c49er
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Posts posted by c49er
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A pic of the 1942 Seattle S10 business coupe and of the 1942 S10 convertible at the National DeSoto meet several years ago. Owner on left of both cars. He sold the coupe- went to Norway as I recall and sold again?
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The C46 engine # is a 1949 Chrysler 8 cylinder#. C39 is correct for 1946-8 Chrysler 8 cylinder cars including the T&C converts. Your car is a 1948 T&C as stated above.
The body plate info..
Model 3933 =C39N Town and Country Convertible
Paint 5 =Polo Green
Trim 44 = Green Leather and Taupe bedford cord
TO 1 = Black top
Body# 8254 is kinda in the middle of 1948 T&C production build
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I have replaced many of these Detroit chrysler 6 and 8 cylinder U-Joints up through 1952. I use a Snap on U-Joint press tool/ a press and the old large rercieving socket and a proper sized drift and 2lb hammer to drive out the U-Joint/ caps. They are tight but will come out fine if you know how and have a good mechanics feel to doing these joints. 2 round caps and 2 winged caps. Nothing special about them. Small weak vises and or C clamps won't work.
Use a impact wrench to break loose the pinion nut. The seal can be carefully worked out of the case with a scew driver/small chisel from the outside diameter to force it out-kinda tough job. Don't damage the case bore. I use miller/Snap On tools to do these pinion seal jobs . Prick punch the pinion nut to the pinion shaft before removal so you can tighten the nut right back to where it was plus a very slight turn more. I use a special tool to lock the pinion flange so I can tighten the nut.
I do realize you don't have these tools-but the work can be done carefully and properly with out them- being careful.
Bob
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I prefer carter ball and ball Chrysler and DeSoto's over the Hemi V8 cars. Glad the FI DeSoto sold at one of the "Big Boy" auctions. Must have gone to a good home.
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Close enough for me. Quite rare too!
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DeSoto had fuel injection!
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Chrysler cars -up through 1952 can be tested for low mileage by how well the drivers door "clicks" shut. Slight push and the door should quietly and with a nice smooth clack just close completely and properly. Lift the doors and check for hinge pin wear too. Little or no up and down movement should be felt. Passenger doors wear 1/2 as much as the drivers door.
High mileage and or a improperly adjusted door will require a good strong forceful push to close. The striker plate will be well worn as well as the latch rotor. At 24,000 miles your doors should close easily and all with the same effort.
Bob
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Be careful with the front ash tray. They 1951-2 Chryslers- are only held together with 2 rivits and are cheap diecast metal. Have seen many broken over the years. Yoy need to lube the slides for easy operation too!
Bob
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Jim, up in Lynnwood had 4 Chryslers- a Royal business coupe, a NewYorker Club coupe and a NewYorker sedan- All of them taken apart.
He also had a Saratoga 3 passenger coupe he sold overseas- maybe Norway or Sweden. I think the engine out of the NY sedan was sold as a rebuilt engine separate from the car as I recall.
Jim showed me the engine rebuilders reciept-over $2000.00. Also posted that slip on this site? long ago to prove the engine was rebuilt. I bought quite a few parts off the sedan parts car.
I used to work a bit on the NY club coupe back in the late 70's. A guy named Bob Warr, a retired Seattle cop owned it. The block had a crack from freezing- he sealed it up and still drove it!!
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He just said----"you will not read of my car again." Maybe it was the club coupe sold out of Lynnwood Wa.
Well he is gone for good now- real bummer:(
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Hey Jazzer--- How about selling that 50 NY hardtop shown in the picture- I'll double the $500.00 for the C51!
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The Square 4 terminal relay box end 6 and 8 solenoids are tough to find and expensive new. I think Mitchell Motor parts has one!. They are some what prone to trouble after years of use. You might be in need of the more common round plain solenoid.
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The reservoir lid held down with a 7/16" hex bolt-- is right below the booster bellows. Close/ tight fit. Fill it with a squirt bottle with brake fluid. Very poor access!
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1335185 is chrysler 6 cylinder. The same seller has a 1241312 8 cylinder NY fender too. It is a RT Front.
Bob
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I have never seen a 218/230 Car or truck crankshaft that has been threaded from the factory. The 218 has a non threaded crank 4 hole flange. The 230 is an 8 bolt crank flange. Fluid couplings have 8 studs that fit to the crank. The 218's use 4 special bolts installed from the main cap side that go rear ward into the flywheel. To remove them- the pan and main cap need to come off. I have seen regular bolts and nuts used to attach the flywheels in the light duty dodge trucks.
If you can find a fluid drive 4 speed as I recall your bell housing will accept it. You might have to drill 1 or 2 mounting threaded holes. I think the bosses are already there too. I have a 4 speed fluid drive trans but will not ship-sorry!
