Tacoma Posted May 28, 2007 Share Posted May 28, 2007 Getting ready to clean my engine compartment. Any recommendations as to what products to use (or not use) and precautions to take. Thanx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Kitskaboodle Posted May 29, 2007 Share Posted May 29, 2007 Simple Green, rags and toothbrushes for most engine compartment stuff. (and hand labor) <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />Use your favorite "protectant" for all rubber parts. Do not use engine degreaser. Why? Well, not because of the degreaser itselfbut rather because of the hose spraying that comes after it. You're only inviting waterto get into electrical connectors, switches, etc... Oh, and dont forget to wipe down the underside of the hood.Kit / 90 Coupe / 86 Fiero GT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vincent Vega Posted May 29, 2007 Share Posted May 29, 2007 Simple GreenCheapy 50 cent paint brushTooth brushRags Foil to cover sensitive electronics and Intake.I like to remove the air cleaner snorkel and plastic coversI use a very low stream of water to wet everything down.Spray liberally with simple green one area at a time.Using tooth brushes, rags, and paint brush clean everythingRinse with a very low stream of waterWhen done I use a compressed air to blow the water out of all the nooks and crannies.I like to use Stoner's trim cleaner on the black plastic. It reallygives it a good finish as opposed to simple green.Top it off with Stoner'sTrim shine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tacoma Posted May 29, 2007 Author Share Posted May 29, 2007 Thanks Guy'sSounds like good advise to me. The foil was something I would not have thought of. PS: Craig. The Tape came last week. Still trying to figure out how to get the consul and shifter apart. The tape looks like a good replacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Flash Posted May 29, 2007 Share Posted May 29, 2007 Without knowing exactly the degree of grime in your engine bay, it is difficult to give specific recommendations. The simple green suggestions is one avenue. Another option that I and many car show detailers use, is to spray the engine bay with ArmorAll. It lifts the dirt off. A simple mist spray with the garden hose then rinses the dust etc. A follow up detail spray then places a sheen and protective coating on the hoses, plastic, etc. Wiping down the engine bay after each car wash helps maintain the job so that it does not morph into a major clean job. I typically do the engine last, after drying the door frames, trunk lid, wheels and hood. I use ArmorAll on the wheel wells also. 303 Protectorant goes on all weatherstripping, and interior leather/plastic. Maintained an '88 through 18 years of daily driving (including salty winters) with this method. After you do the Simple Green route, try the ArmorAll maintainence plan. I think you will find it rewarding. It will look great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest F14CRAZY Posted May 30, 2007 Share Posted May 30, 2007 Don't hold me liable, but I've power washed my engine a number of times and haven't had any issues come up afterward Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney Eaton Posted May 30, 2007 Share Posted May 30, 2007 I agree with all the above. However, if you are getting ready to enter you car in something like the Buick national meet, I would remove some things so you can get to the tough places. Example, take out the battery so you can clean around and under it. That is also a good time to touch up any paint that is damaged by battery acid etc.Remove the air cleaner, and accordian connection so it can be cleaned off the car. This also allows you to get to the tight areas around the air cleaner that cannot be cleaned with it in place.Some aluminum parts on the Reatta will get a grey-white surface that needs to be removed, this is common on the altenator, a kitchen scouring pad (plastic), vacumn cleaner, and elbow grease will make them like new.Look for rusty part....many parts on the Reatta were not painted and can be rusty. If they don't get hot, knock off the rust with sand paper or the scouring pad, then spray with no gloss clear paint. One item that can be overlooked is the center of the water pump. It is unpainted steel, to do this properly, the belt needs to be removed, the pulley taken off the water pump, the center sanded and clear coated. Once done it will last for years. This is also very simple to do if you are changing the water pump...clear coat it before installing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tacoma Posted May 30, 2007 Author Share Posted May 30, 2007 Barney and OthersThanks for all the cleaning tip's. And Yes. I am getting ready for the BCA here in Seattle. I have a long way to go though. I took the car into the shop yesterday to have gaskets replaced. Oil Pan,Trani,Intake and Valve cover. Next will be the engine detailing. Having a small dent repaired,Some exterior painting on the cowling and then removing rock chips. Detailing the interior and exterior will be last. I will also be replacing both front and rear bumper rub strips.This will be a first for me as a BCA member. I have never showed a car before and mostly look forward to meeting many of the folks from the BCA and especially the Reatta Division. See you in Sleepless Seattle. I was raised in Southern Calif but the army deemed it proper to send me to basic training at Fort Lewis WA after high school in September of 1956. I swore I would never come back here.... So much for swearing. It really is very beautiful country here. Look forward to meeting everyone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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