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Everything posted by 1910Hupp

  1. David -I'm glad you got it -Karl
  2. There is a Model 20 engine on Ebay currently I would love to buy it but unfortunately the 12000 miles of freight for this heavy item makes it unaffordable for me However someone else on here might be interested
  3. Looks nice - Setting up the magneto is a pain -I'm always amazed at how a small change in the magneto drive as you connect everything up changes the timing so much . A tooth off makes a big difference. They always seem to move for me as I bring the camshaft gear and magneto drive together on the Hup -One day I'll make a jig to hold the drive fixed as i connect -Karl
  4. This afternoon I set up a timing light and looked at the flywheel position when fully advanced which is were I run it all the time -I'm getting about 28 to 30 degrees of advance. It doesn't kick back at this setting. I was taught at a young age how to crank a car by my father -However I see videos all the time of people with their thumb over the crank handle and pushing the crank down as the spin the engine and shudder . As an MD I've seen my fair share of wrist and thumb fractures and they can cause long term problems -
  5. Yes the segments referred to are the brass segments . Hupp has a funny way of setting the fixed timing -If you follow the instructions in the manual you actually find tdc and then continue to rotate the flywheel by about 5/8 of an inch and then you set the magneto up to fire on Number 1 Effectively the ignition is retarded when set up . I have fiddled with variable ignition and set it up as per the instructions but set the variable timing at full retarded at that point .Interestingly it runs best and starts best fully advanced so I just leave it there
  6. 1910Hupp

