Guest box Posted January 16, 2007 Share Posted January 16, 2007 I will installing body to fram for the last time {Ihope} What should be used for rubber body mounts?How thick should thay be and of what material and hardness?Kurt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom M Posted January 16, 2007 Share Posted January 16, 2007 I was in the need of the same thing you are looking for I talked to my bother-in-law who does heavy machine repair and he was able to get me different thicknesses of rubber gaskets that they use for sealing pressure vessels, printing presses etc.I asked the same question also Rubber mount Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JT Posted January 17, 2007 Share Posted January 17, 2007 You might find some here,http://www.restorationspecialties.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Mitchell Posted January 17, 2007 Share Posted January 17, 2007 The rubber isn't just plain rubber, it is probably reinforced with fabric or cording, and is more like belting or may look like it is cut from the side wall of a tire. Plain rubber will crush too much and make it hard for you to keep your door/body alignment correct. Good luck! Dave Mitchell packard12s@hotmail.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom M Posted January 17, 2007 Share Posted January 17, 2007 Hi Dave,When I started my frame on/off restoration, I found that they used wooden shims to do the alignment. I wonder has anyone else found that on their cars?Could we use wooden shims again or should we use reinforce rubber? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Speedster Posted January 17, 2007 Share Posted January 17, 2007 On the 645 I used wedge shaped wooden shims to get everthing in alignment, to determine how thick the rubber shims needed to be. Then cut slotted squares from tire walls, stacked them to slightly thicker than actually needed, then tightened down bolts onto rubber shims to compress them to tighten back down onto wood shims. I left 1 wood shim per side, in the middle, below B-post, for extra support. I'll see how that works, may have to remove the wood shim, later tho? Since I now have the top on and completely attached, I should be able to remove the wood shims with no problem. This car didn't even have a floor when I got it, the wooden wedges were something I thought up, to get the job done, since I had a lot of good Ash wood scrape left over from making the floor. I've Not found any original wooden wedges in any of my other cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest box Posted January 17, 2007 Share Posted January 17, 2007 Thanks you guys you are a great help !!!!Kurt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Mitchell Posted January 19, 2007 Share Posted January 19, 2007 I haven't seen or used any wooden shims. I am not saying that Packard never used them, but I haven't seen any on cars I have been around. I am working on a 734 speedster now, which is the closest thing to the 31 and 32 cars you are talking about, and it has the reinforced type of rubber that they also used in the late 30s and early 40s. The reinforced rubber actually works well as it doesn't really compress much at all, so you don't have to compensate for that, and you can tighten it down without just smashing it. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Restorer32 Posted January 19, 2007 Share Posted January 19, 2007 I agree with Dave. I've never seen wooden shims that weren't insulated from the frame with reinforced rubber blocks. Conveyor belting works well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest box Posted January 19, 2007 Share Posted January 19, 2007 Found conveyor belting by the foot at http://mcmaster-carr.com/Kurt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Restorer32 Posted January 19, 2007 Share Posted January 19, 2007 That's where we buy it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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