Bob
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There is a square filler plug in the passenger side of the differential case-fill till it runs out.
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Hmmm...
Really old thread.
Anyway the straight 8 chrysler D-Tube can be removed from the back of the block as there is a 1-5/8" soft plug at the rear of the tube. Wont work with the engine in the car though! I made a precision fitting D-Tube removal tool for all 3 sizes of the MoPar flathead engines-23"/25" and straight 8's as I work on all of them.
Also it is a must to remove the soft plugs on the side of the block to see and and completely scrape out the coolant passages of sludge, then high pressure flush the passages with water till completely clean. It will make a huge nasty mess!
Correct thermostat, good distribution tube, timing correct and a good clean radiator- you should be good to go!
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I have mounted and de-mounted the these type of rims shown in the picture many times over the years. My rims are very rust free. Rust is a bad thing with multi piece truck/old car rims. They need to be carefully checked for cracks and severe rust pitting and build up in the gooves. I would never match/ interchange different brands of rims/side rings ect. I also chain them up with big chain 3/8-1/2" or put them under a loader bucket and use a extended lock on air hose chuck for safety. Gotta be careful and safe working on these multi piece wheels.
RH-5 wheels I would not do!
Bob
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This (Dodge 1951 3 ton rim is cracked too!) Not really-it's the way they are made. The lock ring is a one piece hoop and the wheel rim is split.
I think the Firestone RH5 3 piece rims on Fords and Chevy's were the real dangerous rims.
Bob
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Low and high range are syncroed-thats why it's easy into those ranges. Reverse is not. Clutch might not be disengaging 100%. To make a quick test....Put lever in low range, engine running -with clutch pushed in -quickly pull shifter into reverse-if no grinding, clutch is dragging-out of adjustment or pilot bushings are dragging on the input shaft.
Bob
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1949-50 will interchange.
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I always Arc- fit the shoes to each drum for full contact. As with the double anchor Lockheeds ( used on early MoPars) this is even more important. Don't even bother with the 1750 Ammco tool or the factory Miller tool till the shoes are arced!
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Here is a pic of the original Di-Noc on my 48 T&C. Rare stuff. Most people use the wood 1/64th" veneer as a replacement if they have damaged film., because the OE Di-Noc film is not available. All 3M replacement film is not the same as the OE film. Also the cars came with both a dark and light Di-Noc film.
Bob
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OK, here we go.
Something really horrible would have to happen for you to actually lose a gear in one of these transmissions. You'd have to have chunks of metal falling out of the gearbox drain plug for there to be anything wrong with the gearbox.
Check the oil level in the gear box. The filler plug is about four inches above the drain plug, not to be confused with a second plug much higher on the gearbox on the same side. Drain the transmmission, looking at the oil to make sure there's nothing horrible in it, and fill it back up with 30W non-detergent oil. Ignore the 10W spec.
To fill the transmission, buy a bottle of Sta-Lube gear oil and the pump made to fit the bottle. Dump the gear oil into another container, wash out the bottle with gasoline, and use the bottle and pump for whatever you want including filling these transmissions.
Second, slow your engine idle speed. If the engine is idling too fast, the transmmission will not shift when you let off the gas because the engine won't slow down enough for the transmission to synchronize.
If it's still not shifting, disconnent the transmission wiring. On the two small poles of the spark coil, you'll see the two small wires for the ignition system, but you'll see a second set of wires for the transmission. This is where the transmission's electrical components get their electricity. If there's a short in the transmission wiring, the solenoid valve will hang open, and the transmission will not be able to build up enough oil pressure to effect the shift. With the wiring disconnected, the transmission will upshft, but it will not downshift when you come to a stop. You'll have step on the clutch at a stop, and the transmission will downshift.
Try these first, and tell me what you find. If these don't do it, we'll dig into testing and cleaning your governor switch and solenoid valve. It's all easy stuff, and these transmissions are amazingly trouble-free with a few age-related bugs worked out. I'm about to take my 1950 DeSoto from California to Oregon, Washington, Idaho, and Wyoming next month with a transmission like yours.
JON
Wow, Finally someone gave direct on the spot M-6 fast track upshift advice- if it won't upshift after idle speed and fluid level checks, disconnet the wiring! Right on!!!
NEW GUY HERE- NEED ADVICE!
in Chrysler Products - General
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Any 1946-8 Chrysler convertible is a rare car. They drive nice-not the fastest easiest car to drive but once on the road driving is a dream. Chrome is pricey and hard to find as it's all mostly diecast except the rear fender spears.. These cars have lots of chrome too. Plastic parts on the dash are real hard to find too-especiallythe steering wheel and glove box door in certain colors. 2 to 3 grand for a top. Upper number for a high quality top job.
How much can you afford to spend and want to is the question!