ArgyleEarwax

Changing gears a bit, can you repack a throwout bearing? I have the original but it sticks a bit. I completely get the grease flinging around in/on the clutch plate can be "bad" but if I repack it and wipe it down.. a lot ?

Thanks for the info Phil.

Thanks F&J, I was trying to use a Gatorade bottle with a small slit in the top, and a hole just big enough to fit over the air cleaner stud, but that ended badly. I will need to plumb the fuel tank eventually but want to try and get it to draw from a bottle near the rear axle. (Fuel line is broken there)

Hey, a quick question (I hope) will using the "air horn vent tube" allow me to fill the bowl of the Strindberg carb? I want to get it to run enough to see if the fuel pump is working or not. There is fuel in the pump bowl but not in the carb. Thanks in advance.

Good evening folks, it's been a slow grind but I finally fired the "new" 230 today. Turns out I had knocked off a plug wire which made it run rough. There is a fuel delivery problem but progress is progress. IMG_6702.MOV

Ok, So now I'm wondering the better approach. I have a standard three speed coming. However the car now has the Gyromatic. Based on nothing at all, do you think the new engine will mate to the Gyromatic (it should) or should I just keep the new engine and three speed together and have a standard shift car. The steering column doesn't seem to support the three speed pattern ( gyro shift patern).. any idea how finicky the Gyromatic was/is?

SpinneyHill< I have a Coronet, the transmission appears to have two solenoids on the passenger side. Still learning. I am more familiar with Chevy products as I once raced most of the "W" body cars. I figure a bolt comes out and goes back in the same way.

Sorry it's been so long for an update but... so after pulling the head and finding #5 at BDC and full of ick the engine debate started. Find another 230, find a v8, same manufacturer, so off script. Well while crusing Craigslist. I find a 50 wayfarer that is about to do a chassis swap. Selling the drivetrain and chassis. So I will be swapping out the anchor for a running known good engine and transmission. The rear end will make the jump as well, brake cylinder and stuff will likely make the jump as well. Too bad the wayfarer is 7 inches shorter. (Yes I have considered frame lengthening) I was finally able to get into the trunk. Lots of chrome, a Fulton sun visor(score)

So with all that being said, the new trans is a three speed. Does anyone know if that will cause a problem with the fluidrive linkages and crossmember that is there now. I'm fine with a std, just not familiar with the killer little details. Will the column shift work? (Can't be that lucky) Thanks in advance for all your insights. I do appreciate it

Sorry it's been so long for an update but... so after pulling the head and finding #5 at BDC and full of ick the engine debate started. Find another 230, find a v8, same manufacturer, so off script. Well while crusing Craigslist. I find a 50 wayfarer that is about to do a chassis swap. Selling the drivetrain and chassis. So I will be swapping out the anchor for a running known good engine and transmission. The rear end will make the jump as well, brake cylinder and stuff will likely make the jump as well. Too bad the wayfarer is 7 inches shorter. (Yes I have considered frame lengthening) I was finally able to get into the trunk. Lots of chrome, a Fulton sun visor(score)

Hello again, With much wailing and gnashing of teeth, she is home, sadly after a closer look number 5&6 plug have been out for a long time. I have taken all the plugs out and marvel oil in each. I can't get the trunk open(skin has separated) but feel like Howard Carter peeking in the trunk after taking the seat backs out. There is a majority of the chrome, a spare tire, (to which three of the original four aired up) and a Fulton sun visor with hardware? Which I was going to look for one day anyway. I can't seem to post pictures.. Have an excellent Thanksgiving.

R1, I guess I hadent thought that far ahead, you make a very good point. I am planning on using a car trailer with a winch to transport it. I am wanting to just get it out of where it is and in the garage, I really don't have the option/desire to work on it where it is. I was planning on getting some dollies to move it around the shop, I might get them sooner and use them to get it on and off the trailer.

Sorry folks I was off grid this weekend. Gary to answer your question, nothing is wrong with the original rims. I'm sure I can put tires on then without any trouble. I am (in my mind) thinking fewest number of trips to where the car is now to where it will be. Coordination with the present owner is a bit of an ordeal so rather than a trip to jack the car up, remove the wheels, leave, have new tires monuted, return to install them, then load the car and go. I was wanting to just swap and load and be done. Not exactly cost effective but potentially more convenient. By the way thanks to you all for the feedback

Well like all best laid plans, life got in the way again. I almost attempted to trailer her home but the planets failed to align. I'm going to wait until next weekend to get it. I only had a few hours and there were to many variables. Im looking for a set of rims and tires to move it around with. With the 4.25 bolt pattern it's been a little tough. There are several sites that have cross reference data but I havent found a match at the local level.

Yeah a couple of my buddies are from the buy-it, strip-it, tag-it,bag-it, sand-it, paint -it, rebuilt-it, community. Not that there is anything wrong with that but, my ADHD won't allow that. It has three pedals one is flat to the floor. So I think it has the gyro-matic (?)