[Engine for a 1930 CJ six]

Unless you are seeking a very authentic restoration, it should be possible to use a multitude of 6-cylinder Mopar engines from 1931 and 30 years later. Is the engine head 23 inches (58 cm) long?

[Model 72 bumper bar]

Definitely not the one to the right, possibly the left one is also twisted backwards. Offer the bumper up to the car, the end should be about this distance from the rear fender (to my understanding):

PS: RHD cars has the step plates on the left, this car has been converted from RHD to LHD.

[Chrysler 72 spark plugs]

I advocate for the evaluation of different plugs and finding optimum plug reach. This S65 engine was run with standard Model A Ford Autolite #3076 plugs (1/2" reach?) before I switched to the slightly longer reach (3/4"??) of these Champions (forgot the #, probably also made mainly for Model A and thus easily obtainable). As visualized, the Champion plugs brought the spark more into the combustion chamber. The car then  ran 3 mph faster up my test hill after the changeover, but that might be also related to all fresh plugs.

[WTB: 323 cui Chrysler L8 oil pressure regulator]

I have tried one from a Series 65. It did fit the thread, but otherwise did not work on the L8 engine.

[Early Chrysler judging rules]

I know some consider this to be a too greenish color, but previous WPC President Sherwood Kahlenberg recommended me to use 56 Ford Meadowgreen for the blocks back in 1982 and I bought one liter with that blend. That can has now been used to paint four engines, so in my part of the woods all cars has uniform engine color..

[WTB: 323 cui Chrysler L8 oil pressure regulator]

After 5 runs of heating to red hot with no result, I now have decided to look for a replacement oil pressure regulator for a 323 cui L8. The engine is a 1947, but most years will fit I reckon - and  it is different than L6 before you ask.

So: Anyone got one to spare? My engine is up and running, but oil pressure stays at above 65 ftlbs and the internal bolt in the regulator is completely stuck so I cannot regulate the pressure.

 

Payment through Paypal and freight through a courier company in Delaware is preferred methods.

 

Note: For the scammers out there, be aware that I am seriously skeptic to whoever sends me a PM without being able to send new pictures of the item.

 

 

[In Pursuit of The Elusive & Expensive Red Head]

Refer the eBay item https://www.ebay.com/itm/174197641407 It is obviously a reproduction, interesting to note that someone is willing to produce such a low demand product and I guess the price is acceptable if you compare the cost/price of raised compression 23" and 25 " Mopar L6 heads a few years back. I would personally have included more information in advertising such an expensive item, that differs from the original by being made in aluminum and omitting the cylinder #6 check hole.

[In Pursuit of The Elusive & Expensive Red Head]

Good call, the easy way out is using red paint on whatever head you have. Most people do not know where to look for the elusive script.

 

[WTB Chrysler 75 Roadster 1929 Crankshaft or engine]

I have a rotten Series 72 engine here in Norway and an even worse Series 75 engine. Both are missing the heads, and the S75 has been dug into the ground for 25 years. You can have the Series 75 for scrap metal value plus a small amount, no guarantees implied.

[WTB Chrysler 1946-50, 323.5 cu in, straight 8 engine block]

3 hours ago, martanke said:

Well I finally found one. It's a 1950 industrial engine (IND-12A) that appears to be in really good shape.

 

Good to hear,

may you now have some external parts in spare? I need a oil pressure relief valve and a late 323 cui style oil filter mount (full-flow oil filter as found on 1946/47 and newer engines). These two items are badly needed for my 1947 race-car engine that now runs (but still has the two issues mentioned.

 

[1931 CM6 vibration]

Try to wiggle the propeller shaft. If it has noticeable sideways slack, you should put it on a repair list. I had my driveshaft fitted with "modern" universal joints at an acceptable price. The guys at the shop said Chrysler shafts are notorious for their shafts enabling longitudinal movement at both ends (same principle also 30 years later). You should also try to take the car up to 25 mph+, push the car in neutral and maybe switch off the engine to eliminate vibrations from the engine/gearbox.

The main culprit for vibrations on my 1929 was the wheels. After some attempts to balance them without much success, I bit the apple and had new rims made. That also sorted the fear of having a sloppy locking ring fell off at speed (happened once).

