Gary_Ash
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Posts posted by Gary_Ash
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When you go to the National Motor Museum in Beaulieu, England, near Southampton, be sure to stay at The Montague Arms, very close to the museum. It’s an upscale place, great old-style rooms, fine dining, and lovely gardens. There is an old village on the river that is fun to visit.
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Maybe Alexa could bring you a big bottle of Crown Royal, Ed, if it would fit in your garage...
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3 hours ago, Paul Dobbin said:
With the wheels off, the car fell on his ankle, crushing it and pinning him to the floor. His cell phone was on the work bench next to the car.
That is precisely why Alexa is a good thing to have: you can yell for help if you can't reach the phone or some other device that requires pressing a button. We don't really know if she listens and reports everything when she hasn't been called, though it's unlikely, but she sure can respond when you call her. She can call 911 or anyone else you want.
Unfortunately, she can't respond to, "Alexa, bring me a beer." At least, not yet!
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Get an Alexa device or two or four from Amazon. Put one in the garage, one in the house, one at the kids' place. If you fall and can't get up, you can always say, "Alexa, drop in on the kitchen". Then you can talk to someone in the house and yell for help. This assumes you are conscious.
The rest of the time, Alexa can play music or news in the garage for you. Alexa can also look up data for you when your hands are too greasy to open a manual. An Echo Show 5 has a 5.5 inch screen for only $50, but you can get an 8-inch or 15-inch device.
You can set up the devices, assuming your kids also have one, so that they can "drop in" on you and check your pulse by talking to you. If you are still compos mentis, you can also chat with them by audio or video. Alexa can also call 911 for you.
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Age-Activated Attention Deficit Disorder.
This is how it manifests:
I decided to water my garden.
As I turn on the hose in the driveway,
I look over at my car and decide it needs washing.
As I start toward the garage,
I notice mail on the porch table that
I brought up from the mail box earlier.
I decide to go through the mail before I wash the car.
I lay my car keys on the table,
Put the junk mail in the garbage can under the table,
And notice that the can is full.
So, I decided to put the bills back
On the table and take out the garbage first...
But then I think,
Since I'm going to be near the mailbox
When I take out the garbage anyway,
I may as well pay the bills first.
I take my check book off the table,
And see that there is only one check left.
My extra checks are in my desk in the study,
So I go inside the house to my desk where
I find the can of Diet Coke I'd been drinking.
I'm going to look for my checks,
But first I need to push the Diet Coke aside
So that I don't accidentally knock it over.
The Diet Coke is getting warm,
And I decided to put it in the refrigerator to keep it cold.
As I head toward the kitchen with the Diet Coke,
A vase of flowers on the counter
Catches my eye--they need water.
I put the Diet Coke on the counter and
discovered my reading glasses that
I've been searching for all morning.
I decided I better put them back on my desk,
But first I'm going to water the flowers.
I set the glasses back down on the counter,
Fill a container with water and suddenly spot the TV remote.
Someone left it on the kitchen table.
I realize that tonight when we go to watch TV,
I'll be looking for the remote,
But I won't remember that it's on the kitchen table,
So I decide to put it back in the den where it belongs,
But first I'll water the flowers.
I pour some water on the flowers,
But quite a bit of it spills on the floor.
So, I set the remote back on the table,
got some towels and wiped up the spill.
Then, I headed down the hall trying to
Remember what I was planning to do.
At the end of the day:
The car isn't washed,
The bills aren't paid,
There is a warm can of
Diet Coke sitting on the counter,The flowers don't have enough water,
There is still only 1 check in my check book,
I can't find the remote,
I can't find my glasses,
And I don't remember what I did with the car keys.
Then, when I try to figure out why nothing got done today,
I'm really baffled because I know I was busy all day,
And I'm really tired.
I realize this is a serious problem,
And I'll try to get some help for it, but first I'll check my e-mail...
Do me a favor.
Forward this message to everyone you know,
Because I don't remember who I've sent it to.
Don't laugh -- if this isn't you yet,your day is coming!
