ron hausmann
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Posts posted by ron hausmann
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On 1/13/2024 at 10:21 AM, ron hausmann said:
Doug - OOPS
I guess you just need the motometer and the Kissel nameplate, not the cap (dogbone).
ill check next week.
Ron
Hey Doug,
I have one senior Boyce motometet but there are better, cheaper ones available on eBay. I suggest you buy there.
I have one replacement new thermocouple for those big meters . Sell that for $100 if you want. Always have a spare!
Take care.
Ron
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Doug - OOPS
I guess you just need the motometer and the Kissel nameplate, not the cap (dogbone).
ill check next week.
Ron
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5 minutes ago, DBKissel said:
Hey Ron, Do you have a KISSEL motometer for sale that would fit the 1927 Brougham I have? I can get dimensions if you have something.
Just need the logo'd meter, I have the dogbone cap.
/Doug
Dpug,
As you know, kissel had a number of different sized radiator caps.
is yours an interior or exterior type? What is the diameter and TPI please?thank you!
Ron
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32 minutes ago, roysboystoys said:
Thank you Rob!
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All,
I’m selling off the remnants of ten High-end Kissel parts-cars that I have scavenged off of for the last four decades of my Kissel restorations. The list of items that I have available is too extensive to post here. It includes cowl lights, Ryan headlights, door handles, cranks, flush and octagon Houk wheel items, complete Kissel 6 and 8 engines, instruments and clocks, and all sorts of chassis parts. Some body panels and cowls as well. If you want to build a speedster or a Rat-rod, this is your Honey-hole.
Send me your address or number and I will send you a complete listing. Or come see my shop in the Detroit area.
Once they are gone, you are SOL.
Ron Hausmann P.E.
313-510-8463
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On 1/8/2024 at 6:29 PM, MotiveLensPhoto said:
Forget about what YOU use it for. Think what it could be used for. Same thing as decluttering your house. You want a prospective buyer to see how their stuff will fit, not how your stuff does (or doesn't) fit. If you haven't already and the weather cooperates, empty it out and take some photos of the interior, showing doors, cabinets, electrical, etc.
I agree completely with the above! Real estate selling depends upon “location, location, location”, not use.
Ron Hausmann
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Here is a picture of the original Kissel Gold Bug vehicle number plaque and a new one that I punched from today. This is mounted on the cowl inside the engine bay. Also shown is the paired plaque which is mounted on the right front fender base. Kissels had the vehicle numbers in these two locations.
Ron Hausmann P.E.
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All,
We are making good progress finally on the two remaining large pieces, the body painting and the engine.
Here is the status as of January 7, 2024;
1. Body fitting and metal warping is complete!
2. New rear deck apron has been fabricated and fitted. Looking great!
3. New front apron under radiator has been fabricated and fitted. Also great!
4. Priming and painting have just started. Will start getting final layers on this month.
5. Engine rebuilding has started. Old engine is worn but repairable. After disassembly we are ok with connecting rods, block, head, and valve train. Will probably grind all valve surfaces, sleeve piston cylinders, and fit new aluminum pistons.
6. Have refurbished an antique after-market air cleaner that I will use. Stock engine had no cleaner.
thanks,
Ron Hausmann P.E.
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All,
Unfortunately, many many small shops that catered to small- job restoration stuff for guys like us have gone out of business in these last couple of years. Not enough volume to justify staying around. In Detroit, the two top antique car chrome/nickel plating companies, Fini-Finish and B&W, just went out of business this year. Less and less of these specialty folks!
Ron Hausmann P.E.
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Here are those E &J Model 20 lights on my Kissel Gold Bug. These were dealer installed options for the Gold Bug Speedster in 1922 and 1923. They look wonderful, but they don’t create much light in their original small bulb installation, but who drives those cars at night anyhow? Stock headlights were barrel-type as on the unrestored Bug in the last picture.
Ron,Hausmann P.E.
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All,
As of December 19 2023 we are back at it.
1. Fitting body, fenders, aprons, and skirts together before final painting. kissel did not use stamped metal body panels. They pounded steel and aluminum sheets on mandrel bucks in batches, and then matched L and R pairs as best as they could. So there is a lot of variation on supposed symmetry of the various pieces that requires pre- fitting and shimming.2. Shipping engine to professional rebuilder to have the ”guts” checked out. I’ve never opened up this engine. I have however rebuilt all of the piping and attachments for the engine.
3. I am sandblasting the exhaust manifold. Need to reweld a couple bolt tabs that broke off. I want to nickel the manifold to dress it up.
Stay tuned.
Ron Hausmann P.E.
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3 minutes ago, hursst said:
Ron, amazing work, as usual. Where do you get your fasteners for this car, such as the nuts, bolts, washers for your exhaust cut-out? Do you have the originals, a stash of period fasteners, or do you have to do your best at the hardware store...or maybe all the above?
Hursst,
I have a few coffee cans full of period correct fasteners. They are cleaned but mostly a bit chewed up. That works for mos5 of the pieces that need painted bolts.
Also close to my shop is an old style hardware store that still sells flat head screws in all required sizes and bolts without proof marks. And they sell hundreds of differ3nt springs too.
Between those two outlets, I’m usually ok.
As a last resort, Restoration supply and the internet always have what one needs.
Ron
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As of December 2, 2023, I’ve continued working on minor parts restoration as I await the completion of the main body at the painter.
Below are pictures of the Kissel exhaust cutout fitting and the actual segmental muffler. On past cars I’ve usually used a more modern exhaust system and muffler. It’s less expensive and actually cannot easily be observed. And the modern mounts are more rigid. But for this Gold Bug, which I hope to make a national winner, i’m striving for 100% originality. So I'm using the original exhaust fittings. Also, the big 3” exhaust dump and piping aren’t easily found today.
