front end rebuild kit

[Larrys442]

I'm pretty sure my '68 442 needs a front end suspension and steering rebuild. Mostly, when you hit the brakes it will jump all over the road. Usually a hard pull to the left, sometimes right. It seems to track pretty well when just going, but it's very unstable when you brake and is significantly worse when you hit the brakes hard.

So, as a novice mechanic I'm tempted to try to replace the worn parts myself but need some encouragement.

I also need some recommendations about what parts kit to use. I've checked the internet and see that several companies are selling "complete" rebuild kits; although some kits are more complete than others. Some include inner and outer tie rod ends, some don't. some include the idler arm, others don't. I want to replace everything the car needs to be safe and stable, but don't really trust myself to know what does and does not need replacing. A discussion of the rebuild in a Chevelle in Popular Hot Rodding Magazine included changing to Totally Tubular control arms with a kit from Classic Performance Products at a total price of about $1200. But they were racing; I'm a weekend driver.

Here's the question: What kit or kit companies do you guys recommend for quality and completeness? and are there other parts that I should be looking for that are not included in the kit?

[vegasdelta]

From your description, it sounds as if the problem is more w/ the brakes. Check the front shoes/pads & drums/rotors for wear, adjustment & round.

Kanter & Fusick are good sources for brake & front end parts. Good luck.

[Larrys442]

actually, I went there first...it has new drums and shoes and a complete brake system check. The bushings are shot.

[Tim72]

Hi,

I went with Moog for my front end on my 72. I have pulled my motor fro rebuild which makes things a little easier to get at. The cost is about $600 complete including new springs for Moog. Good luck

tmmi72

[gmoney]

Larry; The chasis for 68 through 72 "A" bodies are all the same. The only bushings I believe are the grommets that support the anti-sway bar. The first thing to do is have a complete front end inspection done by a reputable repair shop. They can tell you if you have worn tie rod ends, worn ball joints, a worn pittman arm or a worn drag link. Any of or a combination of these will cause your car to wander when the brakes are applied. Ckeck the front and rear shocks. Are they wet with oil (leaking), old as dirt, push down on a corner of the car with all tour weight. Does the car bounce more than once or twice? (Depending on how big you are.) New shocks are cheap and make a huge differance. All parts are readily available from local parts stores. Stay with major names like Moog or TRW, catalog companies are great for hard to find things, but are expensive. GM "A" bodies are plentiful for thier age, so parts stores carry everything for the chasis. Do not forget to finish with a new front end alignment for a great driving car. let us know how this works out. Mike

[joe_padavano]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Larry; The chasis for 68 through 72 "A" bodies are all the same. The only bushings I believe are the grommets that support the anti-sway bar... </div></div>

Actually, "bushings" typically refers to the rubber bushings at the inboard end of the upper and lower control arms. These deteriorate over time, leading to squeaking and loose handling. You'll need to remove the control arms to replace the bushings and ball joints, which requires removing the front springs. There's a lot of stored energy in the springs, so use a quality spring compressor. Bushing replacement requires a press or at least some special tools. Get a factory service manual to fully understand the process if you plan to do it yourself. One trick on reassembly is to be sure that the weight of the car is on the suspension before torquing the bolts that go through these bushings. That locks the rubber in at a specific control arm orientation. If you torque the bolts with the car on jackstands, the control arms will be locked in at the "drooped" position, causing the front end to sit too high when you're done.