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Battery Life/replacement sources


Guest 49packard

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Guest imported_49packard

I put this in the tech section also-I fired up the 49 Packard the other day-I found the battery to be failing. It would not charge above about 50%. The battery is about 4 years old. What is "normal" life? Also as a result I am in the market for a group 2e I think battery. Where is a good source-I found a couple of names in Hemmings-I did call Napa after the "who makes Packards"-I was told they did not have them.

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I have eight "collector" cars and they do not get used much. I charge the batteries about once per month with an external charger. If I get three years out a battery in this type of serice I consider myself lucky. I have just given up and replace them every three years whether they test good or bad. I have also given up on the expensive "vintage" look batteries--too much money. I have yet to try the Optima batteries but plan on doing that on one car this year.

I tried trickle charges, but I think they reduced battery life, so I quite uising them.

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Guest imported_Speedster

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> I have yet to try the Optima batteries but plan on doing that on one car this year. </div></div>

Optima batteries are Great. (I now have 6 of them) As long as you don't let them completely discharge. Someone on this forum had warned me about that and I experienced it first hand recently. The alternator on my 1-ton Truck had a shorted internal regulator that was constantly drawing about 3 amps current. I didn't realize it until my poor Optima was a Goner, after about a week of being discharged. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" />

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Get yourself and Optima, if you must have the vintage look buy one of those replica "OEM looking" batteries, use it, it will die in two years, when it does responsibly neutralize and drain the acid, gut it from the bottom and put an Optima inside. regardless of what battery you use get a Cole-Hersee battery disconnect switch #2484-16 (http://www.colehersee.com/catalog_top/index.htm) and use it to disconnect power from the car when ever you are not driving it. The Optima batteries put out beaucoup (pron. "Boo-Coo" if you are from Texas)

cold cranking amps, especially in the 6V models. The six volt batteries we have commonly available to us today are made (mostly) for material handling and agicultural equipment and have marginal CCA for automobile use.

always use a braided ground strap if your vehicle came with one (most Packards did)

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Guest imported_Speedster

'BeauCoup' ???

Is that Sorta like a Chicken-Coup ? <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

'Optimas Rule'! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

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I have a 3EH size battery in my Packard which is slightly wider (approx. 1/4") and longer (approx. 1/2") than the 2E but still fits the tray and top bracket. It is rated at 1050CA and 850CCA. It is made by/for? Prairie Battery, a Canadian company. I might put an Optima in the case, as suggested by Mr. Pushbutten, when it finally dies but for now it is plenty powerful enough to swing the old 356.

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Guest imported_49packard

What is the going price for a 6v Optima battery? Also who sells the cases? I am not too thrilled about screwing around with battery acid.

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Guest imported_Speedster

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What is the going price for a 6v Optima battery? </div></div>

They're usually about $95. but check this one out:

If his reserve is too high, there should be others on eBay or most parts stores can order them if they don't have them in stock.

http://cgi.ebay.com/6-Volt-Optima-Red-To...1QQcmdZViewItem

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What is the going price for a 6v Optima battery? Also who sells the cases? I am not too thrilled about screwing around with battery acid. </div></div>

The last one I bought (about 18 months ago) was $109 from the local Interstate Battery Distributor. If you have an Interstate jobber (not retailer) in your area check there first.

The guy selling on eBay wants $44 just for shipping <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" />?.that?s nuts!

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Guest imported_Speedster

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The guy selling on eBay wants $44 just for shipping <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" />?.that?s nuts! </div></div>

I agree, That's too much, I didn't see that. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" />

This is the type battery switch I add to all my cars that I've restored or built. (usually the non-locking type in center):

I think this is the same one mrpushbutton suggested in above post.

I already have one on the 645.

(I've never had one fail)

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Produ...=battery+switch

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Guest imported_49packard

That is not too bad-considering a group 2e battery local is 130+tax. Any idea how long they last? How about a case someone not too long ago mentioned cases for these things.

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Guest imported_Speedster

My oldest 12.volt Red-top Optima is about 6 years old and still goin' strong. The biggest advantage, for cars that don't get driven very often, is that they can set for a long time without discharging, unlike original type lead-acid that can discharge with nothing connected.

The 6.volt Optimas, tho small in size, are just as powerful and reliable as the 12.volts. You can put 2 of the 6.volts in the same space as needed for 1 of the original type 6.volt batteries.

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Guest Randy Berger

I'm confused. The Optima site says:

Plate Design: High purity lead-tin alloy.

Wound cell configuration utilizing proprietary SPIRALCELL® technology.

Electrolyte: Sulfuric acid, H2SO

Aint that lead-acid??

