ROD W
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Posts posted by ROD W
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Hentzee
You would be able to adapt most round speedo,s. Buick used the same round speedo,s for a number of years and between models. The standard speedo slides through the front of the dash,where as the master is attached from the back, making it possible to mount different speedo,s. The master face is a slightly different shape ( more oval) Photo 1. The main difference is the trip gauge on the standard comes through the front (photo 7), and master at the bottom (last photo). My 1920 sedan has a stewart gauge,(photo 6) These can be used but you probably won,t be able to use the trip metre. Standard and master cases (photo 2) same size body diameter 87mm (3 3/8") but master has oval front for oval face, but the oval face can go on the round body (photo 3) .Photo 4 & 5 show with eschetuen on and in dash. Look around for a good standard speedo and you can adapt it for your dash. Hope this makes sense.
Rod
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hidden hunter
Thanks for those articles, very interesting. At the end of the second article it mentions Eyes & Crowle Ltd. That was the dealer that sold my 25.
In Adelaide, South Australia
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jb buick, put me onto the Buick Heritage Alliance, Go to www.buickheritagealliance.org They have a number of reproduction books for1924. They don,t have the Buick Shop Manual but have a Reference Book, which is probably similar
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Hentzee, Hope this can be read
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They can become very warped and twisted. They have a small key/notch in the back, which may prevent it turning to start with in the standards.(see photo 1) This isn,t a problem for the master because there is the extra plate on the back.(photo 2) this one has been glue,d up at some stage. As Leif said, give the gauge a good sand at the back and then try tapping with a flat piece of timber. Once it passes that notch try turning back and forward.If you don,t want to risk breaking it, you can mount toggle switches behind the dash, Look for them at swap meets, thats where I collect mine. I even buy these old brocken one,s. Some people aren,t too bright.
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I couldn,t get it very clear
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Printed diagram, then took photo, reducing it from 3.4mb to 69kb
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Terry, It is at the bottom of the small commutator. You can see the wire comming off and the two screws that hold the brush. The bottom brushes attached to the mounting plate have been removed in this photo so you can only see the two top brushes and the third brush.( D in the diagram). I have seen pictures of your K 46 on the internet, very nice. I would love to have a coupe. There was one in New York for sale a few years back, I was very tempted to buy, but it was partly dissassembled , Too difficult for shipping.
I was unable to attach the diagram, Too large.
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Hentzee,
Remove the plate at the back of the S/G. Get somebody to stomp on the starter pedal with battery disconnected and you will see if the starter brushes engage and the generator brushes disengage. You can remove the large battery terminal bolt to more easily see the brushes operating. The arm in photo,s 1 & 2 connects the two brushes, so you can,t have both brushes engaged at the same time unless that arm is bent/broken. You can also see the small black wheel that runs on the starter shaft. The starter brushes run on the large commutator and the generator brushes run on the small commutator. It is only the two top brushes that engage and disengage. The bottom brushes and third brush are always engaged. Photo 3 shows bottom brushes removed. Photo 4 shows starter brush disengaged ( when starter pedal not depressed) Thats the steering column in the way RHD car. Photo 5 is with starter engaged (starter pedal depressed) and generator brush disengaged. These starter brushes are very worn down, need new brushes . the 3rd brush can also be seen in photo 5. which can be adjusted to regulate charging rate, by hex screw on side. Hope this helps. If the brushes are too long, they will not disengage.
Rod
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bigvic, A 1928 Master is different to a 1920. Somebody with a 28 Parts Book might be able to help
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garnetkid, mine is frosted with a slight dome, but I don,t know what holds the glass in place.
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Paul,
Google search Buick Heritage Alliance or www.buickheritagealliance.org Click on the search window. and type in 1923 parts book. There,s one for the four and six and one for the six only. Thanks JB for passing on that information.
Rod
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Texas Old Car Guy, Very tempted. Looking for a parts book for my 1920. I know the body panels are different between 20 and 21, but all the mechanicals are the same. It might be years before I can find a 20 part book. email me at rodwise32@yahoo.com.au regarding how I can pay for the book.
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Here,s what they look like.
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And on RHD cars they went on the left. I think I,ve seen them on Ebay
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Thanks Larry, Leif. Looks like 5/32" was the original thickness.
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Took the brake bands down the Brake shop yesterday to get them re-lined. The fellow said "how thick" 1/4" looks too thick and 3/16"looks too thin.
Any suggestions
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Very nice Brian, Are you going to paint them black or leave them polished metal.
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If you have wooden felloe,s ( the part of the wheel that goes around the spokes ) you would need bolts with larger heads. The bolts on my wheels are 3 1/2" long, where as the one,s on E bay are 3 3/16" Remove one of your bolts and measure.
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Brian, Brass does sound like a good way to go. I had an MG once with brass manifold bolts, never any problems removing them, the steel one,s a different story.
Sounds like you had a great time on that Caribbean cruise. My wife has been trying to talk me into going on a Great Barrier Reef cruise over here, but I want to finish the body on the 25-55. Can,t do everything.
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Hentzee
The 24 and 25 master are pretty much the same, heat riser and inlet manifold different. Poto 2 - 25 master. Photo 3 - 24 master.
The operation of the stearing box gears between standard 25 and master 25, are the same, but parts not interchangeable. 1924 didn,t have a standard but the last of the four cylinder cars. Again I think the operation of the spark and carb gears were the same. Leif from Sweden might come in and advise us on this.
Rod
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Larry , when I,m working on the car, this is what I see. (Isn,t it what we all aspire to in our restorations)They say that the 20,s are the least popular years. But the tourers of the 20,s look pretty special to me.
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Thanks for that picture Larry. Ill add that one to my photo album. How do you post such a large picture onto the forum.
hidden hunter, I think Vic Ash was the main timber used by Holden. But I think Ash was the main timber used in the U.S also. But saying that, they are very different timbers. Vic Ash is not an Ash and Tassie Oak is not an Oak. They are both Eucalyptus. hardwood gum trees
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hidden hunter
The car came from Adelaide. So I would say it was a Holden built body. The person I bought it from had it sitting in he's garage for 30 years, But unfortunately I have no history before that.
Period Reviews
in Buick - Pre War
Posted · Edited by ROD W (see edit history)
Dalesman
The fours all had painted radiator surround, the sixes were nickel plated. The 24 4 cylinder tourer and roadster were only available in black in the US. The Master 24-44 roadster was in cobalt blue, Holden may have painted the four,s in the same colour as the six but I think they usually followed the same colours as used in the US.