Brake problems

[Jhellman]

90 coupe, 68k miles. Flushed brake system 40 days ago.<P>On start up in morning for 1 or 2 braking the car pulls slightly to left. This has occurred about 3 times. Rest of day ok. No other problems noted.<P>The Reatta brake test results:<BR>Test 1. Average = 10. Mine = 1 for yellow, 2 for red.<BR>Test 2. Average = 28. Mine = 25.<BR>Test 3. Average = 32. Mine = 45 (Red and Yellow the same).<BR>Test 4. Average = 45-50. Mine 48<BR>Test 5. Average = 2.5 to 3. Mine = 1.<BR>Test 6. Average = .5 inch. Mine = .75 inch.<P>With ignition on - applying brake slightly causes the pump to come on for about 2-4 seconds.(Pump sound like it builds up pressure)<P>With the ignition on, applying brake hard will cause yellow ABS light to come on and it will go out in about a second. Pump runs for about 2-4 seconds.<P>I suspect I need a an accumulator and what else??<P>Would I be better off to convert to a non ABS system as Skip and Coop did? <BR>Or buy a rebuilt system from Prior? Or repair the present system?<P>Any advice/suggestions would be appreciated.<BR>Thanks.<P>

[Guest]

To Me the last thing I would do is repair Your present system. I went there and I have read of few Who also have and were sucessful.<BR> Pulling can be caused by things other than the abs unit. . Hoses bad or pads or calipers can cause pulling. A low tire can also cause it.Make sure You know why it is pulling.If all 4 wheels are in good shape then I would lean towards the abs<BR> I am VERY happy with My non ABS Reatta but it did take some work. If You have the tools and skills to do it I think it is great. If not then I also believe that using a Prior rebult ABS and flushing the system very thouroughly would be the best.

[Guest wally888]

All point to bad Accumulator. Test 6 may become a better indicator than the other tests.<BR> I have encountered all the same symtoms on 2 , 89's.<BR> In each case I replaced the Accumulator, throughly flushed the system, installed new relays, checked for codes at ALDL and inspected hoses, etc. Afterwards, they had good figures on the Tests, antilock worked great and they stopped straight.<BR> Both cars have been trouble free since. One for 2 years/10k(probably more, I sold), the other, a year and 7k.<BR> If you have a pulling problem not caused by the unit, you will still have it after installing a new or refurbished unit.<BR> All that said, sudden failure sometimes happens to systems that appear to be in great condition and we only hear about failed systems. Owners who have installed a unit from Prior seem to be happy.

[Guest]

Go with the prior system. My dad and i replaced ours in about an hour. People are great to work with. works great

[Guest]

What's involved with replacing the accumulator? How hard of a job is it?

[padgett]

a) replacing accumulator is about the same difficulty as replacing an oil filter - spins on/off.<BR>- make sure to pump 25 times as on the sticker or will spray brake fluid when removed.<BR>- be gentle when lifting off - there is a metal thingie that extends up into the accumulator & must clear before rotating out.<BR>- I had just enough room on mine to R&R without removing the brace above/behind it.<P> when pulling to one side, always check the *other* caliper first (pulls left, check right caliper). A bit of corrosion around the piston will cause but often replacing the pads will fix. When replacing pads, replace both sides.<P>c) would like to hear from people making the "thump" test. Turn key on, wait for lights to go off. Turn key off and press moderate-hard on brake. Turn key on and a few seconds later should feel a "thump" in the pedal as the master valve cycles. Anyone <B><I>NOT</I></B> feel the thump ?<P>ps regular was 97.9 at the pump this afternoon.<p>[ 11-19-2001: Message edited by: padgett ]