But I still have vibrations, and believe there is something inside my gearbox that starts wiggling around when I get past 40 mph. Anyone having dealt with such before?

[1929 Chrysler Series 65 Horn Button Ass'y]

Stay put. I need to do a similar job on a car and can take some "exploded" pictures, as I have access to cars with complete steering wheel controls.

[Correct tail lamps for 1929 Chrysler Series 65?]

I have this taillight by CM Hall to be used as a 2nd taillight on a Series 75. Inside taillight door diameter is 4 5/16" which looks to be standard for larger beehive style taillights on Mopars. The bolts towards the taillight-stand were NorthSouth oriented and we had to change that for the more common EastWest with an adapter. Then the (non-original) taillight door had its holes at the centerline and did not fit the glass, but thanks to Jay Astheimer that should also be corrected to one with the more common slightly southern latitude as you have on yours. Bottom line, you should possibly also be able to use a taillight glass like the one here, which I believe is common?

 

[72 Firewall Patent tag]

Get a used one or be prepared to pay way too much on eBay. I am trying to get an European supplier to make me a Canadian/Windsor version, but he has dodged my quests so far.

[Early Chrysler judging rules]

The WPChysler Club did judge plenty of pre-war cars in the 70s through 00s, and the magazine had up until 1990 quite some good stories on various models with detail-information. Someone knew these cars, question is whether that someone still active today. Anyhow I doubt that standards have been written down, like for British sportscars or Corvettes.

[CD / CP 8 transmission]

Many owners never realize that their car is 4-speed as the "to-the-left-of-regular-first-gear" placed first on a 4-speed is never needed. To my understanding the 4-gear transmission on these cars and some other American cars of the era like Packard, is indeed a 3-speed with an added crawler gear to get out of muddy conditions.

[Mystery part of the day]

2 hours ago, leomara said:

Observe...and a correction, only 2 bolts

 

Apologies, they moved to four bolts for the "1929" models (65 and 75) which I do work the most on.

[Mystery part of the day]

Engine stabiliser/vibration damper, mounted on firewall with 4 bolts and the arm onto the left rearmost top bolt/nut of engine.

[1948 New Yorker Comfort Master heater]

This is the best that I got. 1) My parts spread out including some very brittle 80 year old cardboard ducts for the main air outlets and 2) a installation kit overview showing some of the smaller ducts for defrosting etc. I strongly believe it is better to improvise than trying to hunt down the missing hens teeth OEM items, anyhow when installed everything will be out of sight and function is the most important.

[Fuel vacuum tank Model 72 vs 75]

3x of my Series 65 and the 1x Series 75 all had #216 style Stewart-Warner tanks, but I have also had one Series 65 with a smaller diameter Stewart-Warner and one Kingston. I will use whatever pumps fuel and does not leak..

[1948 New Yorker Comfort Master heater]

I bought a Dual Comfort system from a gentleman who had two of them and decided that installing one was enough, it took him all Winter. On the other hand it is the best heater there is for a 40s Chrysler, possibly supplied by an underseat heater to add comfort for the rear seat passengers. One day I will start installing mine, despite some missing parts. There is an installation guide with most of the small parts visible, hopefully they can be replaced by generic stuff when something is missing.

[Source for brake hydraulic parts 1928 72.]

You likely have a 1 1/4" diameter master cylinder, which was used for decades and only a few years ago was stocked on most NAPA outlets. If so they should be easily available.

[1928 Model 72 windshield post question]

Either for a side-curtain snaps as already mentioned, or for securing the wind-wings.

[Fuel vacuum tank Model 72 vs 75]

Probably the same tank,

anyhow most versions of vacuum tank will work on your car. I have run my Series 65s with three different tanks, including the OEM Stewart-Warner tank.

[1928 Model 72 Rodster parts ID.]

All Series 62/72 Roadsters had Red Head engines, while the raised compression heads was an option on the other models. This cap however might not fit a Series 72 and is possibly only good for the later Series 65/75? I have now a Series 75 with Red Head engine (but not the correct gas tank lid) and would also very much like to purchase your Red Head gas cap if you do not need it yourselves.