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Guest imported_Speedster

It's been awhile since I've read the technical specs on them, but if I remember correctly, instead of the Acid being in liquid form, it's in a gel form that doesn't produce the gases produced by liquid sulfuric. Therefore no venting is needed in the case, so it's a completely sealed case. And of course the plates are spiral wound instead of flat plates in the old battery design. Yes they are both lead-acid, but for some reason they never refer to Optimas as being lead-acid technology, like the old ones. I suppose it's just to clearify which design you're talking about.

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I know people that have gotten seven years out of an Optima battery, a much better service life (almost twice as long) than most occasional-use "wet" batteries. Yes, it's more money up front, but the higher CCA and life more than offset that cost.

49Packard--If you don't want to mess with battery acid, there is a product called the "tar topper" an ABS molded plastic "decoy" shell that gives the appearance of an old-time battery to put over the Optima. AACA judging will deduct for it (as they will for an "undressed" Optima) but for day-to-day use, reliability and enjoyment you can't beat the Optima.

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Guest Randy Berger

Do they provide a terminal extension so that the two terminals appear in the proper place? The Optimas I've seen have the posts much more toward the center than my old group 60 or 27.

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Guest imported_Speedster

I would call the Tartopper a 10 foot Look-alike, any closer than that and you can tell it's not Real. I have one on my '56 and it's okay, but I had trouble keeping the 3-sided side cover in place. It comes with a little double-sided tape to hold in on, but that didn't last long, so I had to use some black tape to hold it in place.

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Guest imported_49packard

Do you remember about how much the 6v 2e was?-TSC I called cannot seem to find the price and Nashville is Co HQ---

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Guest imported_Speedster

Has anyone tried the Yellow-top Optima batteries, I've only used the Red-top?

I'm wondering if there is really enough difference in them to justify the increased cost of the yellow ones? I've been told, by someone that used one in his boat, that the Blue-top ones Won't die as easy as the Red-tops, if completely discharged? But it may have been that he Didn't Really Completely discharge it.

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From my experiences the Yellow Top works good in situations where you are going to be running the accessories (Stereo, etc) for a long time with the car off. Also they are deep cycle, so you can discharge themn down pretty low and charge them back up over and over without killing the battery.

The Red-Tops are not really built to handle that type of cycling, and that is why they (Red Tops) are refered to as starter batteries.

I belive the Red-Tops may have a better CCA rating then the Yellows.

I used a Yellow Top in my Honda show car/daily driver for years. But I have had two of them fail on me.

For a daily driver that is going to be used all the time, and you are not planning on running a stereo with the car off, then I would stick to a Red-Top.

If your car is going to be stored a long time, and only driven a few times a year, or you are going to be playing the stereo with the car off, then go with the Yellow Top.

The Yellow Top (IMHO) appears to have a shorter life span when you are using them as your daily driver primary starter battery. But they work great as a 2nd battery for powering accessories. The Red Tops appear to be a better battery for handling the high amp load that the starter motor pulls, and can do this day after day, year after year. For some reason the Yellow Top works fine also, but has a shorter life span when used day after day as the starter battery. This is based upon my own experinces, and other people I know that used both the Red and Yellow top versions.

I like to hear if other people have had different experiences with them.

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Guest imported_Speedster

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> For some reason the Yellow Top works fine also, but has a shorter life span when used day after day as the starter battery. </div></div>

That Really Surprizes me. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" />

Do you have a Very high current output type Alternator on the Honda?

I wonder if they are getting Over charged?

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No I was using the stock alternator. Dont get me wrong, I think either battery will still out perform a normal style car battery.

I did confirm my statement about the CCA rating being better on the Red Tops:

starter.RowPar.0005.ContentPar.0001.ColumnPar.0001.Image.0.0.gif

Here is the link to Optima's Offical Automotive Website is anyone wants to read more on either battery:

http://www.optimabatteries.com/publish/optima/americas0/en/config/product_info/automotive.html

ONE MORE THING...I forgot to mention is that the replacement warranty on the Yellow Tops is 12 months, while the Red Tops are 36 month. (According to the Optima Website)

This is why I use the Red-Ones in the daily drivers.

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My car has the long, thin correct style battery from Interstate. Most importantly it has 875 CCA!! Its about as much as the Optima on my 96 El Dorado. My 1st Optima lasted about 1 week before I had to change it out. Exact same thing happened to a guy I talked to who got a 6v Optima for his 51. So far both of our 2nd batteries are OK. If you get an Optima get a red top. The yellow top is menat for deep discharge like folks with power hungry stereos and monitors -as seen on Pimp My Ride! If you use it in daily activities its akin to Ni-cads in small electronic devices which do not perform or live as long being recharged regularly before being deeply discharged.

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