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1910Hupp

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Posts posted by 1910Hupp

  1. There is a Model 20 engine on Ebay currently 

    I would love to  buy it but unfortunately  the 12000 miles of freight for this heavy item makes it unaffordable for me  

    However someone else  on here might be interested 

  2. Looks nice - Setting up the magneto is a pain -I'm always amazed  at how  a small  change  in the magneto drive  as   you  connect everything up  changes the timing so much . A tooth off makes a big difference.

    They always seem to move for me as  I  bring the  camshaft gear and magneto  drive together on the Hup  -One day I'll  make a jig to hold the drive fixed  as i connect -Karl 

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  3. This afternoon I set up a timing light and looked at the flywheel  position when fully advanced which is were I run it all the time -I'm getting about 28 to 30 degrees  of advance. It doesn't   kick back at this setting.

    I was taught at a young age how to crank a car by my father -However I see  videos all the time of people with their thumb over the crank handle   and  pushing the crank down as the  spin the engine  and shudder . As an MD I've seen  my fair share of wrist and thumb fractures  and they can cause long term problems -

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  4. Yes the segments  referred to are the brass segments .

    Hupp has a funny way of setting the fixed  timing -If you follow the  instructions in the  manual  you actually  find tdc and then  continue to  rotate the  flywheel  by about 5/8 of an inch   and then you set the magneto up to fire on Number 1 Effectively the ignition is retarded when set up . I have fiddled with variable ignition  and set it up as per the instructions but set the variable  timing at full retarded at that point .Interestingly it  runs  best and starts best  fully advanced  so  I just leave it there  

  5. Mines pinstriped black  and of course non  original color. Also has  buttoned  seats !  All incorrect  and how i brought it . I have thought about  changing it back to "oriiginal"  but  really  111 years later who ( other than us-and we're debating it  ) would really know or care . Just nice to see them out there  being used !  

  6. Simon I  spent several years before I found  a complete unit and I suspect the complete unit  is more common than the parts  which would have been discarded as useless and/or unidentified  over the 107 years since Breeze went out of business .  You should try Stan Howe in Montana who is the guru of  brass carb restorers -If anyone  is able to help you it will he him. I know he has restored several Breeze carbs including mine and Phils  who posts on here.  Sorry I have  mislaid his contact details but he should be easy to find via an internet  search -All the best -Karl 

  7. Phil -What did you do with  the patterns  for casting  the inlet manifold ? Now that you have sold your  car I would be really  keen to make sure  that we retain/purchase  the patterns for  others  (who like you and I are mad enough to use the original set up)  to use if required . As mentioned previously I have  patterns for the exhaust manifold   and get get casting done  relatively cheaply  here in New Zealand  (the  foundry I use  casts parts for Peter Jacksons  World War One replica fighter planes ) -Karl 

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  8. My starting procedure is essentially the same  . However I  never use the  priming cups unless it refuses to start. I normally flood the carb with  the tickler first until gas flows out the bowl  and I open the  carb by about 3/4 turn  until it runs   then close it up . I to have little trouble with the Breeze - Probably  because Stan Howe  rebuilt and adjusted both Phil and  my carbs .  Before  fitting  the correct Breeze  i was running a Holley NH on a butchered manifold

    Designed for the  Model T  the carb was  to big  for the little Hup  engine and I could never get a good idle  but  I probably  got  another  5 mph top speed and quicker pick up -But prefer to be original 

  9. I had a cam made for  mine . Wasn't expensive  including manufacture Grinding and hardening  at about NZ$1000 ie about US$ 600  depending  on exchange  rate ,

    Of course it would need shipping to  the States  from here which  would probably add another $60 to the cost -Karl 

  10. I once tried EP oil in the gearbox and severe slippage with this  the  car wouldn't drive up a  slight slope 

    I went to 30  weight gear oil  and it was fine  but now i just use 30 wt  engine oil  and have no problems 

    Karl 

  11. On 8/3/2019 at 3:20 PM, Tom400CFI said:

    I'm not sure why you're getting gasoline (vapor?) coming from the carb at WOT; it should be sucking it all in.  But IMO when you get good throttle sensitivity at low throttle angles and none at high, then that means the that the throttle bore is too big for the rest of the engine.  Since the manifold and ports seem large (larger than the throttle bore, and since the cam only opens the valves about a dinky .25" or so...lack of "cam" was my theory.   More timing might help, but I worry about stress on the crank. 

