Power window channel replacement

[Guest TomsBuick79]

I bought my 1990 coupe thinking the power window repair would be simple but my mechanic informed me the channels for the door glass are damaged and need to go to a body shop.

Now the window has been disconnected from the power and is propped up. I bought a replacement regulator with motor that work but it will take more than that. Anyone have any suggestions before i get a estimate from a body shop? 

[89RedDarkGrey]

As you can see here, in this diagram the window components are fairly simple. You (mechanic) says they are "damaged"? Was the car I an accident severe enough to do that? There are 2 or 3 adjustments for the entire mechanism. There are 2 adjustable side slider rails (channels) then the roller track for the regulator is riveted to the glass. A reputable Body Shop should be able to get it adjusted no problem. If you do need extra parts somehow- there are several Vendors here, namely Jim Finn. KDirk and Barney Eaton are very knowledgeable on this, too.

 

You can also bring your FSM (if you have) and tell the Boy Shop to check these 3 tutorials, for further guidance if necessary-

 

Tutorial #1      Tutorial #2       Tutorial #3

 

Don't worry- they'll fix you up

Edited May 24, 2017 by 89RedDarkGrey (see edit history)

[Barney Eaton]

At first glance, it sounds like your mechanic has the attitude "not my job" .......in many cases translates to I don't know how to fix it.

One place to look (I learned this from Jim Finn) is the front lower edge of the window has a plastic guide....that fit into the front channel...if that plastic is broken the window will not stay in the channel.

Depending on your skills, you could look at the window and determine if this or something else is the problem.

Then you would have a better idea of what parts you actually need. 

 

The sketch below will give you an idea of what the plastic on the lower front of the window should look like, and how it locks into the front channel, hope this helps

[KDirk]

If you need one (or more) of the metal run channels down inside the door, I have spares for both sides in good condition. I can't imagine how these would get damaged except for a side impact that caved in the door. If you are referring to the plastic "tongue" on the forward edge of the moving door glass (that rides in the groove on the rearward edge of the vent window) that is bonded to the glass and is not repariable by any means I've found if it comes detached . Generally, if that comes loose you replace the window. I do have windows as well, but shipping is a hassle due to their fragility.

 

 

 

[89RedDarkGrey]

40 minutes ago, KDirk said:

that is bonded to the glass and is not repariable by any means I've found if it comes detached .

 

How is it "bonded"? Mechanical or chemical? 

 

A "chemical" bond with most glass is pretty straightforward- clean both pieces with acetone or zylene, then you can use a 2-piece activator/adhesive kit for rear view mirrors or urethane caulk that's used for windshields. Both products wick into the glass, and actually weld to it. I've seen the rear view mirror kit product weld to windshields so hard that attempted removal usually breaks the glass. One of those two must work- or have you tried them already?

Mirror adhesive       Window Urathane caulking

 

[KDirk]

Here's the problem. The plastic tongue bonded to the moving window is applied over the frit (black mask baked onto the glass during manufacture). While I imagine a good epoxy or even VHB tape would hold it to the glass, if the frit has pulled away from the glass, it will look lousy. I've not found anyplace that can do new frit on existing glass. I don't know what the exact process is but suspect it is done at high heat under vacuum and requires a jig to apply the frit in the needed shape and position. Granted, even if it looked lousy a successful repair would be functional. That said, I don't know how long it will hold up as I highly doubt it would have the durability of the factory bonding process.

 

I have a drivers side window here with the tongue partially detached. Someday when I have free time (yeah, that's funny) I intend to attempt a fix but will need to install it in a car to test it. Since changing these windows is a pain, I don't really want to try it just to have it fail in short order.