DV8

Oh my goodness. I was not aware of that. I had just spoken to him on the phone toward the end of the year. Thanks for that information. Haven't checked the Riview but if anyone has any leads please feel free to reach out.

I realize this is going to be a rough search but it looks like I may need a rear bumper for a '65. I have emails out to the boneyards without much response. Not sure what the status at Rancho Riviera is but it seems to be down again. Any one have any leads on one?

I'm getting a constant oil light after warm up and am topping off the oil at least a quart a week. She's always had some typical slow drips in places but never bad enough to not be manageable from oil change to oil change. The recent and significant issue is right at the filter. The oil pump housing has always looked a mess with oil caked on all over it. I'm thinking of pulling the oil pump housing and finally replacing the gasket at the next oil change if I can. Is there anything to watch out for or be aware of when doing this? I can find info in the shop manual about inspecting and rebuilding the oil pump but not removing it. It seems fairly straight ahead to drain the pan, remove 3 bolts, done. But, I know there's a shaft and a gear that extends into the engine and I'm hesitant on messing with that without knowing more.

Save all your booster Dewey and Harmon responses for the other hundreds of threads which I've already read. I need to do a same day swap. Working or not, I'll buy it.

I hadn't thought of a recore. Looks like there are a few shops nearby that can do it and it will save me about $200 from buying a replacement from C.A.R.S. Anything anyone can recommend I look/ask for when getting it recored?

The radiator on my '65 just quit. What should I replace it with? Priorities are performance/functionality/durability. Not concerned with keeping it OEM. Shall I go aluminum? The replacement at C.A.R.S. is pricy but if that's the best option that's what I'll do.

Glad I didn't eat that much of it.

You think they're rat poison?

If it weren't for the fact that there was a pound or two of it sitting between the headliner and and the roof mostly up between the forward most listing wire and the windshield, my first guess would be: dog food but that just seems bizarre. Is this some previous owner's farkakte method of solving a windshield leak while avoiding removal of it? Mixed in with the dog food looking pellets and the insulation you see in the photo, there was also good amount of some kind of seed. I'm at a loss. 🤪

Yeah. All the new bolts got a nice dose of anti-seize, threads and shanks.

...and here's what's left of the bolt that put up such a fight. I won.

...more photos:

OK well, Riv is back together and running well again. New timing chain & gears, timing chain cover, water pump, fuel pump, alternator, AC compressor & dryer, all engine block threads re-tapped, all new bolts, related gaskets, hoses & hose clamps, timing set, idle adjusted, etc. Thanks for everyone's help!

I was unsuccessful several times in trying to rebuild this to get it to work reliably that I just sprung for a working one. This can be a pretty pricey item for one that works so if any one else wants to take a crack at it it's yours for the cost of shipping. Send me a private message with your zip code and Venmo or PayPal handle.

It looks like I can order a timing set (chain+gears) from C.A.R.S. for $170 and I can have (what looks like from photos) the exact same set from AutoZone at my door for $65. The chain alone will be about $25-$30. As stated I don't know a lot about timing chains but I do know a lot about bicycle chains and what I know is that the chains and gears wear together. I understand that keeping the same gears may not affect the timing but my hypothesis is that replacing only the chain will result in a slightly more particles of metal in the oil than normal which should all get filtered out. My thinking is: Since I have to take both gears off to replace the chain anyways I'll go with the AutoZone set and replace everything. The difference of about $40 bucks is worth peace of mind. If the C.A.R.S. set was the only option I'd lean toward just replacing the chain. Am I being rational here? Again, thanks everyone for helping me through this.

I have zero experience with timing chains and gears and you seem to have a lot but that goes against everything that I have read on the subject. In your experience that won't cause any issues?

Timing chain cover is off! Cover is shot and replacement on the way but thankfully no damage to the block. Everyone who posted was right. The stud came out of the block easily. It was the shank of the bolt that was welded to the timing chain cover. Before I start putting everything back together should I muck with the timing chain? No missing teeth as far as I can see and I tried to give an indication of how much slack is in the chain in the latter two photos.

