced by the rectangular (rust) spot on right side,over which there was a warning plaque (overspeeding-25mph & over weight details).I'm pretty new to DB but I believe these plaques were only on trucks.I have a '27 3/4 ton (with plaque).