Texacola
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Posts posted by Texacola
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Juan, also having a '28 Model A I know what your talking about. The Ford catalogs have two types...Hood Prop Kit or Hood prop support spring set. Both use the two hood rods (on fords) to connect each type. Problem with DB is there is only one hood rod (rod from firewall to rad.). I bought the hood prop kit and will attempt to get it to work. Basically attach to hood rod and....there are two unused holes in my firewall that have no apparent purpose which if I insert and double nut 3" bolts (making rods) that would provide add'l attachment points.If I back up the cab side of the firewall nuts with plates or large washers it may provide enough support for the weight of the hood...not sure...we'll see. The other diff with DB hoods is that I think the two sides might hit each other before both sides are full up...Ford does not have that problem. DB put plated rivets on each side of the hood to protect paint when laid over on each other...guess never designed to be propped up? Bill
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Juan,was it difficult to take apart...springs and things flying out and stuff? When apart does the key tumbler and switch handle come out easily? I ask as mine works fine but I would like to have the handle replated but not at the expense of screwing up the working switch.
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Juan, The pic of the VIN plate you provided appeared to me to start with A-795xxx .Maybe I read it wrong (pic was blurry).Do you have a copy of the Dodge Brothers Club News Aug/Sept 2010? In it you will find the serial #'s and corresponding build dates.The # I read was for a vehicle built about 10/10/1926. As you said yours may have been surplus .It was typical back then for some states to reg. vehicles for the year when 1st titled not necessarily the year built..that could explain it. Also your engine appeared to be a "C" motor (at least the exhaust mani with air cleaner). That engine would not be late 1927 as the fast four was out by then.
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The American Pickers would call it the Honey Hole!
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Oh...have you ever found the serial # on the frame? Matches the toe plate? Could be just the cab was swapped?
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Juan,please look at my last post.Your VIN# says it was built October 1926 not 1927. The plaque you are showing is the VIN data plate which should be attached to the toe board as you have shown.I was referring to an additional plate that was attached to the dash to the far right of the speedo which identified it as a 3/4 ton truck and gave weight info and a caution about overloading and overspeeding.
My guess now (and only my guess) is your truck is a 1928 body that someone,sometime swapped out a late 1926 engine and maybe its VIN tag.To me that would explain why the doors and cab looks like a '27 GB or maybe a '28 DB.
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Juan....guess you missed Jason's joke? Northeast Electric has bee gone for like a million years. What I have is a copy of their price book printed in Sept. 1926. I bought it on ebay awhile back...has pictures of the parts,part #'s,6v or 12v and forthe most part what years each applies to.If you use ebay I'll see if I can find the sellers Id in case you want to buy one. I try to pick up everything I can (manuals etc.) which apply to my vehicles.
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Juan, Ok, first ...your truck is a 1927,based on your DB serial # (looks like A-795XXX) was built around 10/10/26.Mine is A-770913,built around 9/11/26. I have seen later #'s that were titled as '26 models. Mine was 1st registered in Pa. on 6/15/27 as a '27 model. Either way both our VIN's fall in the "1927 series". You also have the C motor .
Mine I believe started its life as a screenside which most likely is what yours is.When I bouhgt it at auction it was listed as an "Express" and is currently a p/u.Do you have a plaque on the right side of the dash? It would identify it as a 3/4 ton and have weight & load info as well as a caution not to overspeed 25 mph. If you don't have the plaque are there 4 rivet holes there?
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Juan... my "North East parts price book" dated 9/26 shows your switch.The 6v model is part #18456 with lighting positions:OFF DIM ON. DB special models used # 18457---PARK OFF DIM ON. They are said to be the same as 12v units except they are "Resistance Units".
Interesting......now I have to check mine which is a 6v system but my switch is neither of the above but rather what looks like an '18-'25 unit which is listed as 12v.Maybe resistance has been added?
Anyway if you have an original key it should say CLUM on it with a #,and if its original to your truck it would have DB and a #....i.e. mine is DB90
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Jason..if I'm not mistaken Juan has a "C" motor (slow four) like mine.I agree...never heard of a 1/4 ton.Mine is a 3/4 ton (commercial car) which sits on a car chassis. What I don't know yet is if the 3/4 ton has the same rear springs as the car used (i.e. # of leafs/thickness?). Also the rear and trans may be larger??
