Jump to content

George Buick Riviera

Members
  • Posts

    360
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by George Buick Riviera

  1. The system works this way, that the "computer" delays the ignition to reduce the engine's power, in case of the rear wheels are loosing the traction comparing to the front wheels.  I've heard that this was also the reason for cancelation of the option in 73, due to new emission standards.

    There is a switch at the dash, and in case of malfunction of the system you could switch it off (switching off means bypassing the "computer").

    The picture below is not very sharp, but you can see the switch there, just above the clock.

     

    image.thumb.png.b2a8393d2d433aa937025c86a33c7392.png

    • Like 2
  2. Guys,

    after heating up (not even that much), the reluctor wheel went off super-easy: using just the screwdriver it was possible to "twist it out" from the hub, no prying was necessary.

    Both hubs have the same OD, however the hub for non MaxTrac disc is rounded on the bottom, while for MaxTrac disc the hub is more perpendicular at the bottom - I think to have the support base for the reluctor wheel, after it is pressed in.

     

    image.png

    image.png

    image.png

    • Like 1
  3. Thank you guys for all your efforts. The second disc in my car (passenger side) is standard indeed. Here is one more picture of MaxTrac disc - I have no more pictures right now with me, and I am away from home for some time. But I will let you know how it turns out.

     

    The first owner of the car was a Buick dealer (his private car), so he ordered almost every option for himself. Looks like only sunroof is missing (GS, MaxTrac, automatic AC, external thermometer in the mirror, compass, bucket seats, cornering lights, triple front positioning lights, rear glass blower, etc, etc, - many many things are there plus some dealer options like alarm). Then he sold the car to his employee who was not using the car too much (car was stored for many many years). I am 3rd owner and I think all that is the reason, why this disc is still there.

    disc II.jpg

    • Like 1
  4. Welcome to the Riv world.

    Regarding your changing of the fluids and filters:

    For filters I recommend WIX products: http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/Applications.aspx?Section=1.

    I have no problems to get them in Poland, so I believe the same will be in UK.

    For oil I am using MillersOils (UK product by the way ....) - they have CLASSIC section for oil. I am using http://www.millersoils.co.uk/products/0/678

    Have fun 🙂

    • Like 1
  5. 21 hours ago, Turbinator said:

    Thank you for your input. Your experience will help me finish up the places I missed on my under carriage. So far the POR 15 is holding very well. I m under the car more times than I want to tell,

    so I see the POR 15. Using smaller amounts on the brush, huh, you cannot use too little. I’ll give it a try 😊

     

    Please let us know your result.

  6. 9 hours ago, DualQuadDave said:

    those should be standard size. Oversize will be marked .010 or similar.  Mic the journals, regardless. 455's are clearance specific, get it right the first time. Good luck! 

    I was thinking so - yes I will mic the shaft. Thank you Dave. Looks like the whole engine is still from the factory - i haven't seen the front crankshaft seal rope type for a while !

  7. Hi,

    can you please help to ID the 455 crankshaft main bearing size. Are those nominal size ? Or ? I was googling for the visible numbers, but no luck for me .... The numbers are stamped on the same single bearing. Thanks for any info.

    P1110068.thumb.png.062fab96975ac3e6bc40ed8a1fc20cde.pngP1110067.thumb.png.abccc6fdbe204120cd395177edfcdf96.png

  8. 17 hours ago, RivNut said:

    I have a complete 1965 ST400. Code BJ.  It's for a 401 V8 with the 3.07 rear end.  Should be the same transmission as a 66.  It's complete with converter. 

     

    I'd sell it as a core for $250.  When I bought it 20 some years ago, it came from a running car in which the block had cracked.  It's been sitting in three different garage floors since I bought it.  I've not touched it other than to move it.

     

    I have no idea about shipping. Ill let you figure out the weight and shipping costs from ZIP code 66218 (Shawnee, KS; a suburb of Kansas City, MO) if you're interested.  Shawnee is on I-35 and I-70, on the route from IL to OK.  Should anyone be headed to OKC and want to pick it up.

     

    Ed

     

     

     

    Thanks Ed,

    I will send you PM

     

  9. My experience with POR15:

     

    a) no grease, humidity on the surface is a key - but this is general rule for all coats 😉. Don't use compressed air to "dry" the surface, unless you have the humidity and oil trapping system in your installation. Accordingly to POR15 manual (yes - read it first !), the surface must be completely dry, "or it will ruin your work" (especially when it is not flat surface). Best is to use the heat gun if possible (or hair dryer, or leave it for some time directly at the sunshine) - but don't coat it while still hot, of course  !

     

    b) I get the best results when using really really small amount of the paint on the brush - so small that it was looking not possible to paint with it, but then: I was not dragging the brush there and back, but I was making many "touches" - one by one (not sure how to name it in english, but I think you got the point). First it was looking of course not good, but just leave it for some time, and POR15 starts to spread ....

     

    c) the more paint you have on the brush, the worse result is - that is my experience

     

    c) my result below (you can see my fingerprint close to the label, on the left)

     

    POR.thumb.png.a763ed98cc5cf62888b9a89746d08abd.png

     

    • Like 1
×
×
  • Create New...