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About drtidmore

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  • Birthday 12/04/1952
  1. FYI, the way I gradually reduced the diameter after the initial reduction using the stamped lip on the original flange as my reference was to scribe a line using an awl just inside the edge and then grind to that edge. This way I maintained the integrity of the diameter about the center of the thermostat housing. I had to do this several times as I was only take a fraction of a mm off each time, but I did not want to remove more than absolutely necessary.
  2. I just crafted and installed a 170 degree thermostat from a HyperTech Power Stat #1007. It is a dead ringer in all respects. I had to grind down the flange to 44mm but that was simple enough. There is a post on it for those interested.
  3. SUCCESS! The HyperTech Power Stat #1007 (I got mine from Summit Racing) arrived yesterday. I looked at it and going on memory I was encouraged. I did some quick measurements and realized that if I ground down the flange to the inner line of the original o-ring seat I would be close to the desired 44mm. I set about reducing the flange diameter on my bench grinder earlier this afternoon. First cut looked good, so I went ahead and drain out some antifreeze and pulled the 180 degree thermostat that I had been running. On doing a first fit, I found that I was going to have to removed a tad more diameter. I took several passes at reducing it until it just dropped into the thermostat housing like the original. I used my dremel with a fine grit sanding drum to smooth the edges until I could run my finger along without catching on any burrs. As you can see from the pics, this particular thermostat turned out to be an absolute dead ringer for the Reatta thermostat other than the larger flange. After installation and adding back in the antifreeze, I cranked the engine and at exactly 170 degrees (CRT gauges) the thermostat opened. I found that on low fans with the vehicle stationary (70 degrees ambient temp), with the AC on and the engine running about 2000 RPMs (i.e. to get it nice and hot), the engine temp climbed to the trip point (186 degrees) of my recently installed fan control mod. As soon as the fans kicked into high, the temp fell back to 170 in pretty short order. I decided to adjust the high speed trip point such that the fans now come on around 180 and return to low speed at 170. This is perfect for the tranny and the AC loves the high speed fans running. So, we NOW have a 170 degree thermostat option, assuming you don't mind doing a bit of grinding on the HyperTech thermostat. As you can see the modified thermostat vs the 180 specific fit simply could not be closer to each other. I likely will order up another HyperTech #1007 and modify it so as to have a spare.
  4. The ICM can also be the failure point when hot. Once it cools slightly, it typically will start up just fine...trust me I have had this one twice. Don't bother with BWD brand ICM, pure JUNK! Go with AC Delco if you want proven reliability. After having two BWD ICMs fail within a year, I went with the Well Vehicle Electronics (sold by AutoZone) this time around as they have an improved design over the OEM product so I decided to give them a try. I replaced my coil pack (magnavox style) and my ICM this time around BTW as if the coil(s) have ANY internal arcing, they can damage a new ICM. Also make sure your plug wires and plugs are in good shape. If your don't know the history of either, I would replace them as they are not all that expensive.
  5. Eric responded back. Turned out that the lower than expected reading on the suspect coils was a problem with Ivan's test leads. Further tested showed the coils primary coils read around .48ohms and they were all fine. As a side, the owner of the car had a junker with the same ICM and coils, so he brought them over and they were installed which fixed the issue. Still amazing that the 3800 could start and run on just 2 cylinders. Really have to give Eric major kudos for responding to my inquiry so quickly and so informatively.
  6. I totally agree and thanks for posting. very informative
  7. I was actually interested in what he found on the primary side of the coils, but the secondary testing video you posted should also be done on a coil that is suspect. I have emailed him so I will post should he respond as that info is really what the ICM is attempting to power.
  8. That is what I purchased a good 10 years ago. All the controls and the display (realtime and storage) is handled by software running on a PC as the box itself has NOTHING other than inputs and a USB connection. As I said, mine is a 2 channel version as that was all that was available at the time. This is not all that new a concept.
