Jerry Alexander Posted July 5, 2013 Share Posted July 5, 2013 I need your advice concerning how to improve the traction between my drive plate and the friction wheel. I have replaced the friction wheel (had it rebuilt @ the Paper Pulley Company in Columbia, TN). I have adjusted the distance between the friction wheel and the drive plate (that is what I call the metal plate that is spinning from the motor). If I adjust it any more it will the plate and friction wheel be continually with one another. Is there a spring or an adjustment that can be made on the foot pedal? Is there a way to adjust the movement of the drive plate? I have no idea of how to improve this. The car will climb minor, very minor grades. But it will not climb a grade of any significance. There is no loss of engine power. The drive plate and the friction wheel just spin and smoke while the car sets still. Another question, is the drive plate supposed to be smooth? Mine is. Does that mean I need to 'roughen' up this plate so there is some traction between the plate and the paper wheel? Is there a spray or something that can be 'adhered' to one or other of the two wheels? I entered our car in it's first parade since we have owned it. It performed beautifully. The new bottom motor cover my cousin built helped to keep the engine's cooling system functioning well too. Plus I have an auxiliary fan attached to the radiator ran by a battery in the trunk that aided in this cooling need, too. I thank you in advance for your insights into this problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
69bird Posted July 5, 2013 Share Posted July 5, 2013 Hi Jerry,I'm sure someone a lot more knowledgeable then me will chime in here. But I did learn one thing when I was having the same problem. (i think this info is in an earlier thread)The drive plate should not be smooth, there should actually be circular grooves in it. I did learn that the drive plate can be flipped around. Remove all of the screws and you can use the other side.A couple of other things, yes, there should be a spring on the foot pedal, but I believe that is there to return the pedal to the "neutral" position. (pushes it back up)The drive plate is adjusted by the foot pedal. It angles the drive plate slightly to make more contact with the friction wheel. Only push down enough to make contact. the further you push it down the worse it is and then you start "smoking"I ahven't found the thread with more info yet. It may be in the Yahoo Groups Metz site. You can try there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Alexander Posted July 5, 2013 Author Share Posted July 5, 2013 Thank you. I will look @ the Yahoo Site too. Looks like I need to begin flipping the drive plate. I have noticed that my plate 'wobbles'. Is that normal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MochetVelo Posted July 6, 2013 Share Posted July 6, 2013 I've not driven my car yet, Jerry, but there are several Metz guys who can give practical advice. Too bad you can't make it to the Metz Gathering next week. Mention this on the Metz Yahoo Forum, too. This drive system was used on numerous other cars, including Cartercar and Sears, so those owners can be of help. Be sure to join the HCCA and get a list of owners by make. I would think a roughened aluminum drive wheel would grind down your paper disc in short order. The "spring" in the drive wheel is the way it is mounted (ie; the springy steel bars behind it). It shouldn't wobble of have eccentricity. That would mean something is bent. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Alexander Posted July 6, 2013 Author Share Posted July 6, 2013 Thanks Phil. I presume when I remove the plate to turn it around that will expose the spring in the drive wheel. Then I can assess whether or not it is doing what it needs to. I imagine that it is difficult to find replacement springs for this car. I plan to keep my memberships current including the HCCA. Additionally, this car really attracted people due to both it's age and it's uniqueness for this area of the country. I also regret not being able to make it to the gathering. Next year! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MochetVelo Posted July 6, 2013 Share Posted July 6, 2013 It's not a coil spring, just a series of flat bars which provide some cushioning to the disc. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Alexander Posted July 7, 2013 Author Share Posted July 7, 2013 Oh. I am guessing that when I take the plat off to flip it I will be able to see the bars. I presume their purpose is to provide pressure to the plate to engage the friction drive. Do you know if there is any adjustment in them, to increase the pressure? I am presuming that over time they lose some of their flexibility. I am really guessing here. Also when I have the plate off I can see if what is causing the wobble. I plan to attack his later this week. Thanks for the additional information. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MochetVelo Posted July 7, 2013 Share Posted July 7, 2013 (edited) There is no adjustment to the disc "springs" unless they are deformed. I would put a dial gauge on the drive shaft to see it's bent. If not, then check the disc the same way. You needn't run the engine; just have someone crank it slowly. I would think the disc could be trued up on a large lathe. The smoking is definitely a bad sign. The paper wheel must be directly on the diameter (center-line) of the aluminum disc. If too high or low, you can picture how the paper will be abraded cross-ways, doing little else than creating heat and wear. Let us know what happens.Phil Edited July 8, 2013 by MochetVelo (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Alexander Posted July 8, 2013 Author Share Posted July 8, 2013 That centerline information is very valuable! That is something I have not checked and did not think to check. If I find it is not center lined is there an adjustment that can be made. I presume there is but where? I will find a place to test the disc to insure 'trueness' once I have it off. These projects could not be done if not you guys helping out. Enjoy the gathering next week. I regret that I will be missing it this year. If I can figure out how to post a short video on this board I will do so showing "Ethyl" at the Carthage, Illinois 4th of July Parade. Her first, mine, too. What a trip!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MochetVelo Posted July 8, 2013 Share Posted July 8, 2013 No real easy adjustments, but you can shim the engine and paper wheel mounts slightly. Check your alignment first, then you'll discern the correct course. Check your drive plate before you remove it, too. A straightedge will show if it's flat You can then use a dial gauge or just a nail or something that barely touches the disc. It should retain contact throughout the rotation, or the disc is cock-eyed. Of course, the drive-shaft must run true as well. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Alexander Posted July 8, 2013 Author Share Posted July 8, 2013 OK. Again thanks. Ethyl seems to be like me. The older I get the more adjustments I need to function properly. Just a part of the care and devotion to a special car. Have yours up and running? Last I saw you were getting close. Next year I will bring Ethyl to the annual gathering. She will be the one imitating a Model T as that is how she is presently painted. I will let you know how my investigation and repairs work out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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