P.S. I don't remember who sent it to me, so if it was you, I'm sorry
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Here's my Studebaker 250 cu. in. straight 8 with four carbs, 8:1 aluminum head, about 200 hp at 4400 rpm. It's a flathead with nine main bearings (inserts) and rods with insert bearings. A car with a similar engine finished 3rd at the Indy 500 in 1933.
The Inliners site is mostly focused on Chevy 6's.
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Billy Thompson IV owns and runs the shop with his wife. Their son, called "Five", is a young boy learning the trade. It is an interesting shop in a beautiful area of Virginia, worth stopping if you are driving down I-81 and get south of Winchester, VA. Most of us are used to their ads for re-sleeving wheel cylinders but they do complete restorations of cars, have a well-managed shop with lots of skilled workers.
Billy Thompson IV in his shop at White Post Restorations.
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Actually, the 3D printed PLA plastic pattern is destroyed when using it in a "lost wax" type of investment casting. No problem, though, when only a few parts are needed. A few hours of unattended time for the 3D printer and $1 worth of material produces another pattern. We made four for Ed's impeller project so that there would be a spare for him and some parts for other people. But, for making more parts, the 3D printed part is used to make a silicone rubber mold and wax copies for casting are made from it.
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Four 3D printed patterns for investment casting via a "lost wax" process.
A 3D printed pattern (white) and investment cast carburetor linkage arms (before machining) made from wax replicas made in a silicone rubber mold of the white part. The silicon bronze parts were nickel plated after machining. Dimples are for alignment for drilling.
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Perhaps you missed the point, @TTR. The use of computers, laser scanning, 3D printing, CNC machining, and other modern technologies allows us to make replacement parts in the original materials or suitable substitutes (aluminum for bad pot metal, for example) in quantity "one of". Few cases would allow the manufacture of stamping dies or complex foundry patterns when there is no call for 10,000 parts or more.
As an example, here are pictures of the severely corroded water pump impeller for Edinmass's 1917 White and the replacement made by creating a 3D model on the computer, 3D printing a pattern, and investment casting a silicon bronze replacement which was machined to final dimensions. You can't just go out and buy parts like this from the dealership. How else would you obtain one?
The original aluminum impeller
The new impeller on the water pump shaft with a newly machined drive gear.
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Interesting post! Additionally, there are conductive versions of standard PLA filament that incorporate carbon black into the PLA. Conductivity is about 30 ohm-cm along a layer, 115 ohm-cm through the printed layers. It might be enough to allow plating directly without spraying graphite. Some 3D printed materials can be electroless nickel plated which gives coverage over edges and down into holes. Once a thin nickel layer covers the surface, any other metal can be electroplated on top.
One of my car buddies wanted to make a reproduction of a stamped sheet stainless steel grille badge that has a very complex shape. It strikes me that if a 3D printed model of the part was made, it could be electroplated with nickel to a thickness of 0.010 to 0.020 inch and the plated "electroform" part separated from the plastic base. The plating takes about 1 hour for each 0.001 inch of thickness, but this is a very common process. Caswell Plating sells kits for doing this at home, though expensive. There are also copper electroforming kits on Amazon.
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I think bumpers and other car parts are pressed from cold steel sheet, not hot. Based on a quick measurement of my 1948 Studebaker truck bumpers, I'll guess that the sheets were about 10 gauge or 0.1345 inch, but could be thicker or thinner. Except where a lot of stretching takes place, the metal probably doesn't thin out very much as the process pulls in metal from the edges. Fenders and other body parts on older cars were 18 gauge (0.048") or 20 gauge (0.036"), newer cars have thinner steel but it's a stiffer alloy.
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1 hour ago, 7th Son said:
The gas filler tube appears to fill into the bottom half of the gas tank. If that's the case, how do you get a full tank of gas? Maybe i'm seeing it wrong.
Look again: there is a vent tube that goes over the frame rail and up beside the filler pipe.
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Post a photo here, maybe someone has already reproduced your decal.
If not, it’s easy enough to make your own. You can buy waterslide decal paper online. You will need the artwork at actual size on your computer. I usually fill a whole page with multiple copies of the artwork so that I wind up with many decals. Once you have printed out the sheet on an ink jet printer, let it dry a few hours. Give the sheet 2 or 3 light coats of clear Krylon acrylic spray, let dry over night. Be careful that no Krylon gets on the back of the decal sheet.