  9. Did he ever post what he found the primary resistance to be on the new AC Delco Coils that he intended to install? That would be good information to know. I have a two channel picoscope buried somewhere that I purchased many years ago. I had not even thought it in ages until he mentioned it and I saw it in action. Of course he was using a 4 channel version. A good scope can tell you a LOT of things you would never realize otherwise!
  10. I can't say if you need to lubricate them or not but I did not do so when I did my compressor replacement and conversion to R134a almost 4 years ago. What I did do is use R134a WITH a leak stop agent additive in the R134a. You are correct about the R134a molecule being smaller and therefore more difficult to seal. I pulled a hard vacuum on the system for 12 hours since the entire system had been opened up and then I closed off the vacuum pump and monitored for vacuum leaks. No leaks were indicated after several hours, so I moved forward with charging the system. Despite no leakdown of the purging vacuum, the initial additions of R134a managed to find leak(s) but the leak stop agent did its trick and I was able to move on and complete the charging. I have had ZERO leaks since the time of my conversion. The trick is to monitor the pressure levels on the system as you add R134 and not just depend on the amount alone as an indication of success along with how the low temp sensor is behaving (diagnostics). You want the low temp sensor to hover right around zero to 1 and not wildly swing between -2 and 9 on the highway (that is an indication of too little R134a in the system BTW). It may take several adjustments in the amount of R134a to get an ideal charge but it is possible using the AC low temp sensor alone.
  11. Ronnie, Yes, I am aware of the issue you bring up and that is one of my concerns. What I won't know until I have it in my hands is if there is room to shave roughly 3/16 (3/8 total reduction in diameter) off the flange without mechanically weakening where the lower section and flange are joined. Another concern is the effective diameter of the lower section support arms. I have found that the height above the flange should work as it is .67" where the OEM fit for the Reatta is .91". I have not been able to find hard numbers to determine if the extension below the flange is more that the OEM allowed .91 (yes OEM design is same above and below the flange). This is one of those situations where not a lot of cash or effort is involved, so I am going to see what can be done.
  12. The thought of trimming it has crossed my mind. I intend to investigate if there is any way to make it work, so I have not given up entirely. The one I have inbound from Summit IS the HyperTech that you referenced. It won't fit as designed due to the fact that the seating lip on Hyperstat is too large and I question, even if trimmed down, if the support arms for the lower section are NOT too wide as well. It took me a lot of searching around before I finally found hard dimensional specs and that was when I immediately realized the problem. Again, I am going to see if there is a way to modify the Hyperstat to fit, but I have my doubts Here are pics of both types and you can see the difference.
  13. While waiting for the 170 degree thermostat to actually arrive, I have been doing some more cross referencing and I pretty well now know that it will not fit even though it is the correct one for the '84-'85 3800 Grand National. Finally was able to find physical measurements and it is the old standard size not the slim-type used on our Reatta. At least the cost was fairly trivial and it was worth the shot. Looks like we are stuck with either 160, 180 or 195 thermostats.
  14. Ronnie, My '89 also allows the converter to lock above 45 mph once the engine passes 145+/- degrees and the emissions go into close loop around 160 degrees so it would appear that at least 88 & 89 were setup with the same parameters for those items. I have had the opportunity to take some infrared (gun type thermometer with dual beam laser to ensure proper focal length distance) measurements and it confirms that we really have NOTHING to worry about regarding the oil collecting moisture with a lower temp thermostat. With the engine coolant at 180 (i.e. thermostat cycling the antifreeze flow) and verified by measuring the temp at the top of the thermostat housing, the oil at the end of the dip stick measured 235-240 degree which will obviously boil off any moisture. At least initially I will leave my fan control setting alone at 185on/176off after I install the new thermostat but I likely will tweak it downward a tad to around 180on/170off depending on how the engine behaves running at 170 degrees. The 170 degree thermostat has shipped from Summit Racing, so I should be able to determine if we have a new option within the next week or so.
  15. Here is what they list as the active ingredients on the Killem Active Ingredients: Diethylene glycol monomethyl ether -86% 2-(Thiocyanomethylthio) benzothiazole - 2.5% Methylene bis (thiocyanate) - 2.5% Inert Ingredients