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Posts posted by Narve N
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My impression is that although few color options were listed simultaneously for a type of bodywork, the colors available changed more than one time during production of any series. Like a different set of colors for the Spring etc. This could also be the case for CD8, a Series that noticeably also was otherwise altered a lot during its production.
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Would this be accurate enough, guess it should be possible to interpolate spacing against molding width and Hayes tag size? I can make measurements by the mm, but that would take some days.
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They are different for various bodyworks, but a Roadster one can be cut down from some other versions. I do believe I have a rotten Roadster version laying around, suitable for copying including mirroring for the other side.
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Cool idea, I have studied this object for several years and also been in contact with some of the sources through the years, but have no contact details to recent participants. You should ask for info on several platforms to get hold of some of the people that has run Mille Miglia, LeMans Classic etc in the later years. To my knowledge nobody has run at Goodwood with a prewar Chrysler, which is a venue where as you state it always helps to have a driver with track record.
Generally you might say that to be competitive several modifications are needed (since everyone else also hops up their cars), but to have fun driving fast around the Italian countryside in Mille Miglia mostly requires to have a well sorted car. On the other side, heavily modified vintage Chryslers tend to do well on Peking - Paris runs (next in 2024). Enclosed is a picture of Ray Jones (AUS) Series 75 engine at Le Mans 2006, he was keeping pace with anyone in his class thanks to numerous modifications.
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51 minutes ago, BlueDevil said:
Narve,
I get no movement in either direction off the front crank nut.
You get much better leverage with a crow bar on the flywheel cranking tooth.
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I used a crow bar on the flywheel (removed lower clutch-housing pan) and carefully wiggled back and forth on a overhauled-but-never-started-for-40-years Chrysler engine. It worked. If valves are stuck (which yours are not), the engine usually can be turned somewhat before binding.
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They will fit 1929 Chrysler (both series 65 and 75) with wire wheels and wheel bolts outside the hub. If wire wheels with bolts inside the wheel hub/behind the cap, the diameter is 6 5/8" (I need four of the larger ones!)
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Bill Hirsch's version of hogshair was copied from a sample of the original mats in my 1940 New Yorker some 25 years ago. The product looked very convincing when I bought a set.
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Back in 1981 I bought a set of NOS wooden wheel caps from Burchill Antique Auto Parts for my Series 65 Touring restoration, these had red paint in the circle outside the Chrysler crest. The caps were never used and are now on a Series 75 Roadster with wooden wheels.
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Looks like you have a Pandoras box in void of a shutter mechanism. Here are two photos, one displays the original outlook of the shutter mechanism access at rear of radiator and the other is what I believe most of an extra shutter mechanism as an exploded view.
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This is what I figured out from my pile of parts. The locking rod attached to the key-cylinder has been cut off, but the upper and lower wheel holding brackets should be all there. It is a Series 75.
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Series 75 radiator shutters are contained inside the radiator, unlike Packard/Pierce (and Imperial CG). Open the cover and check whether there are disks inside.
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Front cylinders are clearly marked as such and has a larger bore than rears. Left/right each pair is identical. Same cylinders on a Series 65 if you need to search for any.
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Hopefully this original 1940 advert displays the use of plaid and vinyl/leather for the first year of Highlander trim, as compared to later years. I believe my car is not that far out of original pattern.
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I believe the material was initially introduced for the 1940 models and continued onward for maybe two decades as reported by StillOutThere. The plaid pattern in 1940 was more or less the same as later years, but plaid content versus leather/vinyl sidings was higher as the cushions and backs were almost entirely in plaid pattern. This is my 1940 New Yorker. (Reupholstered prior to my ownership, no guarantee for the accuracy of the restoration). While at it, in 1940 Chrysler also offered a Navajo themed pattern in 1940 that I have heard about, but never seen any recent photo of. Also the claim that in 1940 the Highlander was a separate sub-series is false, refer the paperwork of my 1940 New Yorker supplied with the option of "Red Comb. Plaid".
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From the looks of the stuff we have, it appears that painted is the OEM finish (like the latter car displayed) and not chrome, for the wheel securing hardware on a Series75?
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Not to my knowledge and certainly nothing found on the car we are restoring.
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Having removed several starters, I add the method of careful use of a breaker bar plus penetrating oil, to the aforementioned use of rubber mallet - or hammer and a piece of 2x4 to soften the blows.
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According to my findings, it is straps on a Series 65and bolts on Series 75. During Chryslers 28/29 effort at Le Mans and other European races, the most common reason for cars dropping out of competition was by the way due to "fuel tank falling off".
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To chime in, on a Series 65 the hood locks are chromed as found on several parts cars, whilst the cups attached to the hood itself appear to have been painted. I did power hammer aluminum rivets on one hood and used cheater rivet-look-a-like bolts with locknuts on the back on another. The last version was most durable..
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59 minutes ago, BlueDevil said:
Ok, I got verification that mine is a Hayes Bodied car, but without rear door vents!
It looks like someone has placed the Hayes badge on the car's rear where normally you would find the Chrysler-script badge. The Hayes is otherwise found on the lower front right cowl, just behind the chrome strip. Do you have a photo of the entire car, is there a rear cowl with hydraulic lever to ease entry and exit?
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The 65/75 sales brochure only lists 7 models of Series 75 whilst Dammann "70 years of Chrysler", printed 1974 has at least 11 different versions including three different phaetons: 1) The Tonneau/Sport/Dual Cowl (as found in the brochure, with short rear overhang and vents in rear doors which they produced 227 of, I have pictures of 10+ survivors. 2) A 5-pass conventional phaeton (longer rear and no OEM rear windshield and not in the brochure), production 248 and somewhat more uncommon today I have pictures of 5 survivors, and 3) a 7-pass with auxiliary seats and similar in outward appearance to the 5-pass and also missing from the brochure and which they only made 11 of. I do not know if any has survived of the last version. Locke is mentioned several times by Dammann in the 28/29/30 model pages, but only in connection with Imperial models.
Could your car be a version 2 with a second windshield added? Auster screens as the Brits call them were popular in the days to add comfort for rear seat passengers. Any pictures? Here are two of the 5-pass Phaetons I have found through the years:
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If you by Tonneau Phaeton mean the same as the more commonly used Dual Cowl which in sales literature was called Sport Phaeton, then those bodies were made by Hayes on the S75. All of them to my knowledge. I observe that some S77 DCPs are marked as being made by Locke, and Locke did make an own version of the 28 Imperial Roadster (rear entrance door a novelty).
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Unless you are seeking a very authentic restoration, it should be possible to use a multitude of 6-cylinder Mopar engines from 1931 and 30 years later. Is the engine head 23 inches (58 cm) long?
Wheelbase
in Chrysler Products - General
Posted
Looked up in "Standard Catalog of American Cars" (Volume1, 1805-1942) by Austin/Kimes (1996), which states your measurement 118 3/4" for Series 72, and also "American Car Spotters Guide 1920-1939" by Ted Burness (1975) states 118 3/4", while "70 Years of Chrysler" by Dammann (1974) quotes 120 1/2". Typically if one publication has an incorrect piece of information, others will copy that. I have through the years found several bits of incorrect information in the Dammann book, so a misguided wheelbase could easily sneak in.
I do have a Series 72 chassis, but not at my location, so a check of that would have to wait for some weeks.