Cut out the image from the sheet leaving a small clear border. Soak the decal in lukewarm water with a drop or two of dishwashing detergent. Soak time of about 1 minute or a bit longer will loosen the decal from the paper backing. Slide the decal onto the surface of your part. You can push it around a little with a soft artist’s brush. Dab gently to move air bubbles or trapped water to the edges of the decal. Very gently pick up excess water with a paper towel or Q-tip. Let it dry overnight.
The hardest part for you may be to create the artwork in the correct size and colors. There are many drawing programs around. If you don’t have one, maybe a friend has one.
Here is a link to some recent posts on decals:
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Area code incomplete!
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Talk to Wray Schelin in Charlton, MA. He may know where you could get a power hammer. See his website at http://proshaper. com
Wray teaches courses on how to use metal shaping equipment and he builds high quality English wheels in various sizes, much better than an old beat-up unit. You can also buy plans and parts to build your own wheel. He is in the shop from 9:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m. every day, but don’t call between 12:00 and 1:00 or between 5:30 and 7:00.
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While attending my wife’s high school reunion in central Maine, I met a guy who has been involved in casting and machining brand new cast iron blocks for old Jeeps and Model A Fords. The Model A blocks were redesigned inside to have 5 main bearings instead of 3 and pressurized oil feed, but look like the originals outside. They come with new cranks, as well. The casting is done in a production engine factory in China. While the blocks aren’t cheap, the total cost for a completed engine is about the same as sending an old block to a good machine shop.
He said the business works when there is sufficient demand to allow a run of some hundreds of blocks with the prospect of multiple runs. I quickly ran some ideas through my head for some Studebaker straight 8 engines, but I think the total demand might be 5 or 6 engines, not hundreds. Sigh!
See info on their web site at http://Burtzblock.com
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The interior wall panels make up part of the overall strength of the trailer, so you might get a lot more flexing. Also, the wood panels prevent dings and dents appearing in the outside skin from accidental bumps inside. Look at the sides of those 53 ft trailers attached to semi’s as they blast down the highway.
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Tire re-grooving tool? They were used on old truck tires.
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yes, there was a 1921 Studebaker there but I didn’t get a photo.
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I'm the guy that reproduced the Burgess air cleaner/silencer decals, have them available. I don't know where the Fram decals came from, not shown in the latest Studebaker International catalog.
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We drove from Massachusetts to Manitowoc WI via Niagara Falls, Ontario, and Michigan, took the Lake Express fast ferry from Muskegon MI to Milwaukee and drove north. The Antique Studebaker Club (ASC) started its meet on Monday, Sept. 18 and the Studebaker Drivers Club (SDC) began festivities on Tuesday. I haven't seen the count of cars yet, but there were hundreds of Studebakers from 1921 to 1966 plus Avantis into the 2000s. The car show on Saturday was open to all makes and a number of interesting old cars turned out. Here are photos of some of the cars.
We had fun in Wisconsin, got to tour Door County one day, brought home lots of cheese and cherries.
1932 Studebaker Commander, 250 cu in straight 8.
1934 Studebaker President, fresh restoration.
Three Studebaker coupes, 1936 in back, two 1937 models in front.
Rear of 1936 Studebaker coupe. Note "wig-wag" tail lights. In back, 1964 Studebaker convertible.
1939 Studebaker L5 pickup and 1925 Studebaker sedan.
1947 Studebaker M5 pickup. The white Avanti in back is one of 80-90 4-door models built circa 1988.
1951 Studebaker 2R14 pickup, 1 ton, in the ferry line returning home.
Auburn 851 sedan.
1933 Auburn 8-105 roadster.
1933 Auburn dash.
1934 Hupmobile 417-W sedan.
A 1965-ish Plymouth Fury police car we saw at a fuel stop.
OK, not a car, but a very interesting old boat: the Milwaukee Clipper, built in 1904 for Great Lakes service, rebuilt in 1940 to remove wooden cabins and superstructure to meet new safety codes, Art Deco top side and stack added. Carried passengers until 1970, now docked in Muskegon MI as a museum ship, but currently not open to visit.
