New Speakers and Wiring - Again

[Does185]

Hi folks, I think I've read all the past postings about speakers and wiring, thanks very much to all.  I've also gone through the wiring diagrams in the service manual and verified in the car.  This is my first car audio redo, and I had a few questions for the experts.  My plans are:

 

- Want to keep the Infinity Stereo for the appearance and I mostly want to listen to MP3 player not the radio or CDs too often

- My TC actually has an Inifinity IV stereo date code 2299 with CD/cassette and it seems to work fine; a former owner of the car was a Chrysler dealer and had this upgrade put in back in ~2002.

- I want decent affordable sound for me with the top up or down but don't need to shake the concrete

- I currently connect to my phone/MP3 via a cheapo cassette adaptor from the 1990s!  Hoping to install an Audiovox UnistreamOne Bluetooth adaptor

- If I end up needing a new head unit will pick one up later

- Only 1 speaker works of the 8; I've tested all the 5.25" with a AA battery and the other 5 are no good. 

- Have tried to get at the tweeters but am giving up; I can't get the cluster off due to that tricky headlight switch and I am afraid of breaking the woodgrain facing.

- I am planning to abandon the tweeters in place as it seems others have done reading the posts.

- It seems beyond my ability and patience to repair the speakers/amps as suggested by the AllPar article, so I am going with new 5.25" speakers. 

- I appreciate the info on speakers and components by Jspartanburg and am going with Pioneers too, likely TS-G520 coaxials

- Plan on a Pioneer GM-D1004 four channel amp

- Not going to put in subwoofers at this time; could be a future adder in the trunk maybe, it seems beyond my ability to put them in the cargo area like Jspartanburg did

- I am also going with the XTC speaker protectors for the door speakers suggested by Moparite.

- Was hoping to make it easy and re-use the factory speaker wiring, just use the Green/Black as Digger noted in a past post.  I assume I can just cut and tape over the red +12 amp wires at each speaker, or cut the supply wire way back at the outlet of the speaker relay.

- I'd like to put the amp under the dash so the speaker wiring is easier, splicing into the factory wires based on the wiring diagram
 

Sound good so far?

 

Questions:

- jspartanburg put component speakers in the doors with new tweeters up front.  I was hoping to put coaxial in the doors and abandon the dash tweeters.  How does this sound?
- can I power the amp off of the +12V that comes off the speaker relay?  This wire (X13 16DG) already feeds the in-speaker amps, so does it have enough power to run a new separate four channel amp?  Or should I run a new 10 gauge wire from the battery to the amp?  

- I see on the wiring diagrams that the Infinity +12V power to the in-speaker amps goes through a choke (one for the door, one for the rears).  Do I need a choke with a  new amp and speakers arrangement?  I don't really know what a choke does except what I read online about filtering out some undesirable frequencies?

- anybody want the six 5.25" speakers?  no charge just shipping.  message me.

 

Any  comments would be appreciated.  Thanks.

 

[Hemi Dude]

That's out of my league. I hope someone with radio / speaker experience will help here.

I'm the auto mechanic that would just take a radio to the parts department and say "Send it out for repair"  

I have put an upgrade MOPAR radio in my TC with both the cassette player and CD player though, never changed speakers. That was just an out and in process.

Good luck.

[Reaper1]

I don't know how well the BT adapters work with old school head units. I guess like an FM modulator? Anyway, I have seen "upgrade" Chrysler head units with an "AUX" input on the front. Typically they only have either the tape OR CD, but not both.

 

You said you want to run an amp. because of this, I would suggest running your own speaker wire. Running the speaker outputs to the amp from the head unit, then tying the output of the amp back into the stock wiring...eh, not a fan.

 

To remove the headlight switch knob, use a pick, follow the metal bar under the knob and there's a small slot. Use the pick to push in the slot at the same time as pulling on the knob. It might take some effort. What you are doing is releasing a metal tab that locks the knob on to the metal bar. You might could use a mirror to help see what I'm talking about.

 

As for not using the tweets in the dash...it doesn't sound "bad", but the sound stage is a little "low", if that makes sense.

 

Make sure that you install the door speakers correctly. They are SUPER close to the window mechanism and the XTC baffles are super close...just make sure you orient things so the wires and all don't get caught up.

 

I'm not sure you're going to be able to fit an amp under the dash. It's very cramped under there. Maybe if you mount it in front of the HVAC box and then have a cover panel over it that matches the carpet?

 

I hope this helps!

[Does185]

On 8/9/2018 at 2:12 PM, Reaper1 said:

 

To remove the headlight switch knob, use a pick, follow the metal bar under the knob and there's a small slot. Use the pick to push in the slot at the same time as pulling on the knob. It might take some effort. What you are doing is releasing a metal tab that locks the knob on to the metal bar. You might could use a mirror to help see what I'm talking about.

Yes that took a bit of work with a pick but finally got it right and the headlight switch came off without damaging anything. Then it was a breeze to remove the tweeters. Will search for some new ones that fit. Thanks. I plan on installing everything later this week.