I realized I probably don't need to remove the pulley before the balancer and I can just remove them as a unit right? 1. Where do I get (what looks like about) a 1 1/4" socket for that giant bolt in the center of the balancer? 2. Do I need to mark the position so the mark on the balancer stays at TDC or is the balancer on a fixed position on the shaft? 3. If that thing is 250 fps torqued on there how do I hold it in place to loosen the bolt? The shop manual just says: "...remove... crankshaft balancer..." 🤪

Some progress made. Still in a backwards direction but progress nonetheless. Got the water pump off. The small bolts came off easily. The large long ones put up a fight but with the penetrant/tap/repeat method I was able to get the rest out without breaking anything else. There was little to grab onto on the broken stud but not enough and what was left twisted off trying the vice grip method. The bolts that I could reach on the timing chain cover broke easily so I'm assuming the rest will. At this point I'm thinking of pulling the timing chain cover, do what I need to do to get that broken stud out, probably retap the threads and then start moving forward back to zero again. Here's my next question: looks like I need to remove the pulley wheel and the harmonic balancer before I remove the timing chain cover. Pulley wheel looks like I need to remove 6 bolts. How does one pull the harmonic balancer and is there anything I need to be aware of? It looks like one center bolt about 1 1/2". I definitely do not have a socket that size. All of your advice has been very helpful in getting this baby back together.

As for the AC condenser, part of this whole original project was to replace the compressor and dryer so the system has already been evacuated and open. If I'm pulling the radiator, pulling the condenser is an easy no brainer. Looks like I'll have to get the water pump off one way or another. The other bolt that broke was the easiest one to reach, top driver's side. It twisted off with significantly less torque than the first one. It's clearly only 1" long and terminates at the timing chain cover. Here's my next question: once I get the water pump off, let's just say the timing chain cover has to come off too. Is that just a matter of loosening all those bolts, and popping it off, cleaning it, maybe re-primer it, replace a gasket and a seal and bolt it back on (with new bolts and freshly tapped threads)?

My next plan of action will be to pull the radiator, condenser and fan to make some room and try to remove the water pump. Most of, if not all, of the 10 or 11 bolts will put up a fight coming out. I've already started the penetrant/hammer tap/repeat process on the ones I can reach but I'm expecting I'll have to drill out and rethread at least the one (now two) that are already broken. Can anyone confirm whether the one that holds the alternator mounting bracket is or isn't a 3" bolt that goes through the timing chain cover? It's the one circled in the photo. I'd love it if I could just get the water pump off, drill out any broken studs, re-tap any threads, replace the water pump if necessary (although it seemed fine) and put it all back together.

In the process of replacing a number of parts (fuel pump, alternator, AC compressor) I was removing the bracket that the alternator mounts to. It shares one bolt that fastens the water pump to the engine. It was really fighting to come out so I used the breaker bar on it and break it did. The bracket is held in place by 4 other bolts and the water pump is help in place by many too. Extracting the broken bolt without pulling the engine seems next to impossible considering how seized it was and I don't plan on pulling the engine anytime soon. I'm thinking my best option here is plugging the hole with what's left of the bolt and hope the rest of the bolts hold everything together. Does anyone have any other ideas?

I had already searched McMaster which is usually the first place I go to for this type of thing because the their search engine is far superior to any other database I'm aware of. I found a few things that probably would have worked but I'd prefer just finding some one here who had exactly what I needed and willing to throw a small quantity in the mail as a opposed to buying a bag of 100+ shipping when I only need one. I had kinda forgotten about Mr. G's because it had been a long time since I visited that sight but my memory was that the search engine was a little hit or miss. As it turns out a fellow ROA user reached out to me and it looks like I have what I need on the way to me so It looks like I'm set for now. Thanks for everyone's help.

I'm not fanatical. I just need something that will fit in the tight spot that it's in, a matching head type and something that won't foul the threads that are already there. So far I can't find anything universal at Home Depot or AutoZone parts shop. I'm sure I will eventually but time is at a premium these days.

1/4" x 3/4" sheet metal screws with a 3/8" flanged hex head. Came off the rear bumper. Some of them hold the license plate frame in place, some hold parts of the bumper in place. I'm missing one and I thought I'd just post here before I go on the search for an exact replacement. Happy to PayPal, Venmo or Cash App anyone who could take a few minutes and throw one on the mail to me.