I had to fabricate the exhaust flap pivot shaft since the original one was broken off at the neck and couldn’t be welded. A long cut off 5/8” bolt was used but I had to cut the flap into it and create mounting screws and spring slot. Took a day.
Note casting date on exhaust part - 11-12-18.
Thanks, Ron Hausmann P.E.
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All,
getting there. Here are pictures today, November 27, 2023.
Working on hood and step plate figments.
The painters work is beyond excellent. Better than new.
Ron
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Thanks carbking.
You have superior knowledge as to these applications. And certainly are more correct.
I would likewise not recommend interchanging different sized Stromberg carbs with Zenoths or Marvels.
However, I have had good luck and success when interchanging different sizes and models of near-year Stromberg carbs. Stromberg OS-2 for Stromberg LB-2; Stromberg OS-1 for OS-2; and the like. Perhaps interchanging of Strombergs only is more conducive to success than other makes? Indeed, I switched out my LB-1 on my Sedanlette with a Stromberg OS-1 and the car seemingly runs with more power. I know that the Venturi flows are different, but not by much, so for these less-driven cars, I don’t think that exactness really matters.
His best solution would certainly be making the M-5 work. But maybe interchanging a Stromberg M5 for an M4 gets this persons car running, so at least it can be enjoyed. While he waits years for locating a correct Stromberg M5. It won’t hurt anything and get the car going.Take care.
Ron -
Day,
Stromberg sold dozens of adapters in the 1910’s and 1920’s which allowed you to use one size carb flange to attach to a different size. I’ve got their catalogue in fact. That SAE size for Stromberg, means the c-to-c measurement between flange bolts at the intake, as carbking says above. There is I think a 1/4” difference for each size. I’ve never seen a Stromberg M5. I have seen Stromberg M4 carbs and they are occasionally on eBay. Both are big orifices.
If I were you, and not planning on racing my Seagrave, I would buy a Stromberg M4, and buy or build a small adapter to mount it to your M5 flange. Other connections for gas and carb controls would be identical.Trivia - (Stromberg M4 carbs were original equipment on 1920’s Revere cars which had Rochester-Duesenberg engines). Big beasts.
Ron Hausmann P.E.
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On 11/25/2023 at 10:46 AM, Tbone8728 said:
I live in Michigan and have an older vehicle on my property, originally from my grandfather from California. Long story short, I've been to Secretary of State (MI DMV), and they cannot find its registry or anything else on the vehicle (i.e. no title). I've only been able to locate the VIN number. I have limited funding but am wanting to get this vehicle in my name. How would I go about this?
Hey Tbone8728,
I live in Michigan. I have titled several cars here in Michigan which I bought without title. For those cars, once I paid the sales tax, the Secretary of State merely issued a title.
It’s relatively easier than most of these posts above indicate, IF you have proof that you actually own the car and IF you have the VIN. I’ve titled several cars with just a handwritten bill-of-sale. I assume that if you have a note or letter saying that you’ve acquired ownership of that car (or estate) you have requisite proof.Then all you do is apply for a lost title at the Michigan SOS.
Michigan adopted the national title registry in 2017, so the Michigan SOS will run the VIN to see if your car was ever junked or rebuilt or salvaged. If it was, the car will need to be inspected, which is troublesome and pricey. But If not, they will issue a title.
Good Luck.
Ron Hausmann P.E. -
1 hour ago, Mr. Don said:
Hello, I'm new here, your project completely captivated me. I didn't really know of Kissels, but will now consider it a pleasure to watch your final steps.
Thank you for posting these images, and teaching me the value of Hot Formed Rivets over welded joins, and bolts!
You are welcome!
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All,
Thanksgiving 2023 involved working on miscellaneous tasks.
1. Made door sills and polished and drilled them2. Cleaned and painted exhaust cutout foot pedal
3. cleans, painted, and polished hood venting mechanism. Only Model 6-45 had these.
4. Coordinated final fitment of body and doors to chassis with Painters men. The fitting of the doors, body, trunk lids ,and other exposed wood parts (door and lid edges) are better and more aligned than when the car was new. The painters workmanship is extraordinary!
Ron Hausmann P.E.
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1 hour ago, 1912Staver said:
I like early trucks a lot . Two late teens Packard basket cases survived my recent move. { one 2 ton and one 3 ton } Lots of my other pre war stuff did not.
Early trucks are a challenge too high for 99.5 % of the old vehicle people out there. They are big, the parts are big, tires are very expensive!! Moving them takes much more than a regular pick up and car trailer. Parts back up does not exist. And just what do you do with a 12 M.P.H. machine when it is restored ?
Still , against any grain of common sense I took the time and expense to bring them with me. Some things have no reasonable explanation.
The 1922 Kissel freighter in my pictures above has a listed top speed of 17 mph. A real speed demon.
Ron Hausmann P.E.
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Yvonne, Lawrence, Mark.
My high quality reproduction cap in this above forum string is still available at $300 plus shipping. It has a threaded hole underneath which can be adapted to whatever mount your car has. It can be shined up nicely.
First buyer gets it. Let me know.
Ron Hausmann -
1912 Caddy,
Antique truck conversations fit in well here. Especially pre-1930 trucks. The fact however is that there are far far fewer antique trucks that exist from this period than cars. Hence there are fewer discussions.
I have interest in such antique trucks, mainly Kissels. They are as rare as hens teeth. But they exist. Here are pictures of my 1917 Kissel US Army Light Delivery Truck, and a Kissel 1918 Flyer and 1922 Freighter which their owners refused to sell me. (They preferred to have the sit outside and rust - a shame).Ron Hausmann P. E.
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Nickel Era parts for sale (1916-1925)
in Parts For Sale
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