Juan... do you have a DB serial#? I guess that would settle any question if its a DB or GB
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Juan...couldn't blow up the image. Do you have a key? Is it clum? Is so it is a clum ignition/lighting switch same as mine.
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If your going to have them plated....let the plater do it....didn't add that much to the cost and they know what they are doing. I used Qual Krom (Robert Ore)in Erie,Pa. Your tail light bezel cracks are nothing like those that were in my headlight bezels (at least 8 in each).And like I said I can't even find the repairs.
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Mike ,soldering is esentially sticking the parts together...you wouldn't solder it if you were going to replate. Brazing is like welding where you are melting the parts together (with additional material..brazing rod).
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Mike, the best permenent repair is to have them brazed.Of course they would need replating. I had my headlight bezels done (they are really prone to cracks)and you can't even tell where they were repaired....from either side.Bill
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Jason, You and all the DB's are welcome anytime. Trumbull is one town north (bordering) Bridgeport. Directly off Rt 15. Bill
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Rayjay..Congrats! I see you live in Prospect,I'm down the road in Trumbull.Hope to see you and the vehicle at some local shows this year.I wanted to buy the car but my wife said we have enough (never enough).Went to the Prospect show in Sept. for the first time (nice show).My wife took the Mayors trophy with her pink '57 T-bird. Again...can't wait to see it and show her what we passed up! Bill
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1930...I'm in Trumbull (whole life). EB is still there...one of my Corvette buddies still works there.
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Juan..... is your truck (nice truck by the way) a '27 GB. Looks like GB not DB doors? My '27 series.9/26 DB doors have one raised body feature (whatever you call it,usually a belt line on a car I guess) but yours has two,one high like a DB and a second lower one like GB's have. You have a "C" motor like mine so I assume we're in the same series. Did they change the door profile on later '27 DB's. Bill
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Stakeside....your frame is alot heavier than my '27 3/4 ton "commercial car".My frame is the same as used on cars,even the rear crossmember is curved sheet metal formed to fit the gas tank on cars...my tank is under the seat. I agree with 1930 yours looks like maybe 1 ton? Bill
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Jason, My understanding (I'm no expert) is that the pre-Chrysler commercial car serial #'s were in sequence (no diff.) with cars as were the engine #'s. Hopefully someone can confirm. Bill
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Jason....when you mentioned "prior to 9-30-30 were you referring to trucks built after the DB ownership change or to 1 ton and above. I ask as my 9/26 (27 series) 3/4 ton "commercial car" carries a serial# in sequence with the cars.i.e. begins with A. Bill
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Blackhorse is only about 5 miles from my home. I would have gone to see it if I were going to keep bidding (last auction). My wife interviened and said something had to go before I bought any more vehicles
:(so I backed off. I'm going to a super bowl party at the home of a gentlemen (Blackhorse client) who may have been the former owner. If so ,I'll get the story and keep you posted. Bill -
Joe... I too checked their online site and it is listed (asking?) for 20k. I agree with Bill Miller that something went wrong because it did sell for 15,080.There were 35 bidders .I can't remember the reserve but it was less than the 8,300 bid I threw in (I was the leading bidder for awhile).
So either the winning bidder didn't/couldn't complete the transaction or the car is not as advertised? Bill
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Juan, looks to be in great shape and you got the heat stove and air intake pipe...I think it was a good deal,heck I would have bought it for a spare and I don't need one. The mani to exhaust pipe connection appears to have been modified (more modern flange bolt together) has been welded??to the nut. Originally there should only be the nut which slips up the exhaust pipe and then threaded onto the manifold. The nut has knotches to unscrew it....a real buster...mine was on for 10 years,211 miles driven,took hours to remove.I think your mod. is a good idea. Bill
:(so I backed off. I'm going to a super bowl party at the home of a gentlemen (Blackhorse client) who may have been the former owner. If so ,I'll get the story and keep you posted. Bill
ID Plate and what else on toe board?
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
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Mike, Is your vehicle an original CT car? Does the reg. still carry the original VIN#?. As you may know Ct DMV very often issued their own # (plate was affixed)much the size of the small outline you have shown. This was done where they could not find the VIN on the frame (DB engine #'s don't match anyway which probably gave them pause). Also they wanted to see the # in two places...so who knows..just a thought.Bill