Three 1966 Studebakers, the last of the breed.
A Nash, perhaps 1954.
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Barney: Alas, the hole in the wall was many feet above the ground. Poor grand-doggies would have to jump very high to reach the opening. I did close it up again to discourage possums, skunks, and others of that ilk.
We were in Wisconsin at the annual Studebaker meets (SDC and ASC) when Reggie and the boys finished their work. While plotting our route home on Google Maps, the site showed a photo taken in the last few days as the Google Maps car drove by my house, and there were Reggie's trucks and equipment. We arrived home to find the garage sitting on the new wall, the beam and cribs removed, the trench backfilled, and a new apron cast in concrete at the front. I swept up most of the concrete droppings and dust inside, then used the pressure washer to clean the floor. I had to wash the windows on the side that got repaired as they were covered in concrete grit from the sawing operation - first time they have been washed since the garage was built 22 years ago. I also washed down the garage wall outside in preparation for a new coat of stain on that side. The insulation and OSB panels got reinstalled, hardly show being sawed. I'll get some gray caulk and fill the gaps around the "doggie door" and where nails and screws got inserted in the T1-11 siding for the concrete forms. I'll have to dust and wipe down nearly everything else in the garage to get rid of the concrete dust from the sawing and pouring of the new wall. I did carefully cover the Indy car before the work started to keep dust off of it.
I'm waiting on a quote from the landscaping company to build a retaining wall to prevent future earth movement and foundation damage. It will get done soon. The we'll plan on re-paving the driveway.
The garage job is done and I'm happy with the results. I called Reggie to tell him we're home. He immediately said he'd be happy to drop by tomorrow morning to present the bill and collect a check. Fair enough!
Google Maps photo showing Reggie's pickup and equipment in my driveway.
The front of the garage with the new apron. Note how much the driveway sank relative to the new apron.
The side of the garage showing the new wall. Photo taken before I washed down the wall and windows.
The OSB panels reinstalled with the new wall in place.
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Data from the 1925-1928-1/2 Service Reference Library. Reprinted book available from Faxon Auto Literature.
Valve spring tension: 45-50 lbs when compressed 1-13/16 inch
NOTE: new type valve springs part number 114842 55-60 lbs when compressed
Push rod clearance: 0.008" cold
Piston rings: 0.012-0.022 inch gap, 8-11 lbs to close gap.
Points gap: 0.020 inch
Spark plug gap: 0.025 inch
Carburetor settings: high speed needle open 2.5 to 3.25 turns, low speed needle 1.25 to 1.5 turns
Crankshaft end play: 0.012 -0.015 inch maximum, 0.004 inch with new bearings
Piston fit in bore: 0.004-0.0045 inch clearance (new)
Oil pump cover gasket: 0.007 inch maximum thickness
Main bearing clearance: 0.0015 to 0.002 inch
Crankshaft mains: (new)
Front: 2.468 to 2.469 inch
Front center: 2.499 to 2.500 inch
Rear center: 2.530 to 2.531 inch
Rear: 2.561 to 2.562 inch
Allowed undersize worn: 0.002 inch maximum
Valve stem clearance: Intake 0.001 to 0.003 inch new, 0.004 inch max; exhaust 0.002 to 0.004 inch new, 0.004 inch max.
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Having the right amount of tongue weight on the hitch helps to avoid the tail wagging the dog. The recommended amount is 10-15% of the loaded weight of the trailer. With my 2700 lb aluminum trailer and 2500 lb car being hauled, I shoot for 600 lbs on the hitch. I bought a Sherline tongue weight scale to measure the weight. I usually just crank down the trailer jack so the foot rests on the scale and the hitch is clear of the ball to read the weight close enough. It's on Amazon for $150.
Once I found the right place to put the car in the trailer for the correct tongue weight, I marked on the floor where the tires should stop. I also have a quality electric brake controller that has an interface to the Ford dash panel. No wagging on my Ford Expedition XL (6000 lb empty and dry)!
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Cool Old Hotels
in General Discussion
Posted
You will never go hungry at the Mohonk Mountain House! Great scenery, carriage museum with Studebaker carriage, comfy places to sit and stare out at the mountains. Like the other places in this thread, not cheap.