    Tom I think I've  worked out the issue . Last night I started the car up to move  it  to get to some parts . In the  dark I could see something like the 4th July going on the  front of the magneto . The spark  plug wires were shorting out  between each other . I suspect this sometimes was causing  partial  ignition in a cylinder at the wrong time ie with the inlet  valve still open and the resulting  pressure wave out the inlet manifold  was pushing gas out of the carb. Some Insulating  tape and there is a much smoother  engine and no gas  vapour out the bottom of the carb. Karl 

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  12. I agree its  probably lack of cam .  I do have a recast inlet  Manifold on it   with the  complicated  passages  inherent in  those  so hope that there is not an  internal obstruction there . I  guess i should take the manifold off and    check  the passages are ok  by probing  them  . I guess I would look pretty stupid if there was some core sand   still left in there -Karl 

  13. No Its not the correct one -but very close   You can see in my photos  that the  air valve  housing is different . I'd always  been told that the correct carb was a Breeze H3 but your carb is definitely different to  the Breeze Carb on mine and  other originals I have seen  . Who knows maybe  Hup started with  your carb and it morphed  into my model with a bigger (at  least looking) air valve  There  are no numbers on mine. I will try and get some photos for you of what  I and Stan Howe (the guru of brass carbs) believe is the correct carb   -Karl 

  14. On 7/30/2019 at 9:33 AM, trimacar said:

    Just a comment on vacuum tanks.

     

    They are really not admired, as a rule, because few take the time to rebuild them correctly.

     

    I won't take credit, my good friend Rob B. Got my '27 Dodge cabriolet back on the road.

     

    The vacuum tank can be dry, and I can turn the engine over six or eight times, wait a few seconds for Mr. Gravity to get fuel from vacuum tank reservoir to carb, and it starts right up.

     

    Go back in time, and your car dealer, selling you the newest Model on his showroom, says, Oh, by the way, if you don't drive your car for two days, you'll have to disassemble the top of your vacuum tank and add gas.  Seriously, didn't happen.

     

    The systems were designed to deliver gas, period.  Make the original work correctly, and you'll be as happy as the new buyer back when....

    I agree  David  100%  its  my pet peeve ! So many times I have been told that the original set up  on my vintage vehicles is no good and  needs to be upgraded . I've been  told  this for   just about  every  system you could think  of on a vintage car  Invariably the person  giving this information has a vehicle that has not been restored properly or is relying on  someones opinion  whose vehicle is also not  restored correctly .  A case in point  this afternoon I took my 34 Ford  to run some errands . Its winter here and today is wet and cold  . I was travelling   at the end of  a stream of modern traffic  at 30mph on a wet road . The distance  between cars  was about the same  . A car two in front of  me stopped  suddenly and we all  applied our  brakes vigorously at about the same time . The car in front  of me  hit  the stopped car I stopped well short of him  He had modern  Hydraulic ABS brakes  I have   completely stock standard mechanical rod brakes.. However my brakes  have been rebuilt correctly with NOS parts NOS linings  which are centred correctly.  The Drums   are perfectly round and well within tolerance for wear All the clevis are good with no slop  The cross shaft is correctly positioned .  The rods are the correct length. As well everything is set up correctly  and well lubricated . I would love a dollar for every time I have been told  that rod brakes are useless  and  you need hydraulics  -mine  aren't !

     

    I think we are conditioned to think that  we are different or perhaps superior  to our  ancestors . As you say  David when Mr and Mrs Citizen  forked out their hard earned depression  cash for  their new Ford in 1934  they expected it to stop  and stop well . If it  didn't they would be banging on the  dealers door  just as I would  if my  new Lexus didn't  do what it was supposed to . 

