demountable wheel attachment bolts torque?

[erobinson]

Any idea on proper torque for the 11B demountable rim to hub bolts?  (3)

I didn't see anything other than "tighten if loose" in the manual.

 

Thanks!

E.

[mikewest]

E, What size bolts are they? 7/16 23/8 inch? Fine or coarse thread? Google a torque spec chart and consider the original wheel bolts grade 5. I would off the cuff use 40-45 ft lbs if the bolts and nuts are in good condition.

[Grimy]

I'm a little confused--your title says demountable WHEEL (modern cars have demountable wheels), but the text of your question seems to indicate demountable RIM (where the wheel stays on the car).

 

If it's a demountable RIM (as used with wooden spoke wheels), I'd consider the wheel bolts to be Grade 1 for tightening purposes.  My two 1925 Pierces have soft bolts and I don't exceed 35 lbs/ft.  That's why the factory tool kit came with a very short-handled lug wrench, so one could not put too much English on the nuts.  And yes, "lugs" are the bridges between the rims and the wheels--we haven't had lugs on passenger cars for 80 years but the term LUGNUTS has remained in the language.

 

One procedure I've found essential when changing a RIM is to set a reference point (tool box or piece of 4x4) next to the bottom of the mounted wheel, then rotate the wheel to check its runout.  Where the rim comes closer to the reference point, tighten the lug nut next to the high spot a little more.  The problem is that, especially with repaints of the wheel and rim, we have to check that the rim is indeed fully seated on the wheel.