    Hupp 20

    Mines pinstriped black and of course non original color. Also has buttoned seats ! All incorrect and how i brought it . I have thought about changing it back to "oriiginal" but really 111 years later who ( other than us-and we're debating it ) would really know or care . Just nice to see them out there being used !
  7. Simon I spent several years before I found a complete unit and I suspect the complete unit is more common than the parts which would have been discarded as useless and/or unidentified over the 107 years since Breeze went out of business . You should try Stan Howe in Montana who is the guru of brass carb restorers -If anyone is able to help you it will he him. I know he has restored several Breeze carbs including mine and Phils who posts on here. Sorry I have mislaid his contact details but he should be easy to find via an internet search -All the best -Karl
  8. Phil -What did you do with the patterns for casting the inlet manifold ? Now that you have sold your car I would be really keen to make sure that we retain/purchase the patterns for others (who like you and I are mad enough to use the original set up) to use if required . As mentioned previously I have patterns for the exhaust manifold and get get casting done relatively cheaply here in New Zealand (the foundry I use casts parts for Peter Jacksons World War One replica fighter planes ) -Karl
  9. I suspect your chances of finding some is pretty low -Just get some made they are not complicated -Karl
  10. My starting procedure is essentially the same . However I never use the priming cups unless it refuses to start. I normally flood the carb with the tickler first until gas flows out the bowl and I open the carb by about 3/4 turn until it runs then close it up . I to have little trouble with the Breeze - Probably because Stan Howe rebuilt and adjusted both Phil and my carbs . Before fitting the correct Breeze i was running a Holley NH on a butchered manifold Designed for the Model T the carb was to big for the little Hup engine and I could never get a good idle but I probably got another 5 mph top speed and quicker pick up -But prefer to be original
  11. I had a cam made for mine . Wasn't expensive including manufacture Grinding and hardening at about NZ$1000 ie about US$ 600 depending on exchange rate , Of course it would need shipping to the States from here which would probably add another $60 to the cost -Karl
  12. I once tried EP oil in the gearbox and severe slippage with this the car wouldn't drive up a slight slope I went to 30 weight gear oil and it was fine but now i just use 30 wt engine oil and have no problems Karl
  13. Tom I think I've worked out the issue . Last night I started the car up to move it to get to some parts . In the dark I could see something like the 4th July going on the front of the magneto . The spark plug wires were shorting out between each other . I suspect this sometimes was causing partial ignition in a cylinder at the wrong time ie with the inlet valve still open and the resulting pressure wave out the inlet manifold was pushing gas out of the carb. Some Insulating tape and there is a much smoother engine and no gas vapour out the bottom of the carb. Karl
  14. I agree its probably lack of cam . I do have a recast inlet Manifold on it with the complicated passages inherent in those so hope that there is not an internal obstruction there . I guess i should take the manifold off and check the passages are ok by probing them . I guess I would look pretty stupid if there was some core sand still left in there -Karl
  15. Here are some photos of the correct Breeze carb off Stan Howe's website
  16. No Its not the correct one -but very close You can see in my photos that the air valve housing is different . I'd always been told that the correct carb was a Breeze H3 but your carb is definitely different to the Breeze Carb on mine and other originals I have seen . Who knows maybe Hup started with your carb and it morphed into my model with a bigger (at least looking) air valve There are no numbers on mine. I will try and get some photos for you of what I and Stan Howe (the guru of brass carbs) believe is the correct carb -Karl
  17. I agree David 100% its my pet peeve ! So many times I have been told that the original set up on my vintage vehicles is no good and needs to be upgraded . I've been told this for just about every system you could think of on a vintage car Invariably the person giving this information has a vehicle that has not been restored properly or is relying on someones opinion whose vehicle is also not restored correctly . A case in point this afternoon I took my 34 Ford to run some errands . Its winter here and today is wet and cold . I was travelling at the end of a stream of modern traffic at 30mph on a wet road . The distance between cars was about the same . A car two in front of me stopped suddenly and we all applied our brakes vigorously at about the same time . The car in front of me hit the stopped car I stopped well short of him He had modern Hydraulic ABS brakes I have completely stock standard mechanical rod brakes.. However my brakes have been rebuilt correctly with NOS parts NOS linings which are centred correctly. The Drums are perfectly round and well within tolerance for wear All the clevis are good with no slop The cross shaft is correctly positioned . The rods are the correct length. As well everything is set up correctly and well lubricated . I would love a dollar for every time I have been told that rod brakes are useless and you need hydraulics -mine aren't ! I think we are conditioned to think that we are different or perhaps superior to our ancestors . As you say David when Mr and Mrs Citizen forked out their hard earned depression cash for their new Ford in 1934 they expected it to stop and stop well . If it didn't they would be banging on the dealers door just as I would if my new Lexus didn't do what it was supposed to . I do lots of miles in my cars and shamefully admit I brought into the upgrade myth and changed (or accepted changes by previous owners ) from original in my early days of vintage car ownership. However over time I have reversed all the changes I made and with good quality NOS parts my cars perform better and are more reliable than with any of the "upgrades".
  18. No the correct Breeze H3 for the car .
  19. This is my one Had a windshield as per my avatar but given the limited running was more fun to go with the monocle windshield Probably less drag as well ! Never seen another with the Breeze Strainer-Karl
  20. Tom Nice to know some one else has the same problem . I have still fabricated a new bell crank linkage which gives me the full range of butterfly movement without the previous binding- although I have no expectation of lightening performance . I think the valve lift is the issue. as I've noticed at full throttle there is a heck of a lot of gas vapour pouring out the bottom of the carb. My theory is all the vapour the carb is producing can't get past the inlet valves and hence blows back . I missed a trick I should have made a slightly higher lift camshaft when I fabricated one to replace the broken one !
  21. Tom Sorry to hear about the Hupp I know the feeling having just had my engine out with the suspected same thing. In the end was nothing more than a loose flywheel which fooled more experienced people than me . However you are lucky that the crank wasn't damaged . The Joys of old cars --I have just spent several hours in the shed fiddling with the throttle linkage on the Breeze. I wasn't getting full butterfly opening on full gas pedal I fixed it but absolutely no change in performance and the throttle linkage became so complicated that it wouldn't revert back to idle when I let the gas off - I took the whole lot off and went back to how it was previously .. Go figure ! -Karl
  22. Interestingly I took my car for a run this afternoon despite it being in the middle of winter here . In light of this thread I opened it up and 30 mph was about it . Pondering on this I took particular note of where the throttle arm on the Breeze was at full throttle and it appears that the throttle plate is only about 2/3 open at full throttle . Further inspection revealed that there is about 4 .5 cm of movement of the throttle lever on the carb from closed to fully open throttle plate in the X plane . However fully depressed gas pedal only moves the gas pedal carb linkage open 3cm in the X plane ie with the present set up I'm never going to get fully open throttle plate in the carb. The solution is to make a shorter lever between the throttle plate and the gas pedal linkage Which I will get onto on the weekend . The 40-45 mph I have had previously was with the Holly NH set up -I wonder if the getting the throttle plate right will make a difference -I suspect so !
  23. David I would have thought 700 to 800 would be cheap for a restored Breeze . Stan Howe probably charged Phil and I over 1/2 that to restore each of our carbs a few years ago..(and I don't regret a cent of it) Karl
  24. Looking at the Breeze carb again I wonder if it would fit the original manifold it might not be much taller than the original -Hard to tell . At the end of your manifold there would have been circular fitting which had a screw in plug fitting in it . You screwed the plug in to draw heated air into the carb or removed it to increase airflow of unheated air from below (which is what most of us do as restricted and hot air intake severely reduces performance-but in the day encouraged combustion of the then poor quality gas ) -Karl
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