     

    I do lots of miles in my cars and shamefully admit  I brought into  the upgrade  myth  and  changed  (or accepted changes by previous owners ) from  original  in my early days of  vintage car ownership. However over time I have reversed all the changes I made  and with good  quality NOS  parts  my cars perform better and are  more reliable  than  with any of the "upgrades".

  15. On 7/29/2019 at 2:05 AM, Ben Perfitt said:

    “Never seen another with the Breeze Strainer”, and, “I think they are hard to find”...

    WOW.

    I had to go back to, let’s see, 1911 to even find reference to one. (Is the carb a Maximus?)

    No  the correct  Breeze  H3  for the car .

     

    • Thanks 1
  16. This is my  one 

    Had a windshield as per  my avatar  but given the limited running was more fun to go with the monocle  windshield Probably less drag as well !

    Never seen another with the Breeze Strainer-Karl

    HupmobileVCC.jpg

    IMG_1916.JPG

    IMG_1924.JPG

    IMG_1917.JPG

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    • Thanks 1
  17. Tom  Nice to know some one else has the same   problem . I have still fabricated a new  bell crank linkage which gives me   the full range of butterfly  movement without the previous  binding- although I have no expectation of  lightening performance .

    I think the valve lift is the issue. as I've noticed at full throttle there is a heck of a lot  of gas vapour pouring out the bottom of the carb.  My theory  is  all the vapour the carb is producing  can't get past the  inlet valves  and hence blows back . I missed a trick I should  have made  a slightly higher lift  camshaft when I fabricated  one to replace the   broken one !

     

  18. Tom Sorry  to hear  about the Hupp I know the feeling having just had  my engine out with the suspected same thing. In the end was  nothing more than  a loose  flywheel which fooled  more experienced  people than me .

    However you are lucky that the crank wasn't damaged . The Joys of old cars --I have just spent  several hours  in the shed fiddling with  the throttle linkage  on the Breeze.  I wasn't getting full  butterfly opening  on  full gas pedal    I fixed it   but absolutely no change in   performance  and the  throttle linkage became so complicated that it  wouldn't revert back to idle when I let the gas off - I took the whole lot off and went back to  how it was previously ..  Go figure !  -Karl 

     

  19. Interestingly I took my car for  a run this afternoon  despite it being  in the middle of winter here  . In light of this  thread I opened it up and  30 mph was about it . Pondering on this I took  particular note of  where the  throttle arm on the Breeze was at full throttle  and it appears that  the throttle plate is only about  2/3 open at full throttle . Further inspection revealed that there is  about 4 .5 cm  of movement of the  throttle lever on the carb from closed to  fully open  throttle  plate in the X plane  . However   fully depressed  gas pedal only moves the  gas pedal carb linkage   open 3cm  in the X plane  ie with the present set up  I'm never going to get fully open throttle plate in the carb.  The solution is to make a shorter lever  between the throttle plate and the  gas pedal linkage  Which I will get onto on the weekend .  The 40-45 mph I have had previously was with the Holly  NH set up -I wonder if the getting the throttle plate right will make a difference -I suspect so !

  20. David  I would have thought  700 to 800  would be cheap  for  a restored Breeze . Stan Howe  probably charged  Phil  and  I over 1/2 that  to restore  each of our carbs a few years ago..(and I don't regret a cent of it) 

    Karl 

  21. Looking at the Breeze carb again I wonder if it would  fit  the original manifold it might not be much taller than the original -Hard to tell .

    At the end of your manifold there would have been circular fitting which had a screw in plug  fitting  in it . You screwed the plug  in to draw heated air  into the carb or  removed  it to increase airflow of unheated  air from below (which is what most of us do as restricted and hot air  intake severely  reduces performance-but in  the day  encouraged  combustion  of  the then poor quality gas   ) -Karl 

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